Dazzi Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Thought I'd ask regarding the wiring as I wired an SAFC onto my harness and the airflow wire came loose after a few thousand miles (vibration?). The car was running but pig rich. Black smoke on idle and AFR well below 10 (AEM UEGO). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nodalmighty Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 I've seen this before on an MR2 when the Engine light doesn't come on when te1 + e1 are bridged. It the MR2's case the 5v line in the AFM had shorted to another track internally. Disconnect all the 5v sensors TPS & Map Sensor and see if the Engine MIL come back on. Lyndon, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 *update* freshly charged battery on today and turns out the diagnostic check works. But before I checked it i'd forgot to plug the map sensor back in. weather it's related I don't know but it pulled code 31 so I cleared it and started her up but what Iv noticed this time around is it doesn't idle at 2k from cold start. This is where it's sitting? maybe a clue?? It managed to stay running at this while I listened to each injector with a long extension bar and they are all sounding the same so would that rule out ones not stuck open? I did pick up on the fuel pressure regulator has a really loud clicking sound going on, is this normal and I'm only noticing now because the rev are SO low? Il try and get a video uploaded. So decided I would check for codes again but nothing so fired her up and for some reason the idle was much better 950 but dropping slightly then after 2mins it cut out Started her up again and it was fighting to run with the revs ridiculously low so switched off. intensions were to get it up to temperature but failed miserably! Lyndon I'm yet to check everything else but I have ordered a genuine greddy map sensor, I know it's not the best solution buying parts on the off chance but I always intended to get a genuine one anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 http://youtu.be/fsCCIsd8Voo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nodalmighty Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 Also check the alternator is charging. If it's running 11 -> 12 v then with the ultimate in the mix the injector PWM compensation from the OEM ecu might not be spot on. You did mention the ICSV went on the blink. If this is stuck with the plunger wound out then very little air would be bypassing the throttle. Even one stepper outputs from the ecu going down can cause very weird idle control characteristics. Lyndon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted August 5, 2014 Author Share Posted August 5, 2014 Tested the battery and alternator both turned out ok, then my battery went in the multimetre. So il put numbers up when I test again later. To be fair I'm lost with Testing the map sensor signal / earths it's my first time using a multimetre, do I leave the loom end plugged in and use a needle to pierce the insulation sorry if it seems obvious! Copy Greddy map sensor was replaced to day for a genuine one and still the same. Cold start low idle then 5 mins in cuts out. Going to try and get hold of another icv. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 Yes, leave the plug connected and either pierce the insulation of the wires with sharpened probes or use needles. Good luck. Be sure to have the meter set to read DC volts. *NOT* Amps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted August 5, 2014 Author Share Posted August 5, 2014 Thanks chris dc volts got it job for tomorrow now it's started raining! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted August 5, 2014 Author Share Posted August 5, 2014 Well chris it was dark and wet but managed to get these Map sensor: Blue/red - 5.05 ignition on and idle Blue and white ignition on - 3.66 idle - 1.59 Brown ground 0.02 ignition on and idle Means jack all to me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 Well done, sensible looking numbers, but sounds like it's NOT the MAP sensor at fault Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted August 5, 2014 Author Share Posted August 5, 2014 Dam it!! quite pleased with myself though so I'm feeling confident Iv just pulled the tb off so I can now attempt to setup the tps perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted August 5, 2014 Author Share Posted August 5, 2014 A bung blocking this vac port just fell off in my hand what affect would this have? I should mention its had some work done to it. Also testing procedures for the following please Engine Temp Sensor. Fuel Pressure Regulator Locked open Injector Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 That won't make a lot of difference. Temp sensor hot and cold resistance check on temp sensor terminals, plug pulled off. Specs are in tech section, by Andy Blyth. FPR you need fancy gear, Mityvac pump and adaptors to fit a suitable pressure gauge on the pressure side of the rail feed. Not really DIY. Stock ones are nearly 100% reliable, aftermarket ones are often not... Stuck injector best tested with an oscilloscope, but just listening to the body of each with the engine running, with a long screwdriver should show one not clicking. Intermittent sticking needs a scope though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted August 5, 2014 Author Share Posted August 5, 2014 Thanks for that well injectors I should be able to rule out then Iv listened to each one and they all click the same. I guess il look into testing the temp sensor, cheap enough to buy so might just change it anyway. Cheers pal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 In my experience they are either open circuit, or OK, very very rarely do I see one that's intermittent, or short circuit. The connector plugs can play up though, and wires fracture within the insulation, so have a good pull and poke around. If the meter reads closish to Andy's resistance chart i would look elsewhere. They aren't THAT cheap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted August 5, 2014 Author Share Posted August 5, 2014 (edited) Just found it will try and wrap my head round it tomorrow! One last thing for tonight are these lights normal for ignition on? I can't remember? They stay on until engine is started no matter how long I leave it! Edited August 5, 2014 by ballsdeep (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 Another day and I'm still non the wiser? Iv done another video with some more clues for the techys. http://youtu.be/BU9kNQFyQ80 So as before Starts up fine but idles way too low for a cold start (it's got better used to be 6-700rpm) today was 1200 As the idle drops Iv been putting the ac on to increase the rpm slightly as it seems to help keep it running for abit longer but never makes it to operating temp. This time I was spraying brake cleaner around the vac hoses and manifold just under the icv and on the engine loom at this point the idles would drop and almost cut out. Then at its usual point 5mins into running it drops revs and hunts, while it's doing this it almost sounds like its knocking and the engine light comes on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 Hard to be sure what noises are you and the recording device, or the engine, but my best guess is: Take the top cover (plug) off and see if the cam belt is slack, maybe the cam belt tensioner has failed. Sounds as much mechanical as electrical. Definitely ignition timing related in some way. But so hard to diagnose from a video clip! If were here I'd also have a good old fashioned vacuum gauge on the plenum and monitor that, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 probably should have said what was me making noises and what was the engine, the interesting stuff happens at the end just after you hear me using my very precise tapping technique on the idle control valve. If I was confident it would make it to you without breaking down id chance a visit but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't make it and I'd probably do more damage?? In regards to the cam belt all is tight, thanks for helping out though chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted August 8, 2014 Author Share Posted August 8, 2014 Trough I would post up my results on the temp sensor. Was hard getting a hot reading but managed 2 starts, second one ran for longer but still never got up to temperature. Multimetre set to 200k 02.1 cold 1.3/1.2 2mins running 00.5 (temp see picture) Hopefully I did it correctly, anyone have a part number for the 2jzge sensor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j-a-y Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 just been reading this rev problom youv been having. this do's sound similar to mine but not stalling just drops to 500rpm ish then up to 800 rpm when you drive n come to a stop.......as for the temp sensor i would'nt get it as iv changed my one and no difference. hope this help a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 (edited) Thanks for your input mate It turned out to be the stock ecu for some reason it was making it overfuel? I started another thread as this one was getting confusing! http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?312033-NA-T-dying-a-slow-death-running-rich-RESULT!!!!/page3 It's running great again, still takes a while to warm up and afr's to settle in the 14's but I'm not worried about that I think it's normal? Sorry I can't help much with your issue but maybe there's some testing procedures in this thread you could follow?? Edited September 23, 2014 by ballsdeep (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j-a-y Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 ok thats cool. good to hear that it's running great and i will try some of the diagnostic idear's...but i may try and change this.. and see what happens.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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