Sheefa Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Hi guys, Being a donkey that I am, I just went ahead and paid for this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290026048770 without asking about Supra compatibility because I assumed these could be fitted to any car with the right DAT file/mapping, right? Does this look as though it will be OK. Also, the donkey who sold it to me hasn't included a 9-pin connector with some special flashing LED light or something (Chris Wilson knows the details) and I, again being a donkey, didn't know what to check before I dropped the car off to Chris. A) Will the above fit my Supe? B) Does anyone have a spare loom or whatever the above connecting lead is? Thanks Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 You need ABS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 And it probably needs to have a digital ignition system since it interrupts the sparks.... Doesn't always need abs as you can buy the sensors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Don't worry about it Greg. I have the cable you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted December 13, 2006 Author Share Posted December 13, 2006 Car has ABS thanks guys. Thanks Pete. I'm going to try and get one through the guy who supplied the unit, Andy, and I've contacted him. Chris mentioned that it might not be the right unit for the job though as it had some weird plugs on it that he's never seen before! Appreciate you help as always Pete. Cheers, Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Good job your Supe has got ABS!.... you muppet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted December 13, 2006 Author Share Posted December 13, 2006 It wouldn't surprise me if I found out it didn't and the previous owner has just fitted an aftermarket blinking ABS light to be honest mate. The car is so nearly ready, but there just has to another snag before Xmas doesn't there!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 And it probably needs to have a digital ignition system since it interrupts the sparks.... Doesn't always need abs as you can buy the sensors. Nah, it cuts fuel not sparks normally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Nah, it cuts fuel not sparks normally. Bugger, corrected again on this one, mind you I've not ever used RLTC... Isn't cutting fuel dangerous (not commenting technical because I actually don't know this one), since it would mean the cylinder is running a little lean? I've always wondered that... EDIT : Just checked racelogic's site, and I see it can do either fuel or spark (so I was half right then I suppose).. Fuel Cut The idea of cutting fuel to an engine sets alarm bells ringing in engine builders, as they all know of the potential disaster of a high revving race engine running lean. Running in a lean combustion mode will elevate in-cylinder temperatures very rapidly, the denser the air/fuel charge, the more heat the lean burn can generate. Therefore it is vital that a fuel cut system will not cause a lean burn. The simplest way of preventing a lean burn is to remove more than 50% of the fuel from the pulsed delivery. A mixture will only ignite if the air/fuel ratio is within a tightly defined window, look at the efforts being put into making lean burn engines fire on very low air/fuel ratios (1:20 or more). Removing more than 50% of the fuel will cause an air fuel ratio of over 1:25 and will result in a complete miss-fire, with the unburned fuel passing out through the exhaust valve. Even if a high air/fuel ratio did manage to ignite, the energy available from the amount of petrol injected wouldn't be enough to elevate temperatures significantly. Of course the ideal system will remove 100% of the pulsed fuel delivery, allowing the cylinder to take a gulp of fresh air, and the in-cylinder temperature would remain virtually unaffected. Racelogic Traction Control operates in this manner - the complete injector pulse is removed so no possibility of lean burn can exist. Prolonged fuel cut on one particular cylinder would cause scavenging of the petrol lining the inlet tracts, and when the next full fuel pulse arrived, it would be partially reduced in quantity by the re-wetting of these tracts. Therefore it is often important to manage a rotation of the cylinder cutting to prevent this situation from occurring. Spark Cut Cutting the spark to an engine will stop any chances of a weak mixture occurring, but it carries it's own potential problems due to a large quantity of unburned fuel travelling through the cylinder and out of the exhaust. This petrol can remove some of the oil lining the inside of the cylinder, and pass it thorough the exhaust, again this only becomes a problem if the fuel to one particular cylinder is cut for an extended time. The best way to overcome this is to rotate the order in which the cylinders are cut. The unburned fuel in the exhaust will have a catastrophic affect if there is a catalytic converter in the exhaust, as it will try to convert the unburned fuel to harmless elements, effectively burning the mixture. This causes the catalytic converter to heat up very rapidly, reaching temperatures in excess of 1000°C, and possibly melting down completely. Thus prolonged spark cut is not recommended for catalytic equipped cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 I see it can do either fuel or spark (so I was half right then I suppose).. It just stops the injectors from firing. Greg - I've dropped the cable off with Chris tonight (any excuse for a pint) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Out of interest... Why wouldn't you run it on spark retard, especially on something like a BPU car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Out of interest... Why wouldn't you run it on spark retard, especially on something like a BPU car? That's not how RLTC works. Have a look at the install manual - http://support.mkivstore.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=viewdownload&downloaditemid=9&nav=0,6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 That's not how RLTC works. Have a look at the install manual - http://support.mkivstore.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=viewdownload&downloaditemid=9&nav=0,6 Just had a read through and it is definitely injector cut, the bit I pasted up was from the website, and I was just curious why it used rather than ignition cutting.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 Aaha... I think I may have found the reason... The magnitude of difference in reaction times between spark cut and fuel cut is negligible compared with the difference between throttle actuation and spark/fuel cut. (See fuel cut and spark cut below) I suppose as well, if you don't cut the fuel you do still run the risk of it igniting anyway and not serving a purpose... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 Just had a read through and it is definitely injector cut, the bit I pasted up was from the website, and I was just curious why it used rather than ignition cutting.. It's on their website somewhere. Here you go: The unburned fuel in the exhaust will have a catastrophic affect if there is a catalytic converter in the exhaust, as it will try to convert the unburned fuel to harmless elements, effectively burning the mixture. This causes the catalytic converter to heat up very rapidly, reaching temperatures in excess of 1000°C, and possibly melting down completely. Thus prolonged spark cut is not recommended for catalytic equipped cars. Basically it's not a great idea having unburnt fuel dumped into the exhaust, it could cause bore wash and is going to backfire. I think it's also probably more complex to make the electronics for. They do make a adaptor thingy that converts it to use spark cut if you can't use fuel cut if you don't have electronic fuel injection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted December 14, 2006 Author Share Posted December 14, 2006 Thanks Pete.Appreciate that, although surely I'll need to get hold of another one anyway, or is the lead just used to configure the unit? Here's hoping it can be sorted. Still, nobodys actually answered the question as to whether the above unit I bought CAN be installed on the Supe. Mine does have ABS. Thanks! Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 Thanks Pete.Appreciate that, although surely I'll need to get hold of another one anyway, or is the lead just used to configure the unit? It's just used to configure on the basic system but I think the digital adjuster requires it permanently in place. Still, nobodys actually answered the question as to whether the above unit I bought CAN be installed on the Supe. Mine does have ABS. Looks like it should be fine, you'll probably find out today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted December 14, 2006 Author Share Posted December 14, 2006 It's just used to configure on the basic system but I think the digital adjuster requires it permanently in place. Mine has the Digi Adjuster Pete so I'll need to source one still then. Looks like it should be fine, you'll probably find out today. That's what I'm worried about. Over the last near 3 months the following have been problems that have occurred unexpectantly! - Horrid Car Alarm Trouble - Annoying wheel nuts, lost locking adaptor - rolled under drivers carpet - Broken Crank Damper - Missing Rubber support for radiator (was in glove box) - Radiator cap didn't fit - Missing RLTC lead, possibly wrong unit. So, if something else does crop up, I wouldn't be surprised. After all, it is Christmas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 The engine runs fine, the display (now Pete has kindly loaned a lead) shows RPM correctly, and it will create a sensible misfire, so I will load a sensible programme into it tomorrow and do the calibrations for sensors. Quite what it will do once set up and the display / LED lead is disconnected I don't know. Presumably it won't work, but will hold its settings?? Anyone tried that? Don't buy any more "bargains".... Please! I'll let you know when I have it finished, but I will be amazed if I can't get it working tomorrow AM. You *COULD* ask Pete nicely if he will let you leave the lead on it, and you give him the new one at the weekend. He may say no, but it's just an idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 Don't buy any more "bargains".... Please! OMG does this mean all the work is done and Greg is about to get his Supra back?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 OMG does this mean all the work is done and Greg is about to get his Supra back?? Let's not be hasty... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 Quite what it will do once set up and the display / LED lead is disconnected I don't know. Shouldn't make any difference. That lead is only to alter settings. If you can add teh digital adjuster to a standard unit then its reasonable to assume the brain units are identical, therefore removal of this lead will make no difference. The digital adjust is basically your PC at the end of the serial cable. You *COULD* ask Pete nicely if he will let you leave the lead on it, and you give him the new one at the weekend. He may say no, but it's just an idea. I'd rather keep my own lead and calibrator to be honest. At least I know they work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 Let's not be hasty... Oops sorry Greg! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted December 15, 2006 Author Share Posted December 15, 2006 Im piseed noew but yes, maybe sundayil get it beck,. ;0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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