Sorted ......Possible serious problem, with fault codes added

I was just joining the motorway when the engine warning light came on , (the one on the right of dash with the engine gearbox symbol) then suddenly the car began to lose power stuttering etc, I was only doing about 60 at the time and let off the gas to about 40, then it seemed to clear itself, drove another 10 miles home CAREFULLY with no problems, just wondered if anyone else has had this problem? the only thing I have changed lately is the greddy bov setting, from soft to hard, also a couple of weeks ago I noticed some sludge in my coolant header tank, the car runs fine with no overheating problems in fact it sometimes run a bit cooler then normal , a would say about 1/3 on the gauge instead of 1/2 way, being an auto tt bpu, i know its possible for the sludge to be auto fluid or engine oil, but cant tell because of the red coolant:( ,,,,,,,,,,,, any ideas??? PS would oil in the coolant make it run a bit cooler? just a thought.

Edited August 21, 2014 by markylee (see edit history)

There shouldnt be any sludge in your coolant

Believe me I know their shouldn't,a couple of weeks ago their was just a small amount on the filler hose that goes into the coolant, level was a little bit low at the time so the filler pipe was not actually emmersed in the water , if you know what I mean? didn't seem to be any sludge in the water itself, so have been keeping an eye on it , had no issues at all until last night, I am jus about to check engine oil and gearbox oil to see what might be causing the sludge, by reading on here I know it is possible for sludge to be on the oil filler cap that can be caused by condensation, but surely that wouldn't be possible on the collant cap , could it? , just one more thing, their was no sludge on the radiator cap at all,and the radiator was full to the brim, anyway thanks for your reply, Mark

Sounds like your thermostat is open. Shouldn't be running cool, a good whack of the engines efficiency comes from operating at the right temperature.

Thanks Scott , will check that, I bought a new one from mr t about a year ago and only done about 2k , but will check anyway.

I just remembered something, m.o.t was done about 3 months ago, and it very close to not passing the emissions test, I only have the first cat in , I have also noticed that it smells a bit fumey from the exhaust, if the first cat is failing would it cause any of the problems I am having ? would a cat failing restrict flow or would it increase it, was thinking about going full decat soon, also something I forgot to mention , just prior to the car stuttering on the motorway I was having a little play with the throttle to ckeck the sound of the bov which I had turned from soft setting to hard, so wondering if I could be having some over fuelling issue, i have just taken it for a small run and every thing seems fine, exhaust smells strong though, water... gearbox ...and engine oil seem fine.

Near MOT fail with the first cat in suggests the O2 sensor is gubbed. How is your fuel consumption?

To be honest Scott I havnt checked fuel consumption, all I know is its 22 miles to work and back, four days a week , so 88 miles which costs me £30, and thats mainly motorway, im one of those types that doesn't think about it, its not that I have too much money:( I just put £30 in and drive, not even sure how to work it out ..............not sure if I want to know!!! love the car too much to worry about how much it costs to feed it, but if you can work it out please do, just break it to me SLOWLY haha

To be honest Scott I havnt checked fuel consumption, all I know is its 22 miles to work and back, four days a week , so 88 miles which costs me £30, and thats mainly motorway, im one of those types that doesn't think about it, its not that I have too much money:( I just put £30 in and drive, not even sure how to work it out ..............not sure if I want to know!!! love the car too much to worry about how much it costs to feed it, but if you can work it out please do, just break it to me SLOWLY haha

 

 

By the sounds of it the O2 sensor is gubbed. Supra can easily hit 25mpg on the motorway (30+ isn't a far shout). £30 is approx 21L of fuel (based on 1.40 a litre, no idea what it is tbh). 21L of fuel is 4.6 gallons. 88/4.6 is 19mpg.

 

From that I'm fairly certain the O2 sensor is gone. You may have issues with your cat as well though. Overfuelling smells like fuel, a CAT on its way out generally smells like eggs.

Thank Scott, appreciate your help. could really do with local mobile supra expert near me , but don't know of any. If anyone reading this is near the Portsmouth area and needs a little cash, please reply. thanks.

Scott ,Guess what!!!! smelt rotten eggs today whilst driving on the motorway , soon after the engine symbol came on and it started to stall, but got me home in the end, googled o2 sensor failure, and it said that the engine symbol will come on followed by stalling, so to be safe I am going to buy a denso one from europarts £83 which I think is about half the price of mr t, and think the quality should be ok, if anyone thinks their no good please get back to me, also will get a front decat pipe , as my local mot tester said it will definitely pass , hes a friend so no questions asked will probably get the decat pipe from paul, but money is a bit tight at the moment, so might go down the ebay route, and again , if anyone knows of a good ebey seller please tell me,,,,many thanks,,,,,Mark

I think denso make the Mr T ones?

I would hold off on the Decat at the moment, go with the O2 sensor for now. I have no idea how a CAT reacts to over-fuelling, it may cause premature failure or it may just cause it to stink of rotten eggs. Regardless, see what effect the O2 sensor has and take it from there.

 

As above, IIRC the Denso ones are what Mr T supplies.

If the engine management light came on when driving the ecu should have stored the fault code(s) for review. Read the code(s) and post them here. If the cats started to stink of rotten eggs I would suspect the car was overfuelling badly for some reason, a failed O2 sensor is unlikely to cause this.

Chris, I have purchased a denso o2 sensor, which I was going to get anyway , can a failed cat cause overfueling? I don't have any running problems at all apart from the intermittent stall on the motorway , ticks over fine pulls like a train , reach 1 bar quite easily, in fact the strange thing is , over the few months the car has been getting louder and smelling rich also at times the boost level would go higher than ever before , for eg moderate acceleration up to 70 , I would see a boost level of about 0 .8 which was a lot higher than before and I have had the car for about 7 years, I was under the impression that if the cat was failing it would give more exhaust flow, because all the restrictive gubbins would come flying out the back, omg I have just thought of something !!! the gubbins would get stuck in my silencer,,or is this not possible? anyway if a new o2 sensor and decat doesn't sort it out I will have to look at the possibility of what chris said about overfueling, so if anyone could give me a list of overfueling causes please do, will be checking my codes shortly .

Edited August 5, 2014 by markylee (see edit history)

The cats are metal monoliths and don't break up, unlike the old ceramic ones. The smell will be because it's over fuelling for some other reason, and the cat(s) getting mad hot. I would start by looking for fault codes, is it a stock ecu? The procedure is documented on the forum and is very very easy. I doubt a new O2 sensor will fix it, if the O2 sensor fails or is tired the ecu will run a default map, richer than normal but not enough to overheat the cat(s). If anything exhaust wise breaks up it's usually the baffles in none stock back boxes, but they usually clog the exhaust and kill the boost. Get the fault codes for now.

The cats are metal monoliths and don't break up, unlike the old ceramic ones. The smell will be because it's over fuelling for some other reason, and the cat(s) getting mad hot. I would start by looking for fault codes, is it a stock ecu? The procedure is documented on the forum and is very very easy. I doubt a new O2 sensor will fix it, if the O2 sensor fails or is tired the ecu will run a default map, richer than normal but not enough to overheat the cat(s). If anything exhaust wise breaks up it's usually the baffles in none stock back boxes, but they usually clog the exhaust and kill the boost. Get the fault codes for now.

Yes Chris it has a stock ecu , and I should have said bpu ish, when I put the second decat in, new coil packs and iridium ngk plugs, this was done a few years ago, I took it for a drive and was well happy with the way it performed, so decided not to uprate the fuel pump or fcd, even though I had already bought them from ebay (hks and walbro) then read on here that they could possibly be fake if bought off ebay, so didn't have the cofidence to put them on, the only reason I am saying this is because when I am driving on the motorway at a steady 60mph when it does stall it feels like hitting a brick wall , which some on here say is a classic case of fuel cut.

My bet is the fault codes will show a MAP sensor fault, and the FCD is failing. Get the codes, if it shows a MAP sensor or over boost issue, remove the FCD and drive it for a while. With no cats, or just one cat it *MAY* hit fuel cut, so be expecting it. If overfuelling stops get a new FCD. Good luck, just a gut feeling....

chris, as I said in my last post, I didn't put the fcd on or the fuel pump, thanks very much for your help, I will be checking codes tomorrow.

Here are my fault codes...........14 and 42, I think the problem could be 14, checked the faqs guide and it said,,,,,Open or short in i.g.f curciut from ignitor at ecu anyone have any ideas?

Open or short in one or more of the wires from the igniter module to the ecu to give run time feedback.

 

See: http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h39.pdf

 

Read the IGF section below, in particular.

Edited August 6, 2014 by Chris Wilson (see edit history)

I'd also look to address code 42. Perhaps an add on speed delimiter or speedo converter is causing code 42?

Do you think this could cause my issues above chris? a couple of months ago I had an electrician sort out a problem with my radio and clock coming on, even after the car was turned off with no ignition and car locked, he said the wires behind the dash were a bit of a mess, and seems to have sorted that problem, think I will reset the ecu and read the codes again, just in case that radio problem caused the code 14, thanks for your reply,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Mark,,,,,,,,,,,,ps any idea where the igniter module is situated?

I'd also look to address code 42. Perhaps an add on speed delimiter or speedo converter is causing code 42?

 

Had this problem since I bought the car, light flashing on dash etc, been to a couple of garages to get the flashing sorted but it eventually comes back.

I would suggest code 14 is a wiring issue between the ecu pins and ignition module pins. Try removing the ecu plug and reseating it, same with igniter plug. Then it's down to wiring and connector integrity. Slight chance the igniter module is faulty. If so I have a good used one I'd sell. Even slighter chance the ecu itself is faulty. Ignore 42 for now...