Getting really concerned now :(

About 6 weeks ago I gave my friend a hand. His battery had gone flat (left headlights on) so I offered to come down and jump start it. We did this fine but when his started mine cut out. Once started up my supe ran horrible with warning lights up on the dash and black smoke coming out of the exhaust. Posted about it on here and was told to reset the ECU by removing the 2 fuses or disconnect the battery. After doing this all was fine.

2 weeks ago I was driving along and the car cut out, started it up and the above happened. Reset the ECU again and all was fine.

It has just done it again! I have removed both the fuses and disconnected the battery but the problem still remains.

Managed to get a pic so you can just see which warning lights are on, sorry for the bluriness.

Any ideas anyone?

Thanks.

Pic:

Engine light is the one on the right and the triangle is the one that tells you the fault code.

Best to check what the fault code is. Will findinfor in FAQ's

You need petrol too..

As Pig says...don't reset the ECU get the fault code.

Just tried the diagnostics with a piece of wire. In positions E1 and TE1 immobilised the car and turned the key to the 2nd position so all the ights come on the dash. The MIL light did not flash was just constant which believes me to think im doing something wrong. These are the positioned I placed the wire:

I dont know if this is the same as under the bonnet but I also tried this plug, but nothing happened:

This is right is it not?

Thanks

I just use an unfolded paperclip....but as long as you have linked E1 to TE1 (you have on the second shot...can't tell on the first) then with the ignition on pos 2 and the car de-immobillised it should work.

the second position as in the click before you start the car.

1st position just my stereo comes on

2nd all the lights on the dash come on

3rd starts the car

Will try a paperclip instead.

Yep full electrics just before you start the car.

is there any specific time I have to wait for the light to start flashing? And does it matter which diagnostics plug i use? Any other precautions either like make sure doors are shut windows up etc?

Do you place the wire inbetween the gold and silver connector or above/below. On the following pic the right light is in between the connectors, the left leg is above. Should both be in between? Sorry to sound really dumb but nothing is happening

Re-setting the ECU is not working this time round, left the battery disconnected for about 15 minutes but the problem still persists. Black smoke out of the exhaust and no power what so ever, lucky if it ticks over without cutting out

sorry mate, can't really help you but i have heard horror stories of spikes going down cables when jumpstaring another car that can do nasty things to ECUs. I wouldn't jumpstat any car with a soop.

May also just be coincidence.

hope its fixed soon!

i had the same problem with a VW. you need to check the battery voltage when the engine is running to make sure its not over charging 13/14volts is quite normal. the problem i had was that the voltage regulator in the alternator blew and it stored over six faults ranging from lamda sensors to airflow meter.

had to replace the alternator/airflow meter and faulty lamda sensor on this car. due to incorrect jumpstart by the owner.

Just been out to check again and it started fine, left it ticking over for 30 seconds if that and it cut out. Started it again and was awful.

One thing that was strange though, Just before I started it the engine light was flashing constantly (the yellow/orange one) which means nothing is wrong, leading me to start it which is was fine for afew seconds as just stated. But, when it cut out I did not get no flashes at all.

Could this problem be caused by a low battery? while it was ticking over I moved my seat foward as I had moved it back to get to the fuse box, while moving it forward though it died and wouldnt go no further even though I was not at my normal driving position (still too far back) Once the engine was off though the seat would have power again. This is quite puzzling.

Another bit to the story, just started it and was fine drove it out of my street and it cut out. Staggered back and theres a really nasty smell coming from the engine area.

Think im just gonna phone someone out of the yellow pages like a toyota specialist or something to come look at it because im getting nowhere really and the diagnostic check has a mind of its own. Will flash ok if the car starts fine but get no flashes what so ever when it cuts out.

Cheers

Just phoned some guy in the yellow pages and I think I would sooner find the problem myself than listen to him.

I gave him the symtoms and he reckons its either head gasket or piston siezure.

Getting pissed off now, 1 minute it will start and run fine the next it runs/sound like a bag.

Will try the diagnostic checker again in the morn.

You've got entirely the wrong pins in the diagnostics port under the bonnet!

From the hinge of the plastic lid side (the left) you want to connect the two x pins:

oox_o_oo_o__o

oxo___oo_o___

ooo_o_oo_o_oo

(_ is a space and o is a pin btw)

You should then key to position 2, make your your car is mobilised, and then the orange engine light (not the red ! light) should either flash constantly or start pulsing out a code as described in the FAQ...

-Ian

I get a constant flash when the car is fine. When it isnt the light just stays on, no flashes/codes at all.

The car seems to cut out at a certain temperature. I could start it now and it would be fine, leave it on idle for 5 minutes and it would cut out and idle awful if I were to restart it. If I were to let it cool down for half hour and start it it would be fine again. Is very strange.

Anymore thoughts guys? Got a mobile toyota bloke coming out to look at it tomorrow so fingers crossed he will find the problem. I hope its not drastic

Fingers crossed for you mate.

Don't know that much about the ecu side and all that but (pissing in wind here) if you have reset the ECU then that will have cleared any stored faults.

Wonder how long till it take to pick up any new faults?

pm'd

I reset the ECU but then the same thing happened again so would it not store the most recent cut out? I think it maybe more an electrical fault than mechanical because surely it would run awful all the time if it were mechanical?

Cheers

Did you jump start your mates car with your engine running by any chance?

Altho everyone seems to think this is the way to jump start another car (with your engine running) Its the worst thing you can do, its a sure fire way of wrecking you diode pack on your altenator, and maybe even your altenator itself.

So im thinking maybe your altenator is now damaged, altho not sure why that would cause them other symptoms with your car

I now know for future then, even though I wont be jump starting anymore cars. Yes my engine was running too.

When I first jump started his car and I got the poor idle etc after resetting the ECU the car was fine for around 6 weeks, now its just started playing up. One minute the car will start and run fine, the next it wont or when it does it will cut out while im driving and then run awful.

Was quite scary at first as I wasnt expecting it and doing around 30mph on a light bend but when the car cuts out the steering goes really heavy and the brakes are not as responsive either.

Toyota bloke should be here in 15 minutes i will let you know what he says later!

Cheers

Gaz

as the fault first happend straight after the jump start,have you tried another battery in your car and checked the earth connections,you may have knackered a cell in your battery,causing it to internally short out now,

funny how favours sometimes backfire(no pun intended)

funny how favours sometimes backfire(no pun intended)

lol tell me about

I have not tried another battery but I had my battery checked and it was just under 12 volts then 14.5 when engine running.

Would the battery though explain why it runs like a bag on a restart though after it has cut out?

Thanks for your help.

Gaz