XtSupra Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Flash back, I bought my 95 TT MY UK/US specs like a month ago. I bought it from a used car dealer, the car has been modified (but the freaken dealer does not know crap about it) so far it's got Cams, (not even know what kind, but they are kindda wild), Apexi cat back, and a full decate. when I got here, it had vac/boost leaks everywhere, now that I got all of that fixed, she is running pretty damn sweat, but the EGTs seem a bit too high for my taste. today I managed to go WOT in 4th gear and my damn EGTs went all the way to 800C (the probe is mounted in the down pipe so I guessing that's more like 950C-1000C. so I went and got me a brand new supra pump (UK specs) thinking that the one the car has is getting old and not pumping enough. so I did that, and I am still getting the exact EGTs, so I dropped the boost all the way to 0.7 bar (using restrictor ring) and I am still getting very close to 800C EGTs in 4th gear. this is with stock turbos and greddy FMIC. bear in mind the car kindda old and I have no clue what cams does it have, and not sure what the ex owner has done to it. so what's next, I have S-AFC in my other car, should I try that (by the way, since it's UK specs, I should hook it up to the MAF sensor and not MAP right?), but again, if I am getting high EGTs, I guessing my injectors are already at its max, so AFC might not help, what you guys think? the weather here is kindda cold (when I got 800C EGTs temps were (29C-32C). should I get bigger injectors, if yes what size (will be using that with my S-AFC to trim it down low), or maybe get adjustable FPR? if so what brand.? oh I also changed the fuel filter along with the new pump just to let that out of the way. your help guys will be greatly appreciated. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XtSupra Posted November 22, 2005 Author Share Posted November 22, 2005 Ok, here is an Update. The car is suposdly a UK, the VIN and everything else says that. but after a little search here about injectores, and found out that UK/USA injectores are purple/lilic, and the Japs are gray, I went to the car to see what kinds of injectoes that I have, and guess what, they are gray :thumbdown I also remember when was putting the greddy FCD that almost all ECU wires were cut and welded back again (wires going to the ECU had different color wires than the ones going to the harness (engine side). so I am thinking the guy blew the original motor and got a jap spec to replace it and rewired the ECU to work with the jap motor (how can I tell what kind of engine do I have?) I remember once I forgot to plug the maf sensor, and let the car idle for a minute or so, and it was smoking like hell (kindda tells me at least I have UK ECU) anyway, so I think I have UK specs shell and ECU, and I have Jap-specs injectores and maybe engine (any pointers on how to know for sure) and I need more fuel cause I am getting high EGTs (bigger injectores) any help?????????? please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb10supra Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Hello and welcome.....not a good idea buying a car blind matey.....if possible you need to let an expert take a look and tell you exactly whats going on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Can you photograph the engine - close up from the sides and the front? Do you have a resistor pack in? If you do then it's not running j-spec injectors... The resistor pack is located on the same side as the fuel rail....near the suspension tower. Give us some photo's to work with and we should be able to work it all out. PS if you look carefully at the front most injector you should be able to read the part number let alone tell what colour it is And I think the Lilac one's have a habit of fading....fading + dirt could equal you have UK injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Im running the same temps. I have been told its on the high side but not to worry (sensor in downpipe) I have set my alarm at 750 so when ever i am over that i know to keep an eye on it. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Hey XTSupra, you sound quite knowlegeable about Cars so I am amazed that you find yourself in this predicament. Nevertheless, youve got some good experts on this forum that can help you out provided you post some pics.. There is also a guide here and on mkiv.com on how to read VIN numbers, this you should be able to correspond with the number on the bulkhead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XtSupra Posted November 22, 2005 Author Share Posted November 22, 2005 Guys, you are beyond awsome. so after reading your replies, I ran again to the car with my flash light (it's around 10 pm here), took the first injecotr connector off, looked again and .......... Alex you are right, some dirt with lilac color sure turns it into gray and I did check and found 2 electric boxes mounted on the shock mounting bolts (I guessing that this is the resistor pack) so I have UK specs after all ok but why in the hell I am getting high EGTs with UK specs car I am sure cams have some to do with that. ok guys, so what are my options now, to get more fuel that is. bigger injectors or FPR? I feel that I really have to add more fuel, running that high EGTs with only 0.7 to 0.8 bar is just not right. pig, we really have to do something about that. one last thing, will cooler spark plugs run cooler EGTs, and if yes by how much. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Ahmed what condition is your intercooler in? Does it have the stock side mounted IC still? Are there any tuning companies there with a dyno, so you get the air/fuel ratios checked? Alternatively you could install a wide band O2 sensor/gauge so you can monitor the fueling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_have Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Big single would cool it down, in the meantime, a wideband will tell you wether its fueling ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Sorry mate, didnt read the thread properly. This will prob increase your worries but i peaked 800 when i peaked 1.3 bar. 0.7 0.8 its prob 600, oh and thats with a 10 yr old side mount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XtSupra Posted November 22, 2005 Author Share Posted November 22, 2005 Nic, the FMIC looks to be in a good condition. it's not that easy to find good tuning shops here. actually 2 weeks ago I took the car to a shop to mount my BOV (have it welded to IC piping) and just today I found out that for some reasons decided to drill a hole in my IC pipe (yes it was not there when I took it to him) so I welded that up and got more boost creep, so I put a smaller restirector ring (2") and that stopped my boost creep and droped my boost to 0.7 bar. so I can't really trust shops here. but I will try to find a shop with dyno tho. I will try to run the silver STP injector cleaner and see if that helps. if that does not work, I guess I will go ahead and get bigger injectors, and use AFC to lean them a bit. Nic, do you know if there is any 650 injectors for UK specs supras that will fit directly to the stock fuel rail? or anyone else in that matter. thanks a lot people Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XtSupra Posted November 22, 2005 Author Share Posted November 22, 2005 Sorry mate, didnt read the thread properly. This will prob increase your worries but i peaked 800 when i peaked 1.3 bar. 0.7 0.8 its prob 600, oh and thats with a 10 yr old side mount! Pig, I feel a lot better now just kidding bro, I know something is wrong with my damn supra, but what I have no idea. what kindda temps do you have where you live? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 ummm, it feels pretty cold to me maybe 8 C HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Yes Sard, Power Enterprise and a few others do injectors that are a straight swap on teh stock rail, your 550cc injectors should be more than adequate though for your car. I would personally fit a wideband sensor first, so you can see what the fueling is like. The other thing that would be worth doing is replacing the fuel filter, with anew Toyota one, I could source for you if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XtSupra Posted November 22, 2005 Author Share Posted November 22, 2005 thanks Nic, but I did replace the fuel filter along with the pump today. oh and Pig, that's cold bro here it more like 28C and that's considered cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 I think you should post some photos as Alex suggested on the engine bay so we can see if there is anything that isn't stock. Another thought has teh fuel pressure regulator been replaced with an aftermarket one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XtSupra Posted November 22, 2005 Author Share Posted November 22, 2005 the fuel pressure is stock. here is what I have, untill I get a picture that is. - K&N filter mounted on the Maf. - After market cams (not sure what brand are they, but they are pretty wild), HKS cam gears - Greddy FMIC with HKS BOV - greddy FCD set at 4.28 volts - decat and catback that's it really Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Check your fuelling! You can't tune off EGTs. Also, what EGTs do you get at an 80mph cruise? Compare that to someone on here who has a stock turbo setup and an EGT gauge and you should get a good baseline. -Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Ill try to remember to keep an eye on mine tommorrow and let you know, if i forget please remind me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XtSupra Posted November 22, 2005 Author Share Posted November 22, 2005 thanks Ian, I am actually not trying to tune yet, I am just worried that I blow her up. here is an intersting concept that I found at http://mkiv.supras.org. "Do not go for cams of too high a duration for a road car as turbo'd cars work very well with cams that do not have too high an overlap. This is because too much overlap (which is when both the inlet and exhaust valves are open at the same time) will result in air and fuel coming in through the inlet valves and going straight out the exhaust valves before they close. This will result in high exhaust temperatures (BAD) and less power (BAD) and more fuel consumption (who cares). A maximum of 272deg is the most you should run on a street Supra and even then you will get poor idling, but very good flow at high rpm". could that be it? I mean my cams are pretty damn wild. what you guys think. I am actually using the TB butterfly stopper to raise the idle a bit so the car will not rattle that much (wild cams do that) so maybe the above is true? what you guys think? should I try to trard or advace the cams, if so which cam to retard and which to advance? agian, I am not sure what cams I do have in there should I take the valve cover off and see if the cams are stamped? sorry for the huge amount of questions, I am just about to pull my hair off because of that. thanks thanks a lot pig, I will try to remind you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_have Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 You need to establish which cams you have, I would be suprised if they are >264 with stock turbos. If they aren't marked, you can easily check with a degree wheel. BTW, never heard of cams causing engine 'rattle'. I run 264's and advance the exh by 4deg as it seemed to help low end torque and smooth the idle. That is just my preference, most say stock adjustment works best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 If you are getting a rattly chug at extremely low RPMs, like 400rpm, and it sounds like when you are in too low a gear for a hill or something, then I'd bet it's overfuelling a lot... OX1 pin -Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 Check and clean your O2 sensor/Idle Control Valve. (do a search lots said on this before) Replace the cone filter with a stock airbox )you can pick them up second hand). Why? Well you live in a hot country and that cone filter is sucking in hot air all the time...and the problem is worse for the unshielded pod filter. The Stock airbox isn't restrictive and it only recieves air from outside. The Cone filter is sucking in engine bay air with no direct cold air feed. This is NOT helping your EGT's. Unless you can fully shield limit the air supply to only external air then you can keep the cone filter....but buying a second hand stock airbox and filter is a lot easier!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XtSupra Posted November 23, 2005 Author Share Posted November 23, 2005 little update. I checked the voltage going to the pump while the car at idle and it showed 12 volts (hence, 12v pump mod has been done) and after reading a couple of post in here where everyone almost agrees that this mod is usless (especially with out a relay) I undid the mod and fired her up. she idles a lot better now (steadier) I went for a little ride, and the original problems is still there (I knew that was not going to solve that, but I had to try). I also put the stock filter back just to see if that's going to help, and nope, same thing. I also crused at around 80MPH and my EGTs were 650-700C (probe mounted in the down pipe), Pig just reminding you bro. so I am left with 3 things at least. - the injectores are full of crap and not spraying like they should. - the fuel pressure regulator is not doing its job as it should (when these go bad, does the car run way to rich or lean?) - The ECU is messed up. what you guys think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 Hi mate, i dont have my car till friday so will do my best to remember and a second reminder would be appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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