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fidanza


supra dan

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My bro just put one on his ST205 GT4..... car revs more freely now (and drops revs more freely), it's combined with a 590lb/ft torque rated paddle clutch and drives just like stock, just a little rattle moving off if you don't have the revs high enough.

 

HTH,

 

Brian.

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They are a good make...but there are better like the JUN.

 

However -I would do a search on what's already been said about light flywheels especially by Darren Blake.

 

EDITED OUT ATL...forgot they do the crank pulley replacement not the friggin flywheel :stupid:

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Originally posted by ThunDeR

My bro just put one on his ST205 GT4..... car revs more freely now (and drops revs more freely), it's combined with a 590lb/ft torque rated paddle clutch and drives just like stock, just a little rattle moving off if you don't have the revs high enough.

 

HTH,

 

Brian.

 

thanks brian, any idea what make of clutch he used?

 

alex im at work so will read the thread later, thanks.

 

gaz, unfortunatly the rps is a lot more expensive also, money is tight at the mo.

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Dan, I fitted the TRD twin plate clutch and lightened flywheel, if I had to replace the clutch again I would rip out the flywheel and replace with a stock one. If money is an issue there are a lot better things than a lightened flywheel you could buy IMHO. I noticed no performance difference after the flywheel was installed, it just got a LOT noisier than it use to be.

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Lightweight, none dual mass flywheels = gearbox noise. They *MAY* reduce geartrain life, too, but probably won't. If the Fidanza is an aluminium flywheel with steel friction face, avoid like the plague. the friction plates can wap and come loose. buy a chrome molybdenum steel flywheel, much stronger and more reliable. If you buy a light flywheel then nail on a stock type very heavy clutch you may only lose a small percentage of the total inertia of the combination. Go the etra mile and fit an alloy clutch cover, or even a smaller diameter clutch. I went the full hog with my RX-7 and used a 4.5 inch triple plate clutch on a home brew flywheel, and it was less than a fifth of the weight of the stock assembly. See HERE

 

and

 

HERE

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chris, i am not really looking for a big performance gain, i replaced the clutch with an uprated one only 3000 miles ago and it is slipping again already. i really need to get this sorted properly this time as i cant afford to keep doing this. i cant afford a mega carbon clutch either, so looking for the best cost effective way to sort it once and for all

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Originally posted by supra dan

thanks brian, any idea what make of clutch he used?

 

alex im at work so will read the thread later, thanks.

 

gaz, unfortunatly the rps is a lot more expensive also, money is tight at the mo.

 

Was a Clutchmasters FX400 Dan :)

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Originally posted by supra dan

chris, i am not really looking for a big performance gain, i replaced the clutch with an uprated one only 3000 miles ago and it is slipping again already. i really need to get this sorted properly this time as i cant afford to keep doing this. i cant afford a mega carbon clutch either, so looking for the best cost effective way to sort it once and for all

 

Unless you drive like a loonie 3,000 miles out of a clutch is a sign of something very amiss. For sure, drag race starts and / or clutch slippage can kill a clutch in that distance, but Christian usage should see much longer life. I got 100,000 out of my Volvo turbo estate clutch, and it regularly tows a full size, 4 wheel car trailer and race car around.

 

Was the flywheel friction face checked for flatness and scoring? Is the plate free on the input shaft splines? I believe there may be a cause for this, unless it's just that you give clutches a really hard life.

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99% is normal fast A road driving, first time i drag raced the clutch slipped big time. had about 20 races with the old clutch which was in the car when i got it before it slipped. as for the flywheel scoring i used a scooby specialist to fit it and i like to think they would have noticed it, but its going to another garage this time and i will look at the parts my self , maybe post some pics if you wouldnt mind giving me your opinion chris. thanks for the advice, much appreciated:thumbs:

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Originally posted by TRD3000GT

Ive had a fidanza on mine.

 

Not again. I managed to live with it for 2 months. It was seriously loud on idle and sounded awfull.

Went to uprated Clutch unsprung and Toyota standard dual mass flywheel.

 

I can confirm that this drives beautifully too:thumbs:

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Gaz - you have a Carbon RPS on yours I think - what does that drives like?

 

Terry - have you got anyone with a BL kit fitted here or over there with a manual - any thoughts on a clutch to go with some big power?

 

Chris' set-up feels great - and just what I am after - however not sure it will take a big single to 500 only

 

:thumbs:

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Guest Terry S
Originally posted by Paul E

Terry - have you got anyone with a BL kit fitted here or over there with a manual - any thoughts on a clutch to go with some big power?

 

:thumbs:

 

Yes we have Paul and yes I know exactly what to use.

 

BTW I had the first Carbon/Carbon in the UK and it is an awesome piece of kit.

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Comments from a guy in the US on fitting his C/C RPS

 

After 2000 miles daily driven in 'city traffic', here are my thoughts>

1. No noise on startup, to warmup (15min) !!

2. Very noisy after 30 mins of driving even at 1000 rpm with my AEM dialed in !

3. Infamous squeal that it makes once it gets warmed up on every slip/engagement ! (J.T. says that's normal due to the CC material/composite)

4. Gets very 'grabby' after 45 mins stop and go traffic....(gets pretty tricky to slip at this point )

5. Pedal pressure is stock like...Had to re-adjust clutch rod freeplay after 500 miles !!

6. PERFORMANCE IS AWESOME UNDER EXTREME 24 psi 4th gear pulls on the freeway !!

7. Feels like it can really handle 1200 RWHP in realty !!

8. It's definately an exotic clutch that you have to live/sacrifice with for ULTIMATE PERFORMANCE !!

9. AFTER ALL THAT, I STILL GIVE IT A BIG THUMB'S UP !!

 

Mind you - for a couple of G's one would expect it to be good!

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Originally posted by Paul E

Comments from a guy in the US on fitting his C/C RPS

 

After 2000 miles daily driven in 'city traffic', here are my thoughts>

1. No noise on startup, to warmup (15min) !!

2. Very noisy after 30 mins of driving even at 1000 rpm with my AEM dialed in !

3. Infamous squeal that it makes once it gets warmed up on every slip/engagement ! (J.T. says that's normal due to the CC material/composite)

4. Gets very 'grabby' after 45 mins stop and go traffic....(gets pretty tricky to slip at this point )

5. Pedal pressure is stock like...Had to re-adjust clutch rod freeplay after 500 miles !!

6. PERFORMANCE IS AWESOME UNDER EXTREME 24 psi 4th gear pulls on the freeway !!

7. Feels like it can really handle 1200 RWHP in realty !!

8. It's definately an exotic clutch that you have to live/sacrifice with for ULTIMATE PERFORMANCE !!

9. AFTER ALL THAT, I STILL GIVE IT A BIG THUMB'S UP !!

 

Mind you - for a couple of G's one would expect it to be good!

 

There again you could allways go for the quicker option .... AUTO . The 6 speed is the HERO's choice :D

 

Dude:flame Dev

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Guest Terry S

If I had enough power to justify it, I would have the Carbon/Carbon in a heart beat again. I never found it grabby, it was almost silent with the idle raised to 1k, it was slippable, and very light. You should also remember it is rebuildable, and that the cost includes the segmented flywheel.

 

Having said all that we have found a clutch that will cope with 99% of manuals in the UK at a fraction of the cost. As always we will happily give excellent prices on RPS though.

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Originally posted by Terry S

 

Having said all that we have found a clutch that will cope with 99% of manuals in the UK at a fraction of the cost. As always we will happily give excellent prices on RPS though.

 

gonna tell us what it is then?

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Guest Terry S

Dan I would be then like everything, someone will jump on it and try and sell it. If anyone seriously is in the market for a new clutch, email me

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Dan

 

Happy to help and point out that there is a load of informed information elsewhere........

 

Check out this site via Horsepower Freaks

 

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/techarticles/clutchinstall/clutchreplacement.html

 

In this and from contacts in the states

 

RPS Max Plate with Sprung Hub 6 puck disk approx £555

 

Sprung hub design is unique.

Best option for the price range.

Holds power, easier to drive than ACT.

 

My poor opion is to get this one...

Supra Turbo 93+ 3200 lb.

Part #: MS-22170-SP

 

The blurb -

Description: MAX pressure plates offer 400 to 600 pounds of extra

clamping force to hold your biggest power. Pedal feel is stiff to very stiff and engages quick and smooth. RPS is the only clutch company with a U.S. Patent (#5,769,973) on their single diaphragm pressure plate technology. Our unique dual diaphragm technology allows us to create almost any clutch unit with any pressure ranging from stock to double stock in 100 pound increments.

Torque Cap: 825 Pressure Increase: +38%

 

I have an Exedy one at the mo (grabs like a bitch!)

 

This is quite interesting especially abut the remanufacturing of old clutch parts!

 

http://www.dialaclutch.com/clutches.htm

 

Takes a load of the myths away

 

:thumbs:

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