cainhead Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 Not had a chance to check the coil packs yet but I did remove the cam sensors which were a little grubby. Cleaned them up and replaced but still nothing. I checked the current of both sensors and the crank sensor and they are all within the recommended ohmns readings. If they were shot would I still get a reading? Also I found the correct cable to hook up to ecu and the software download from the AEM site, however im not comfortable connecting up as I dont want to wipe anything. Does anyone know how to connect up to AEM V2 and just check faults. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 Coil packs tested and all connectors getting 11.3 volts. Completely stumped and incredibly frustrated after putting a lot of money into it and was first drive back after picking it up from garage. One minute pulling great then stop for some food and thing won't start. Arghhhh. Only thing I can think of before trailing it back to garage is maybe plugs. Apparently the ones I'm running have a slight misfire and need warmer ones which I've ordered, and other thing is if someone can help me out with Aem software to check faults. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 Youtube has alot of aem instrcution videos mate also check out there forum which is a great help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 Sorry to revive this but still having issues. Managed to get the car started and thought I had fixed the issue. Changed plugs, new fuel pump and things were working. Went out at weekend all okay, went home to pick up the missus and wouldn't start. Tried and tried, key in click immobiliser loads of times car cranks okay then after 15 mins it fires. It stutters for a second and struggles if you hit throttle, but after 30 seconds or so it runs and drives the best it has since I bought it. Again tried to start today and same thing 20 mins trying then out of nowhere it fires. Have checked resistance of all sensors from pins at ecu and all correct. Will check crank star tomorrow as that's only thing left from suggestions, but why would it fire intermittently if that were broken. Could it be loose? Could ECU be faulty. No idea any help much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Get the lead and software for the ecu, it will save a lot of grief. Leave the coil pack cover off for a while and carry a spare plug and a 10mm socket and extension and ratchet. Next time it won't start you can immediately check if it's not sparking. Carry Easi Start, spray into air box without the filter in, whilst someone cranks it over. Then you can see if it's a no fuel issue. It's not got one of those lousy aftermarket fuel pressure "regulators" from China on it, has it? They can give issues. But again, you need the lead and software for the ecu, didn't it come with it??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 Get the lead and software for the ecu, it will save a lot of grief. Leave the coil pack cover off for a while and carry a spare plug and a 10mm socket and extension and ratchet. Next time it won't start you can immediately check if it's not sparking. Carry Easi Start, spray into air box without the filter in, whilst someone cranks it over. Then you can see if it's a no fuel issue. It's not got one of those lousy aftermarket fuel pressure "regulators" from China on it, has it? They can give issues. But again, you need the lead and software for the ecu, didn't it come with it??? Bought the ECU of Keron so no lead or software. Have ordered the lead and downloaded the software so will try that first. In regards to the easy start how does that work on a single turbo. Also I do have a Aermotive fuel pressure which was bought and fitted at Whifbitz along with new rail, injector and filter. When the pumps running you can feel something running through the lines in and out of the regulator, and when running I don't have any issues and afr looks normal. The RAC man did a spark check and said there was no spark but when I checked the coil packs they did have power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Just spray the easy Start into the compressor mouth of the turbo (where the air filter is). It'll probably work if you just spray it onto the filter itself. If it tries to fire up it's almost certainly a fuel issue. If it doesn't it's almost certainly a no spark issue. You then need to see if the ecu is triggering the coils, or if it's getting cam and crank position reference signals. Any good garage should be able to say why it's not starting, if not be able to fix it if it's an ecu fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 Just wanted to update this thread in case this can help anyone else in the future with similar issues. After resigning to the fact the the ECU might be shot, I had one last idea, which was to call AEM tech support in the states. I sent him an email explaining my problem and he replied saying it sounded like something was interfering with the signal. Some kind of accessory, maybe something with a relay. He said the EMS V2 either works and its shot, there never normally intermittent. Any way he said get the car started or at least try, the after turning it off, disconnected the negative battery for 30 seconds then try. I did this a few times and each ime it started on the first or second try. So seemingly something was causing this. Firstly I thought immobilizer so starting working out how to disconnect that, but after tidying up the under dash wiring I thought the only other new thing with a relay is the push start or the LED rear lights. So pulled the lights relay and tried again. Well wouldn't know it, start first time every time. So it turns out the relay was either not grounding properly, or had a funny connection. This was causing the ECU to think it was still on even when the car had been stopped, so when you came to start it again it was confused until I had turned the key enough times that it clicked back into life again. Mad how it can be something lie that. Anyway will monitor it for now just in case, but also wanted to thank everyone for all the comments/posts/suggestions especially Chris Wilson for his expert testing methods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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