JonW Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 I notice a lot of threads seem to be saying that after market induction kits are a waste of time and that the Standard Box is a better option, especially on an N/A. So my question is how much would it cost to buy the standard box and how easy will it be to replace the Apexi Kit that my car came with. Cheers Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 Keep your eyes open for second hand ones/dismantlers. New are very expensive I believe. Tried Jezzybabes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewen Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 Edit - Should have made it clear that the following applied to a TT, Fitting a standard intake box is easy, but if you manage to get hold of a second-hand one, make sure you have Intake box (two parts, hinged) - the box assy has the mounting flange for the air sensor as well. (CAREFUL when taking the air sensor out of the Apexi and putting it back into standard box - dont get dirt in, and the gasket sits in a groove which needs to be seated right) Gasket (PROBABLY the same one thats on the Apexi now) and two bolts for the air sensor. Three identical isolation bolts for the air box assy. Intake scoop (fits over radiator and slots into intake box) One shouldered bolt to fix scoop into top of radiator. Original rubber hose from air box to original alloy pipe. Two 'wire ring' jubilee clips for the rubber pipe connections. Probably best to buy a brand new panel filter too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 Is it really the case that standard intake is better than all aftermarker ones? I thought that was one of the only tune up options for the n/a? Having just got myself an n/a I would like to hear if anyone has any tuning ideas to get my bhp up! (picking it up from the garage at 6pm! peeing myself with excitement) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 Is it really the case that standard intake is better than all aftermarker ones? I thought that was one of the only tune up options for the n/a? Having just got myself an n/a I would like to hear if anyone has any tuning ideas to get my bhp up! (picking it up from the garage at 6pm! peeing myself with excitement) As I understand it they are just dreadfully bad at filtration and so allow too much shite into the engine. The N/A on my driveway has a HKS mushroom filter on it and I can see why they don't filter well at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supRo Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 Also you're sucking in heat directly from the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 Also you're sucking in heat directly from the engine I think this is the main reason, the airbox design is very good at getting cool air from the outside.. Induction filters can be either foam, cotton or paper. Generally avoid foam as their not so good for filtration. Only way to get more power from an NA is total decat or nitrous. Ask RaysTheRoof who has done both of these things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wez_p Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 Fitting a standard intake box is easy, but if you manage to get hold of a second-hand one, make sure you have Intake box (two parts, hinged) - the box assy has the mounting flange for the air sensor as well. (CAREFUL when taking the air sensor out of the Apexi and putting it back into standard box - dont get dirt in, and the gasket sits in a groove which needs to be seated right) Gasket (PROBABLY the same one thats on the Apexi now) and two bolts for the air sensor. Three identical isolation bolts for the air box assy. Intake scoop (fits over radiator and slots into intake box) One shouldered bolt to fix scoop into top of radiator. Original rubber hose from air box to original alloy pipe. Two 'wire ring' jubilee clips for the rubber pipe connections. Probably best to buy a brand new panel filter too. i never noticed any of these bits when i was swapping my stock airbox back on for the apexi i had - is this specific to NAs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 Yah, they have one of those manky MAF sensors like the UK spec and VVTi TT has as well -Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest chiefvinso Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 Surely once a car is in motion a free flowing filter is going to be able to flow more cooler air than the standard box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 Surely once a car is in motion a free flowing filter is going to be able to flow more cooler air than the standard box? Nope - the stock air box takes 2 feeds from area's away from the engine. The cone filters pick up air from near the engine no nice sealed off air feeds. I've done all I can to aide this via the attached pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wez_p Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 something like this however http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateH.asp?SubFolderID=213&SearchYN=N does seem to be 'best of both worlds' but according to the experts, i.e. someone like Chris Wilson, the standard airbox & even the standard filter is not restrictive anyway garetheves has a nice custom airbox very similar to the MVP one which makes use of the air feeds & even seals to the bonnet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewen Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 Came home from work the other night to catch my son trying to suss a way of fitting my now redundant Blitz Sonic to his mini..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blitz supra Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 just make your own heat sheild, Took me about 20 mins, a sheet of alloy with a 90 degree lip at bottom there are 2x holes already in chassis that take 2x 6mm bolts, this sorts out the heat problem if any and also stops any crap from the fan hitting the filter True HKS element cone is crap ( considering cost) uprate it to BLITZ stainless mesh type or Apexi or KN Filter you need a 100mm neck fitting Since putting my HKS induction kit on my N/A... it flys..... especailly at night or when temp is cold... but then all car will do that as cold air = more power My car is also alot better on fuel 25 - 26mpg around town 34 - 36 on a long run... that is better than my mates Ford Focus!!! And no i don't poodle in it either, I got 156 miles from £20.00 last week on a decent run and town work For some reason there seems to be a lot of negative opinions on induction kits, The TT runs much higher temps under the bonnet. so there may be a possibility that you'd be better off with a standard filter... MAYBE.. If in inductions kits are so bad guys why are they all used in Motorsport?? I think truth be known most people just don't know how to set up a proper cold air feed and heatsheild Personally my car runs better than it did with a standard box, it used more fuel . even with a new Airfilter.. And my last car a Mitsubishi FTO was the same, much better and efficent with an induction kit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Yep the TT has very high underbonnet temps. I agree that the heat problem might not be so great on the N/A. There is also no doubting that the HKS 'shroom doesn't filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 just make your own heat sheild, Took me about 20 mins, a sheet of alloy with a 90 degree lip at bottom there are 2x holes already in chassis that take 2x 6mm bolts, this sorts out the heat problem if any and also stops any crap from the fan hitting the filter True HKS element cone is crap ( considering cost) uprate it to BLITZ stainless mesh type or Apexi or KN Filter you need a 100mm neck fitting Since putting my HKS induction kit on my N/A... it flys..... especailly at night or when temp is cold... but then all car will do that as cold air = more power My car is also alot better on fuel 25 - 26mpg around town 34 - 36 on a long run... that is better than my mates Ford Focus!!! And no i don't poodle in it either, I got 156 miles from £20.00 last week on a decent run and town work For some reason there seems to be a lot of negative opinions on induction kits, The TT runs much higher temps under the bonnet. so there may be a possibility that you'd be better off with a standard filter... MAYBE.. If in inductions kits are so bad guys why are they all used in Motorsport?? I think truth be known most people just don't know how to set up a proper cold air feed and heatsheild Personally my car runs better than it did with a standard box, it used more fuel . even with a new Airfilter.. And my last car a Mitsubishi FTO was the same, much better and efficent with an induction kit... The point is for 4,000,000,000,000,000 time that an induction kit on it's own is not enough and some induction kits are rubbish full stop as they can't filter out enough particulates. Any induction kit not sealed away from the engine will suck in hot air, hot air = less power. In the Supra there is no standard cold air feed in that area capable of supporting an induction kit. So the hot air from the engine will swamp it. Mentioning motorsport is a complete red-herring, it's got nothing to do with road cars. As real dragsters don't run a filter at all...tracks are far cleaner that the road....and the engines don't generally have to last 100k+ miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sub_Culture Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 just make your own heat sheild, Took me about 20 mins, a sheet of alloy with a 90 degree lip at bottom there are 2x holes already in chassis that take 2x 6mm bolts, this sorts out the heat problem if any and also stops any crap from the fan hitting the filter True HKS element cone is crap ( considering cost) uprate it to BLITZ stainless mesh type or Apexi or KN Filter you need a 100mm neck fitting Since putting my HKS induction kit on my N/A... it flys..... especailly at night or when temp is cold... but then all car will do that as cold air = more power My car is also alot better on fuel 25 - 26mpg around town 34 - 36 on a long run... that is better than my mates Ford Focus!!! And no i don't poodle in it either, I got 156 miles from £20.00 last week on a decent run and town work For some reason there seems to be a lot of negative opinions on induction kits, The TT runs much higher temps under the bonnet. so there may be a possibility that you'd be better off with a standard filter... MAYBE.. If in inductions kits are so bad guys why are they all used in Motorsport?? I think truth be known most people just don't know how to set up a proper cold air feed and heatsheild Personally my car runs better than it did with a standard box, it used more fuel . even with a new Airfilter.. And my last car a Mitsubishi FTO was the same, much better and efficent with an induction kit... Have you got a picture of your heat shield installation? When I have some money, Id like to buy an Apexi air filter for my TT and make one too. I do love the sound of a decent induction kit, I do! Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blitz supra Posted November 5, 2005 Share Posted November 5, 2005 Have you got a picture of your heat shield installation? When I have some money, Id like to buy an Apexi air filter for my TT and make one too. I do love the sound of a decent induction kit, I do! Andy When you remove the std Air box you will see two threaded holes on chassis leg Take 1x sheet of Alloy 1.5 - 2mm approx 30cm long bend approx a 1in lip on it at bottom drill 2x holes to line up with the holes on the chassis. make the sheild height just below your original Air intake that sits on top of Rad, When you remove std Airbox you will have to make a little bracket to the remaining top Intake tube and new sheild to hold the pipe in place as it will now only have 1x bolt holding it on mythe Rad To be honest once you strip it and have a sheet of Alloy it pretty much makes sense you will see what you have to do. SEE ATTACHED PIC and a pic of my Supra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sub_Culture Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 Wow! Awesome job there, matey! It looks like a very professional installation. Gorgeous looking Supe as well. Not normally a fan os silver cars, but that one looks like an absolute beaute! Thanks for taking the time to post up a pic. A picture tells a thousand words and all that!.... Makes things much clearer. I will have a go when I can afford a nice filter! Oh, and have decided on one of course! Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blitz supra Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 Wow! Awesome job there, matey! It looks like a very professional installation. Gorgeous looking Supe as well. Not normally a fan os silver cars, but that one looks like an absolute beaute! Thanks for taking the time to post up a pic. A picture tells a thousand words and all that!.... Makes things much clearer. I will have a go when I can afford a nice filter! Oh, and have decided on one of course! Andy No probs , it only took about 20 mins to do, although in you may need to bend it about a little to clear the cone etc, if it touches the cone you may get a tizzing, The N/A seems to respond very well to a induction kit and i have noticed it is better on fuel too under normal / cruising driving compared to the standard and rather restricted Air box, I have left the original top intake in place, you need to attach this with a L braket to the new plate as it will only be left on with 1x bolt other wise. I have yet to work out and install cold Air ducting off the original piping, This will need to look good as well as do its job though. Go for it... I say Many negative opinions seem to come from TT owners, but perhaps the TT doesn't respond well to a kit??? compared to the N/A BUT the NA does providing you use a heat sheild and ducting, I had very good results from my FTO as well. I have noticed though my N/A with the HKS kit fitted makes the car much more responsive particulary under the 5K power band. 5K and above ....it really flys!!! I have wondered though. whether mine has had Cams fitted?? in Japan ( although smooth idle) as it does seem to appear to be much quicker than any other N/A both myself and my importer has driven. 0-60 was recently timed ...(5 times by timing equipment) .... each time we got 6.0 secs dead.. not bad i thought Unless mine is just set up properly perhaps e.g ign timing etc etc ??? , although i am aware the NA comes on cam at 5K.and then becomes a different car altogether, It may not be a TT but it still spanks most things on the road.. Only mods i'm aware of are HKS Induction Kit / Jap exhaust (loud!!) and the chip but i haven't checked the chip out yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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