Supe Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 Just had a look at the engine oil cap and it was covered in poo. It's been standing on the drive for ages, checked coolant level, seems to be ok. Was going to do an oil change next week, think I should still do it? Please Help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 If it's standing a long while couldn't that just be caused by condensation?? Obviously an oil change is needed right away....but does it mean its terminal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supe Posted May 18, 2006 Author Share Posted May 18, 2006 standing for around 2 months, think it was standing before that as well doing nothing. I was going to put 5w 40 Silkolene, but dont want to waste all that oil for nothing as you all know the cost of engine oil. Engine Coolant was changed around 3-4 weeks ago. Think oil cap was fine then (think I had a look but can't remeber). Oh yeh before you start saying where did you top up the coolant, it wasnt the oil cap for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_supra Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 It could well be down to it being stood a while. Also short runs that don't allow the engine to warm properly contribute to this also. Change the oil and keep an eye on it. take the car on a good run and keep an eye on the temperature guage just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supe Posted May 18, 2006 Author Share Posted May 18, 2006 Ok, I am going to do an oil change asap, but how shall I drain this Gunk out. Should I warm the car up to normal temp without driving and then drain or do I need to drive the car and warm it up and then drain it. Also do you guys recommend the TRD oil Filter at all. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guru Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 Stock one will be fine Supe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_supra Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 Ok, I am going to do an oil change asap, but how shall I drain this Gunk out. Should I warm the car up to normal temp without driving and then drain or do I need to drive the car and warm it up and then drain it. Also do you guys recommend the TRD oil Filter at all. Cheers You should warm the engine up first, you don't have to drive it, just make sure it's up to normal temp. That'll help get rid of pretty much all of the gunk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supe Posted May 18, 2006 Author Share Posted May 18, 2006 Been having a look at the oil recommendations on the forum, but dont know whether to go for the 5w40 or 10w50/40? (J-spec Twin Turbo Manual) Boost guage, Hks Mushroom filter and catalyst is still there with 5" back box and a fat pipe going to the catalyst bit. And the power of the BEAST IS UNKNOWN. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 normally when the head gasket has gone you get oil in the water res too have you checked that.my mechanic says that the 5w-4o is too thin for old engines 10w is better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supe Posted May 18, 2006 Author Share Posted May 18, 2006 yeh i've checked the coolant reservoir its got the new coolant that I put in about 3-4 weeks ago and its still blood red (toyota stuff). As for the oil, I've been told 5w40 (Silkolene) by oilman and 5w50 (Valvoline) by Envy, so am a bit confused here It's a J-Spec TT 6Spd Manual. What are most of you guys using (Engine Oil), I jus want to get the right stuff. Its gonna be the first time I'm going to take the baby on the road, so you all know how much am gonna use it and having the correct engine oil, I think is the upmost important thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 You won't go wrong with either of those oils, relax If the emulsification comes back on your rad cap then you might have problems. Otherwise it's probably because it's been sat around and got moisture in. -Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian W Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 yep, totally agree with IanC. i use the Silkolene Pro S 5w40 for what its worth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supe Posted May 19, 2006 Author Share Posted May 19, 2006 thanks for your help everyone, Ian the pic i have posted is the engine oil cap, not the rad cap, or did you mean to watch out for it on the rad cap after the oil change etc. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD3000GT Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 I had this a while ago.. I had a faulty single tubo and the water jacket was leaking in to the oil causing a mix...(cappucino froth) Check your dip stick for frothy oil if thats ok then its just condensation in the head (possibly) Id drain the oil fill her up with fresh and then start it up and let her idle... check the dipstic every minute and the oil cap... Once the oil warms up it should evaporate the condensation.. I suggest you dont drive it untill you have idled it up to temprature... Then check everything again and take it out.. Drive for a few mins pull over and take the oil cap off again.. If its frothy again baby the car home and be prepared to drop a bit of £ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 Typo, I meant oil filler cap -Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattanna Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 normally when the head gasket has gone you get oil in the water res too have you checked that.my mechanic says that the 5w-4o is too thin for old engines 10w is better Your mechanic is sensible, get so many people on here with pan handles about oil. If a car has been run on thin synthetic oil from new then it may be ok, but older engines need at least 10w 40 imo, synthetic or not. Castrol have been making it for a bastard long time so if it says on their tin suitable for multivalve turbocharged or non turbo chrged engines then i believe them and use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian W Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 Your mechanic is sensible, get so many people on here with pan handles about oil. If a car has been run on thin synthetic oil from new then it may be ok, but older engines need at least 10w 40 imo, synthetic or not. Castrol have been making it for a bastard long time so if it says on their tin suitable for multivalve turbocharged or non turbo chrged engines then i believe them and use it. from what i understand the choice between a 5w and a 10w is basically the type of driving you do. personally i do a lot of start / stop driving, short distances and hardly ever thrash it so i use the thinner 5w. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKIVDreamer Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattanna Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 you could argue that thinner oil drains back more quickly and possibly seeps through gaps more so does not keep parts as well coated when the engine is off and during the initial start up phase as your oil pump is building pressure, hence the magnatec theory. 10w is still considered fairly "thin" as opposed to 15' and 20's of old.Thinner oil can handle higher temperatures better. I don't think the difference between 5w and 10w is really worth anything but between 0w and 5/10w then i believe it makes a difference.On Castrol's website you can search car models, and for tt supra 1993 on the recommended oils from manufacturer are: Engine oil viscosity recommendations (prior to model year 2000): 10W-30, 10W-50, 15W-40, 20W-40, 20W-50.They have developed a new oil called edge and edge sport 10w 60 is recommended for supra tt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranz Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 you could argue that thinner oil drains back more quickly and possibly seeps through gaps more so does not keep parts as well coated when the engine is off and during the initial start up phase as your oil pump is building pressure, hence the magnatec theory. Err, yes but its slightly more complex than that. At shutdown the oil is hot (if the engine has been run for long enough to warm it up). The system will be full of oil no matter what grade is used, and the drain back past the oil pump back into the sump will be the same for most oils 40 or 50 weight... its only when you start comparing 20 weight versus 60 weight that you're looking at sufficient difference to be worried. A 60 weight will drain back slower when hot, in simple terms. On start up the oil has to be pulled up from the sump again, so thicker oils (looking at the W rating now as it's usually cold on startup) will pump slower. A 5W will reach the pump quicker & start giving pressure sooner than a 15W. So, to protect your engine best a low W ratging and a high hot rating are needed, more so as the engine gets older and the oil pump clearances get bigger due to wear. Ideally a 10W/60, 10W/50 or so would protect the best, in a good fully synthetic oil. Low mileage engines that have full service history on good spec fully synth could probably live on the same grade of oil (5W/30 or 10W/40) all their lives, but as many of our J spec engines have unknown history its probably safest to err on the sided of caution and go for the protection the 10W/60 or 10W/50 gives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranz Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 They have developed a new oil called edge and edge sport 10w 60 is recommended for supra tt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supe Posted May 20, 2006 Author Share Posted May 20, 2006 Right, I'm looking to order my oil today, but which one!, I had a question of 5w 40 or 5w 50, I presume these were fully synthetic (Silkolene and Valvoline)but now I've been recommended 10w 60 Can I use 10w 40 fully synthetic if it is available?, or should I go for the 5w 40 fully synthetic silkolene? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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