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Blitz Twin Turbo Installation


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As some of you may be aware I bought a Blitz twin turbo kit a couple of weeks ago and seeing as there's not many of these kit's about I thought I would do a complete step by step write up of the installation.

 

To start of with, I'll explain about the kit. The kit consists of two KKK450R turbo's, which I'm told are 61.5mm turbo's with a .73 hotside (thanks Usmann A!)*Edit* Just found some more info on these turbo's.

 

Compressor wheel inducer dia = 54.9

Compressor wheel ex dia = 76.2

Compressor housing inlet dia = 70

Compressor housing ex dia = 60

Turbine Wheel inducer dia = 64.4

Turbine wheel ex dia = 54.6

Exhaust Flange = K26

 

Taken from here:- http://www.blitz.co.jp/products/turbokit/turbo-charger.htm

 

Here's a couple of pics:-

 

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Further information about these turbo's seems to be very difficult to come by.

 

The kit also comes with exhaust manifold or header, which is a tubular steel construction. There has been much said as to wether this will, in the future crack due to the unsupported weight of the turbo's. To safe-guard against this, I'm planning to create a brace that will bolt onto a stud welded onto the manifold, and the stock brace location on the engine.

 

Lastly the kit comes with a pair of Blitz D47D wastegates. Initially these appear to be set-up to open about 1.3Bar, but there is a nut on the top which will allow some fine adjustment of this.

 

Everything else will need to be fabricated. This includes the downpipe, air inlet pipe (from air filter) and the turbo outlet pipie (to the intercooler)

One last thing that does not come with the kit, and requires to be made, is the oil feed and return lines to the turbo's, and also wastegate actuation lines (ie from the compressor housing) All of these lines I will be making myself using off the shelf aeroquip components.

 

In terms of goals, I'm aiming for a healthy 600 - 650 bhp, which will be an easy 275 - 300 bhp increase in what I currently have. I know these turbo's can create in excess of 800 bhp, however my desire for engine longevity, and a restrictive budget means that I won't be able to aim for these kind of high figures in the short to medium term.

 

As far as how I'm going about the complete installation, I'm basically breaking it down into 8 distinct stages. They are:-

 

1. Strip stock sequential turbo's.

2. Pre-fit Blitz twin turbo's.

3. Fabricate downpipe, IC pipe, turbo air inlet pipe/ turbo brace.

4. Strip Blitz twin turbo's down and send away for ceramic coating/polishing

5. Strip stock fuel system.

6. Install custom fuel system.

7. Final fit Blitz twin turbo's.

8. Engine mapping.

 

Unfortunately I don't get much time to work on the car, so am only able to work on it at the weekends. That said, I'm hoping to have the car finished in about 8 weeks.

 

So to start off with here's how to strip the stock turbo's.....

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Tools you'll need:-

 

You won't need any particular specialist tools, just a good 1/2" and 3/8" socket set with both normal and deep 12mm/14mm and 17mm sockets. A couple of 6 inch extensions wouldn't go amiss, as well as a universal joint for the 1/2" drive, a breaker bar, and a lot of WD40! A good set of spanners ranging from 10mm to 17mm, a set of axle stands and a jack would be useful too.

 

So to start off with, safety first, we'll remove the battery negative terminal:-

 

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Next you'll want to drain the coolant. I didn't do this, and regretted it later when it caught me out by surprise, so a word from the wise... do it now!

 

Next you want to disconnect both the cruise control actuator cable and tuck it out of the way:-

 

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and then do the same with the accelerator cable. I tucket it along the firewall:-

 

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Next remove the air inlet duct:-

 

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Loosen the jubliee clip around the hose from the air box to the turbo inlet and remove the hose. (It will take some jiggling to do this!)

 

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Your engine bay should now look like this:-

 

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Next undo the three bolts fixing the air box, and remove it (Not you can see the duct that feeds cold air into the air box from the bumper):-

 

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Next you'll need to get under the car. So now's a good time to jack the car up. Ensure the car's on a level base, and jack the car up using the jacking points that can be found here:-

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=44357&highlight=jacking+points

 

OK so with the car jacked up, you need to remove the catalytic convertor. To do this there's a couple of brackets and things that you need to remove to give you enough space to get the catalytic convertor out. So first of all you want to remove this brace. There's 2 bolts at the rear and 1 at the front which I had to use the breaker bar to undo:-

 

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Just above the brace, you'll find this bracket. Undo the 4 bolts and remove it:-

 

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Next you need to remove this bracket:-

 

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To get to the bolts for this bracket I had to temporarily remove both the clutch inspection covers, you can clearly see the bolt hole for the inspection cover, and the top of the bolt for the catalytic convertor bracket. There's 1 bolt on either side of the gearbox:-

 

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The last bolt for the bracket is one of the mating bolts for the cat/exhaust itself. Undo this and the bracket should now come away:-

 

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If you now undo the other bolt that's holding the cat to the exhaust, and then undo the three bolts at the top of the catalytic convertor, the car should come away fairly easily. Remember there's a catalytic convertor temp probe attached. We'll remove this in a bit. Here's a pic of the downpipe with the catalytic convertor removed. You can see the three fixings. If these are difficult to undo, use plenty of WD40 and leave overnight. Luckily, mine weren't too bad...

 

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By this point you've probably got fed up of lying under the car, so let's get out from under there and undo some stuff on the top.

The toyota manual says to remove the harness protector at this point. It says to remove two bolts, but I'll be damned if I can find the one near the drivers side. So I undid the one on the passengers side and left it at that.

 

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Now comes the bit that I found a real pain. Removing the air lines over the top of the turbo's.

First of all you need to remove the water by-pass hose, if you've not drained the coolant system yet, do it before you undo this, or get plenty of paper towels to soak up the coolant as you undo it:-

 

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Next unclip both of the connectors to the vsv's and move the loom right out of the way:-

 

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Next you need to remove the hard piping accross the top of the turbo's. IF you remove all the hoses to the VSV's and undo the 2 bolts (IIRC?) You've done the easy bit.

Now if you follow the hard piping accross the top of the turbo's towards the back of the engine you'll find 4 lines going down the back of the 2nd turbo near the bulkhead. You need to undo all 4 of these. Don't worry if you struggle because the clips are facing the wrong way or just difficult to remove, I did too! In the end I beat it by using a pair of pliers on the clip, and a screwdriver pushed up against the end of the hose, and pushing hard with the screwdriver whilst I compressed the clip with the pliers. A real pain, but once those last 4 hoses are undone you can remove the hard-piping:-

 

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Next if you remove the wastegate actuator VSV by undoing the 2 bolts and undo the hoses to the wastegate actuator which are on the front of the number 1 turbo. The grey connector attached to the bracket is for the stock narrow band o2 sensor. If you undo this from the backet by using a small flat bladed screw driver where it's clipped on:-

 

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You should end up with a bit that looks like this:-

 

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OK next if you remove the water hoses to the turbo. If you've not drained your engine coolant by now, you're about to one way or another. I strongly suggest you do it via the rad, and not by just undoing this hose. After all that would be a school boy error. :taped: :blush:

 

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Undo the other 2 hoses as well:-

 

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Next you want to remove the bolt to the upper water hose. I had to go a bit off-plan here as I had a non-stock dump-valve, so I removed that first. Anyway you can see the bolt you need to get to here. It's the blurred one in in the middle:-

 

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Next undo the vent hose:-

 

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and loosen all of the jubilee clips that you can get to on the top:-

 

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Great write-up Tony.

 

That coolant hose from the rear of the cylinder head that goes to the heater matrix is a right bugger to get off. Getting it back on is damn near impossible.

After 20mins I gave up trying to the fit the OE sprung clip back on and used a jubilee clip instead.

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Next if you undo the nuts holding the no.1 turbo inlet hose, and the bolts holding the no.1 turbo outlet hose, and the nuts to the no.2 turbo inlet hose:-

 

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Now with a large amount of wriggling the no.1 and no.2 turbo inlet pipe and the no.1 outlet pipe (and maybe an extra hand) you should be able to remove the inlet pipe. (It took me a quite a bit of wriggling, and I couldn't describe the exact way, but perservere and you'll get it!):-

 

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You're engine bay should now look like this:-

 

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Now you can go ahead and remove the rest of the turbo outlet pipes right up to the no2 turbo outlet:-

 

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Now your engine bay should look like this:-

 

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Next if you undo the four bolts holding the heat shield and remove it:-

 

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Notice how I placed paper towel into the turbo inlet's. Don't want anything getting in there and damaging them for the next potential owner ;)

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Just one for those who hadn't seen it before, but to the lower right of the turbo you can see the wastegate actuator:-

 

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OK next it's time to remove the stock 02 sensor:-

 

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This is what mine looked like after 100K miles of use:-

 

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As I'm not going to be using this sensor with the twin kit, I decided to completely remove it:-

 

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The grey connector I spoke of earlier:-

 

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O2 sensor and loom:-

 

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I may well keep the bracket, and cut the grey connector off the o2 sensor, and wire it up to my EGT probe so it will work with the stock loom.

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The next bit was as much of a pain as getting the hoses off earlier.... :(

 

Removing the Exhaust gas control valve. This sounds a very simply thing to remove. There's a bracket which has a bolt and a nut to undo, and then there's 3 bolts, and the whole assembly "should" just come away.

I spent about 10 minutes trying to get a photo of the 3 nuts. Unfortunately my digi cam is an SLR, and it's a little large for getting into tight spaces. I managed to get a picture of this nut underneath:-

 

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And you can just make out a second nut in the gloom of this pic. There was no way I could get to this bolt from underneath. The stud for the o2 sensor is just below the stud for this nut, so I couldn't use a socket, so get at it from the top use a spanner and a breaker bar to leaver the spanner to get it to budge. Not the best way to undo things but needs must:-

 

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There's a 3rd nut 120degree's around the pipe. To get this undone I used a 14mm 1/2" drive socket with a universal joing and about 9" of extension bars. It was a real pain, but it came off in the end.

Onec the bolts are undone the assembly comes apart in 2 sections:-

 

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Be careful not to drop or bang the second section if you're looking to keep the valve as apparently the valve is ceramic.

 

Here you can clearly see the bolt arrangement.

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Managed to do a little bit more this evening.....

 

The next step is to remove the turbo support brackets. There's two of them, here's a pic of the no.2 turbo stay:-

 

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and this was the best shot I could get of the number 1 turbo stay upper fixing. I had to get to this by reaching up in front of the steering rack:-

 

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No word of a lie, this is what I used to get these un-done. Really I could have done with a deep 14mm socket due to the length of the stud, but I didn't have one for 1/2"drive, and only had enough extensions for 1/2", I loosened the socket so it wasn't fully clipped onto the universal joint, and it just about managed to work:-

 

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Here's the number 1 turbo stay removed:-

 

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and number 2:-

 

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Next I removed the oil feed/return for both turbo's. This was a real pain of a job, as again I had to use a ridiculous number of extensions to get to the nuts on the bottom of the turbo. Here's where it joins onto the bottom of the number 2 turbo (the easy one to get to!):-

 

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Here's where the feed from on the engine block is. I used a 19mm socket to remove it. Make sure you put some towel under this banjo bolt as you undo it, as there was still quite a bit of oil in this pipe:-

 

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I just about managed to get this pic of the oil feed banjo bolt for the no.1 turbo. Sorry for the quality, but it's a real tight squeeze! For reference This was taken from just below and in front of where the steering column meets the steering rack:-

 

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I really struggled with removing the turbo oil feed hoses. Basically, as you can see in this pic, you need to seperate the hoses where the metal hard lines meet the rubber hose. After 13 years of being in 1 piece these were a real pain to undo, and took me some amount of time. As I'm not going to be using the oil return housing I removed that at the same time. I took a few shots of the bore diameters for reference. I'll try to remember to take a rule with me next time and get some with it in for scale reference:-

 

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Turbo inlet and return diameter:-

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Oil return housing diameter:-

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Got quite a bit done today.

 

Before removing the turbo , you need to undo both of these hoses. Again after 13 years of living in 1 piece it wasn't keen on being seperated, and was a real pain to try and seperate.

 

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Once both of those hoses are undone, you can remove the turbo outlet elbow (the bit that holds the turbo's on!) On a J-spec there's 6 bolts (3 on each turbo) but on a UK spec there's 4. They were very difficult to undo, and there's not enough space between the end of the studs and the exhaust manifold to get a socket on them so you have to use a spanner. I suggest using a decent ring spanner so you don't round the nuts off. That would be a real pain! Here's some pics of the 3 bolts on each turbo (There's 2 on the top and 1 on the bottom on no.1 turbo and vice versa on no. 2):-

 

1 on the bottom of no.1 turbo:-

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2 on the top of no.1 turbo:-

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1 on the top of no.2 turbo:-

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2 on the bottom on no.2 turbo:-

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With these undone, with a good deal of wriggling you should be able to remove the turbo assembly. Be careful they're quite heavy, and you don't want to scratch all the paint off the engine bay. I lined mine with towel to help protect it. Here's how it all looked once I'd got them off:-

 

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OK I got a bit excitable at this point and wanted to see what the Blitz kit would look like fitted. Bearing in mind I haven't got any of the gaskets, I put some tape on the mating faces and quickly threw it on. I'll need to put the gaskets on for the next step so it'll be coming off, but here's how it's going to look pretty much:-

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Did a lot more work today.

I wanted to clear up all the odds and sods that I won't be using, mainly the vsv pressure tank and the fuel pulsation dampener.

Although it's possible to remove these without removing the intake manifold, as I'm changing the injectors and fuel rail, I figured I may as well strip the intake side off, and get to these two items from above. If anyone wants to simply replace the injectors most of this will be applicable. Here's how to....

 

First of all remove the air hose from the throttle body:-

 

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Next remove the following connectors from the throttle body:-

The throttle position connector:-

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The sub-throttle position sensor connector:-

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and the sub throttle acuator connector:-

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Then remove the 4 fasteners that hold throttle body to the intake chamber. There's 2 bolts at the top:-

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and 2 nuts at the bottom, which to get to you'll need an extension bar on your 12mm socket:-

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With those undone, you can pull the throttle body away from the intake chamber. Remove the gasket:-

 

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There's a few hoses that you need to remove from the throttle body before you can completely remove it.

 

The EVAP hose:-

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The Water bypass hose from the no.4 water bypass pipe :shrug: You can see it here attached to the bottom of the throttle body, there's another water by-pass hose just behind it as well:-

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Lastly you need to remove the power steering air hose:-

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With those undone you can remove the throttle body:-

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Here's what the intake chamber looks like with the throttle body removed:-

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Next remove the dipstick and dipstick guide. If you've got an auto, you'll also need to remove the auto transmission oil dipstick and guide. I have a 6 speed so didn't need to do this. To remove the dispstick guide there's 1 bolt:-

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Remove the fuel line from the clamp that is part of the dipstick guide, and then pull the dipstick guide upwards. It will pull away from the oil pan:-

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Next remove the air intake chamber stay, and the throttle cable bracket, there's 1 bolt and 1 nut on the chamber stay, and two bolts on the throttle cable bracket:-

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Next remove the idle solenoid control valve connector:-

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Disconnect the turbo pressure sensor connector. I don't use the stock sensor, even though it is still attached to the intake chamber:-

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Here's my AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor, that I'm using instead:-

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The manual for the UK says to remove the VSV for fuel pressure control, but this doesn't look like a VSV. I think it's the intake temp. sensor, which the UK spec doesn't have (mines a J-spec):-

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Next remove the PCV hose from the VSV valve:-

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I also have my Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator attached to the back of the intake chamber, which I had to remove:-

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Next remove the Water bypass hose from the ISC valve to the no.4 by-pass hose. I found it a lot easier to actually remove the ISC valve from the intake manifold, and then disconnect the hoses there. There's 2 bolts for the ISC valve:-

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There's a one way valve to prevent air blowing backwards through the ISC valve. Note the orientation for when you re-install:-

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Next remove the EVAP hose from the vacuum pipe on the manifold stay:-

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And the EVAP hose from the vacuum pipe on the no.4 water bypass pipe to the no.2 vacuum pipe, unfortunatey I didn't get a good pic of it, but it's the hose under the purple connector for my MAP sensor. Also in the pic is the Power steering air hose for the intake chamber, which also needs to be removed:-

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Next remove the brake booster vacuum hose. There's a couple of copper washers, remove them too:-

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Next remove the EVAP hose from the charcoal cannister from the no.2 vacuum pipe:-

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Next remove the no.4 water bypass pipe, there's 2 bolts:-

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Next remove the intake manifold stay, there's 1 bolt at the top, and 1 at the bottom. I couldn't get a decent shot of the lower bolt. If you follow the stay down though, it's easiest to get to the lower bolt from under the car:-

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Next remove the electrical wire clamp. This is a bit of a nightmare job, as there isn't lots of room between the end of the manifold and the firewall. If you use a short 12mm socket it will help for the second bolt. I used a 12mm spanner for the first bolt:-

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Next remove the ground wire from the intake manifold, you can just make it out here:-

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Next remove the bolt from the clamp that holds the diagnostic port:-

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Next remove the 5 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the intake chamber on (There's another 2 bolts that I didn't manage to get pics of, they're right under the manifold, under the no.2 and no.5 runners) :-

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With those removed you can remove the intake manifold:-

 

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You should be left with an engine bay that looks like this, remove the gasket for the inlet manifold:-

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Next to remove the injector rail, first of all remove the stock fuel pressure regulator. As I've got an aftermarket one, it was just a case of removing the adaptor:-

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Next remove all of the injector connectors. You may want to label them, but to be honest they'll pretty much only go on the injector they should go to as the loom points them in the right direction. Also remove the two camshaft position sensors:-

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Next remove the fuel inlet pipe, place a towel under the union as you undo it to prevent fuel spillage:-

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Remove the 6 bolts and the 3 injector holder plates:-

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Next remove the 2 bolts holding the injector rail, the first pic is rubbish, sorry, but the bolt is the one in the middle:-

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With those two bolts removed the rail should just pull off:-

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Be careful to collect all the injector insulators, here you can see the one on the left was left on the manifold, whilst the one on the right came away with the rail:-

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Here's what the rail looks like removed:-

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You should now be left with something looking like this:-

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That's it for if you're just replacing the injectors. I'll be fitting my new rail and injectors in a couple of weeks time, so I'll post up how to fit them. In the mean while I continued with cleaning up the bits I wanted to remove.

 

To get to the pressure cannistor and the fuel pulsation dampener I decided to remove the inlet manifold runners.

To do this first of all unbolt the pressure cannistor, and remove the two hoses for the VSV, and the two hoses to the actual cannistor, here you can just make out the VSV, there's a bolt either side that you need to undo:-

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With that undone, next undo the 2 bolts holding the wiring loom:-

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and the bolt holding the fuel inlet pipe:-

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With that done, it's just a case of undoing the 8 fasteners holding the inlet runner on:-

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And then you can remove the pressure cannistor:-

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And you should be left with this:-

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Next to remove the fuel pulsation dampener, I chose to undo the line from the filter to the dampener, as this is going to be replaced anyway:-

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There's 2 bolts holding the fuel pulsation dampener. They were done up real tight:-

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With them undone, you can remove the fuel pulsation dampener:-

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And that was pretty much it for today!

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  • 2 weeks later...

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