suprasport

how much are we talking about chris/anyone ?

i'll wake up from this nightmare soon f**k happy new f*********g year

with you now, yes do change oil every 6 months at longest, i know the smell you mean but definately petrol or exhaust fumes smell. not sure myself about the other part, hoping someone will step in with an answer found this somewhere on net

thanks for reply steve, only just changed oil though mate, done less than 150 miles, just been looking on the net and i am concerned now that it is piston, stem seals etc. never really got into engine internals so not sure, but wouldn't problems like that show up on compression test?? the tapping i have always had so not to concerned unless its related. just seems to be noticeable more, i have done a lot of work on car (5 weeks worth) and its starting to p*ss me off now. wanted it perfect to top it off some bas**rds have ran into it once at the back and today down the side, didn't see either ah well..

right gonna list the problems then hopefully someone will give an opinion. going to see chris wilson eventually but might not be for a few weeks yet. they may or may not be related engine has overheated twice through airlock but that is sorted now 1] losing water through expansion tank dripping, heating/cooling is fine, maybe juat rad cap [already ordered] 2] tapping/ticking noise from top of engine, only cold/cool, when turned over, goes when warmed up, or revved. used 10w 40 fully synthetic also noticed very small amounts of black specs [not gritty] in top but could be some muck got in whilst doing all the work 3] very very strong smell of either exhaust gases or petrol from oil filler cap, can't tell which the smell is because it is so strong it burns my nose there is a small leak on decat that i need to sort, and hard to say but maybe a small hiss on inlet manifold area, but could be anything very faint so hard to hear properly, but apart from that there is nothing obviously wrong. compression test was good. new parts ignition wise, plugs clean. done all the searches i can think of but found nothing relating to these problems anybody got any ideas from the above especially the smell from oil cap :help:

surely someone knows

would a faulty rad cap cause this.??

thanks mate not losing water other than through the expansion tank overflow, weird thing is though its not overflowing as such was only 1/4 full earlier, but still dripping out. can anyone explain please ??

they do get hot eventually, but takes a while, think it might be worth dropping all the water and starting again, with a flush as well, just wanted to check there was nothing more sinister happening:devil:

i recently had an airlock which i seem to have sorted in respect of overheating etc. temp is good heaters are fine. but i am losing water, so i topped up took it for a short spin. when i got back heaters were nice and warm, temp was showing half way as normal. But overflow on expansion tank was dripping quite heavy, with cold water, rear hoses were hot top hose from rad, and the rad were just off cold. any ideas what is causing this. have noticed there is a fair bit of steam even at running temp after 15 min drive still coming out of exhaust. is this just the weather at mo. also noticed a tiny pinkish blob in water out of rad that felt slightly oily. is that just a bit of muck got in, oil cap and dipstick are clean, compression test was good. any ideas if this is something serious, or have i still got air lock or blockage in water system, starting to lose enjoyment at mo.

the first camera (link) is the same spec as my cameras, cannot take photo at mo but will asap, but rest assured myself and my friends were amazed at the quality. cannot be sure about these but look the same and same spec apart from no audio. mine is not waterproof but where i have put it is dry from back and sealed with a cap at front so no issues as yet, maybe the waterproof ones are not as good quality because of the protection over them (don't know) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/P1-High-Quality-Mini-Wire-Security-CCTV-Color-Camera_W0QQitemZ6025063171QQcategoryZ20589QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/P13-New-Wire-Security-CCTV-Color-Camera-High-Quality_W0QQitemZ6025063157QQcategoryZ20589QQcmdZViewItem or they have both these cameras at http://www.flyonthewall.uk.com/ also some small lcd monitors one problem i had with monitors was visibility, bought a liliput originally but was very bad for glare, so went for gain. supposedly the best. much clearer. so be aware it is not just the quality of the camera that counts. i don't know if any of this helps but if your not going down the pc route i have no experience with any other systems in that price range allthough you may like to try something like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAR-REVERSING-PARKING-4-SENSOR-SENSORS-AID-HT348-NEW-UK_W0QQitemZ8025441053QQcategoryZ75330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem or this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LCD-Display-4-Sensor-Car-Reversing-Parking-Radar_W0QQitemZ5847105821QQcategoryZ14935QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem good look and keep us informed, if you do decide to go for pc let me know, but you are looking minimum £700 for anything descent btw. take a look at this site http://www.digital-car.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=1400&highlight=rear+camera hope this helps you out and doesn't blow your head with decisions

just a very quick one to say i will do some research for you and post tomorrow, the camera i got from hk is excellent quality but only risked £11

well i have the foam if you want it, no good to me, but thats all from the list i'm afraid

car has been running very lumpy done all the simple things, including compression test, still lumpy so used the 10k boost as last resort, now runs perfect apart from a little ticking noise that i am trying to sort, but not related. So yes it does work, tried and tested

brand new plugs, leads, dis cap, rotor arm, timing belt, ticking stops as soon as i go above or below 1100 rpm. its prob all in my head and worrying about nothing, but was scared of bhg last night, and that engine had overheated etc. but compression is ok, plugs are clean, didn't really expect decoke to work as plugs were very good, but it did.

n/a matey, no coil packs for me

sorry this is lengthy supe was overheating due to air lock, overheated about three times, sorted the airlock out and ran really well then noticed it started missing (very lumpy) getting worse. plugs were fine, but unsure wether oil smelt of petrol or exhaust fumes and did look a bit white, but again not sure if that was due to engine being cleaned a few weeks ago or just some crap got in whilst i had been working on it. cleaned cap and it stayed clean today i have done a compression test: - crancked 5 times 1) 200 2) 195 3) 200 4) 198 5) 191 6) 197 they all rose roughly the same 150, 175, 190, 195 fuel was disconnected, fitted new plugs, reset ecu, still lumpy, so used 10k boost (decoke sprayed directly into intake) cleared it up lovely then it came back, so took it for a thrash, plenty of white smoke/stroke steam, lumpy/misfire has gone. for good i hope but there is a knock/tapping from around pulleys at 1100 rpm revs only drop to a minimum of 1000 at idle. Question (at last) have i got anything to worry about

bump

i have fleet insurance for my vans, was told by pretty much every company that it was a minimum of six vehicles, but sure one told me they could do it on 4 but they never got back to me, and had six vans anyway. fleet insurance is not cheap though costs me over 4k for any driver tpft, but there is a loophole i exploit that says i can drive any vehicle owned, hired or borrowed. best thing you can do is phone around a few that advertise fleet insurance, they all take a few days to get back to you though.

i have a full set of denso iridium ik20's, will they work ok in my n/a bpu, or will they be to cold. think its supposed to be ik16's for stock n/a, and i certainly haven't added 75-100bph

had problem with engine starting a while ago running very rich and fouling up really bad , managed to get it running ok, but just bought some 10k boost from halfords to give it a good clean out sprays directly into inlet manifold. will let you know if it does anything.

this might help.

am i missing something or where's the bodykit

we have had it on and off all day, nothing special, but just got out of house to nip out and it started only drove a mile and had to turn round, and fetch other car. to risky, very icy.

if there is no beep on start up then it is probably your proccesor. is your hd powering up.