ballsdeep Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 Thanks Lyndon the igniter is tight but I recall messing with the location of the ignition coil so Il check this in the morning. If you remember I was having a very similar issue not long ago and thought I fixed it with your replacement ecu (if only it was that simple) I just hope it hasn't eaten another! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Only had 10mins so checked the easy things first, pulled the plugs all the same as this one. (Check for spark tomorrow) Then I moved onto checking the voltage on the igniter loom, now I tend to stay well clear of wiring issues as I have no idea what I'm doing so il post up what I found and maybe someone can give me a clue? Instructions are too check igniter connection 2, disconnect plug check l2 with ign to on and start (voltage should be 9-14v) Black red 11.79 Black white 0.07 Black orange 11.78 Red white 0.6 Red yellow 0.01 (Only managed to check while ignition in the on position) Also checked ignition coil wiring but I was unsure which plug to test so did them both. Instructions say disconnect and measure resistance between terminals in connector Grey plug Black orange 008 Brown black 0 Black plug Black orange 008 Red black stayed 1 which I think is no Continuity? (Should be - cold - 0.54 - 0.84 and Hot - 0.68 - 0.98) I probably ballsed it up but hey I'm trying to learn! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 So to the best of my abilities I checked the following: Test e2 pin (tps loom) - checked ok Beep test Tps & map sensor to ecu blue orange wire - tested ok check voltage from ecu (IGF 58) - tested 4.9v Ignition switch (E10 1) to coil tested ok Resistance between coil terminals (grey and black plug no resistance???) need to look into this further I might be doing it wrong? Ecu pin 64 too TPS IDL (2nd pin) tested ok Also swapped out some parts: Ht leads Ignition Coil Igniter Now don't flame me but what I should have checked for first was a spark and guess what.. I can swap out the plugs and distributor cap tomorrow but then what?? Any help please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 (edited) Just to update problem solved, nasty corroded king lead and distributor cap! now i can get back on topic! CTS fitted so once my new dizzy cap arrives il see how the afr's respond! Edited February 28, 2015 by ballsdeep (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 Have a feeling my recently purchased O2 sensor is goosed? Afr was 13.5 after 20mins driving so I left it to idle, turned lights off it then dropped to 13.0 after 10 more minutes it was at 14.7 so opened bonnet to check ox1 pin (O2 sensor) which was 0.4v but AFR had dropped to 12.0 at this point? Next step swap the O2 sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 (edited) I apologise, I am mad busy right now and don't have time to refresh my memory by reading all the thread, but a quick observation. Has it got a new stock thermostat? Can you log the water temps? Can you log water temps V fuelling? Is the fuel trim V water temp map sensible? Get an MOT station to check your AFR readings against their sniffer, before buying a new sensor. Or pay a performance workshop to swap in their mapping wide band for a sanity check. Edited March 4, 2015 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 Can you log the water temps? Can you log water temps V fuelling? Is the fuel trim V water temp map sensible?. what's the best way to do this? Sorry dummie here!! I have replaced the coolant temp sensor and thermostat for oem parts, but the O2 sensor was changed a few months back for one from rockautos (recommended from someone on here) I will look into getting the afr's checked with my local mot station! Thanks chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 A stock type O2 sensor only reads and outputs accurately closely around stoichiometric. You need a wide band for accurate readings more widely either side of stoich. How are you getting these readings? My experience of none OE O2 sensors on many cars is they are plain not as good. You need to get someone with a decent wide band sensor verify your feras, there may well be nothing wrong with the sensor you have, just that you are trying to "see" readings it's incapable of giving with any accuracy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 (edited) I'm not 100% conviced the O2 sensor is faulty either. but something has caused the afr gauge to drop from 14.7 to 12 in the time it took me to open the bonnet to test the O2, so when I took the reading from the ox1 pin it must have been at 12afr which i understand will not be accurate so il swap it with my spare oem one just to confirm but this time make sure it's at stoich. The afr readings are from my AEM afr gauge Edited March 4, 2015 by ballsdeep (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Doesn't the AEM require a wide band sensor? I am not familiar with it, I use a Motec PLM here, so have never played with the AEM one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Doesn't the AEM require a wide band sensor? I am not familiar with it, I use a Motec PLM here, so have never played with the AEM one. Yes Im sure it does. normally the Bosch one. Is this where the emanage is getting its AFR feed from?? I have similar issues when my wideband sensor was knackered in my last one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 I am getting confused. this Rockauto O2 sensor, is this wideband or stock? Is there a second O2 sensor for the AEM meter? If there's a second sensor feeding the AEM is it a proper 5 wire wideband? I have no idea how the emanage gets its fuelling signal from, if indeed it gets one directly at all. Describe the whole O2 sensor(s) setup in detail to clarify please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 That's right chris the AEM has a wideband sensor so this is screwed into my dp and is plugged into my gauge but isn't wired into the e-manage so has no control over fueling. The O2 sensor I got from rockauto is oem spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Once you are happy the AEM is reading correctly can you not get the emanage to also use it? Or does the emanage not read O2 directly? First step is to be sure the AEM is giving sensible info though, you need to compare it with a known good readout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 I'm not sure I may have read somewhere that there's an optional harness to plug the afr gauge to the e-manage ultimate, but first Iv found an easy way to test if the wideband sensor is working so maybe a job for the weekend. I know I can be confusing at times so I do appreciate your help!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Personally I wouldn't bother running the AEM wide-band signal to the EMU as its not very good at auto tuning anyway, yes you can log the output, but I think you can do this with the AEM software too. Depending on your state of tune you may find that the wide-band sensor can get overheated and give rise to some odd readings, you could try fitting a heat sink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Another thread that I can close, turned out the tps was badly adjusted before mapping. Cars running great now and afr's are spot on! It now takes half the time to reach stoich and is stable. Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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