SIMON LC Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 When my J-Spec TT warms up off fast idle it vibrates alot when you put her into drive and hold her on the brake.Has anyone else experianced this?My suspicions are one of the engine mountings.Just wondered weather these are a common failure part and these are the symptons you get when they do go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dini_the_owl Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 hi bud, it is quite common for the older mounts to come away inside due to the heat of the motor, some had little alloy collor to deflect the heat, some were fitted with the slightly larger mounts with different angled stantions and a different liquid inner, they look like the trd stlye mount. i had an issue with mine and it took my best part of two years to find, only found it by taking the engine out. the passenger side one was knocking when i used the brake, or reverse then used the brake, it felt like a clunk but would only do it once! and to me it felt like the drivers side one so i replaced that and it still happend.... now i know why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMON LC Posted July 17, 2007 Author Share Posted July 17, 2007 Did you fit genuine replacements,if so how much are they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 I believe this is a standard fault on facelift cars. Is yours facelift? Mine had a £1,400 autobox rebuild before they realised it was the engine mounts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 Sounds like engine mounts to me unless you have something rubbing against the body possibly. If its a facelift car its more or less definately engine mounts, we're changing loads of them nowadays! Why did Toyota change the design? Who knows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 Sounds like engine mounts to me unless you have something rubbing against the body possibly. If its a facelift car its more or less definately engine mounts, we're changing loads of them nowadays! Why did Toyota change the design? Who knows. do they always show up as a vibtration at idle? can they appear to be a suspension noise? Is there noticeably movement when physically trying to rock the engine in the bay? Basically what the best way to diagnose? Also is it a major job, labour and or parts wise? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 Normally just a vibration yes, thats the tell tale sign we've come to know. No knocking noise on any of the ones we've done. Cant remember the exact cost of the mounts, about £60 each or something. Labour should be about an hour or 2 approx. Ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 cheers for that............i have a facelift (only an NA so suspect the mounts aren't stressed as much!) so will keep an eye on them.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slow_matt Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 i get a vibration when in park feels like the engine is idling too slowly and the steering wheel wobbles, would this be it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 Engine mounts or gearbox rear mount, or exhaust system using none stock mountings. seen them all. 2 hours to do both engine mounts? Hmmmm...... I'd better eat my spinach to compete with that, I'd be looking at least double that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMON LC Posted July 17, 2007 Author Share Posted July 17, 2007 Yes mine is Facelift.Does it really take this long to change mounts?Looks like just un bolting top and bottom nuts while supporting the engine to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kieren1234 Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 It doesnt look too hard to me either, if you have got an engine crane, just undo both mounts from the bottom of the car, hoist it up untill the thread is through the hole and undo the engine side bolts, fit new one and wala. Nthing ever goes exactly to plan though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 OK, let us know how you get on then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 OK, let us know how you get on then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMON LC Posted July 18, 2007 Author Share Posted July 18, 2007 No worries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rory Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 My facelift car does this a little too ... its not too bad at the moment , I'll get it fixed if it gets worse though. Pretty annoying a big maker like Toyota could get something so basic wrong though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 They haven't "got it wrong". Liquid damped mounts have a finite life, if you had a Porsche 928 you'd be justified in saying "they got it wrong" as they eat their similar type viscous engine mounts in short order. They rarely give trouble on MKIV's, even on ultra high mileage autos, but I am seeing manuals, especially those where the owner likes burning rubber, getting to the age where the engine mounts are settled, or ruptured. We are talking of an elderly car here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMON LC Posted July 23, 2007 Author Share Posted July 23, 2007 Just changed Passengerside engine mount and yes Chris you were right,its a 2 hour job,and not a nice one at that.Anyway took her up the road and the noise is just the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 It's usually the RH side one that goes, compression rather than extension kills them. if you thought the LH one was awkward..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMON LC Posted July 23, 2007 Author Share Posted July 23, 2007 Thanx for lookin on the bright side.Is the anyway of checkin mounting before taking it of or is there not much to see till its off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 There should be at least a 50 thou inch gap between upper and lower sections of the mount. Preferably quite a bit more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMON LC Posted July 23, 2007 Author Share Posted July 23, 2007 Do you mean between the 2 metal cups that make up the outside of the mount?I asume that gap is zero once the mount is off the car and has no tension on it.The bottom cup on the one I replaced was lose and spinning round,this is what made me think it was this mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted July 24, 2007 Share Posted July 24, 2007 Just so you know we charge 2 hours labour to do both engine mounts on the Supra's, done plenty, sometimes 1.5 hours depending if there are dodgy bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMON LC Posted July 24, 2007 Author Share Posted July 24, 2007 Checked the clearance today and I could'nt even get the feeler guages in so I think that makes it conclusive.Thanx for your help Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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