Scott Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Only if they're badly corroded but even then, they'll clean up with a draw file. The stock ones are chrome plated, if it's corroded through it's best just to bin them as even with a good clean up they will corrode again in no time without the protective plating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SilverSup Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 ok thanks guys. really useful info for me to be getting on with. I'll get the standard "service" kits for now and i'll see how i get on. are there any issues i need to worry about removing/replacing parts that i should be aware of (aside from very stiff caliper mount bolts). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 ok thanks guys. really useful info for me to be getting on with. I'll get the standard "service" kits for now and i'll see how i get on. are there any issues i need to worry about removing/replacing parts that i should be aware of (aside from very stiff caliper mount bolts). Stiff caliper mount bolts, stiff slider pins, greasy, messy, gungy, etc. It's a bit of a pain of a job but it's relatively straight forward. 1 real bit of advice I could give you is to make sure you use a hex set rather than a multipoint socket set. It makes all the difference in getting the bolts off cleanly, this goes for the calipers themselves too. Oh, get a swear jar and see how much you make Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westy Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 I say UK brakes also mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SilverSup Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Stiff caliper mount bolts, stiff slider pins, greasy, messy, gungy, etc. It's a bit of a pain of a job but it's relatively straight forward. 1 real bit of advice I could give you is to make sure you use a hex set rather than a multipoint socket set. It makes all the difference in getting the bolts off cleanly, this goes for the calipers themselves too. Oh, get a swear jar and see how much you make lol, the swear jar sounds like a good idea, especially if i rope in a foolish mate to give me a hand. I've got a full set of both multi-point and wall drive sockets and a multitude of varying spanners, etc. and, of course, the official tool of england - the BFH (Big F**kin' Hammer ). I used to restore/rebuild/tune 40-50 year old scooters (Old school Lambretta's from the 60's) so i know how much of a PITA corroded bolts etc can be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Before you start buying parts do you know for sure which brakes you currently have fitted? Some later NA's were factory fitted with the larger 4pot/2pot brakes and it's also a common upgrade, if you're not sure post up some pics. Good advice already, if you do have the smaller 2pot/1pot brakes the following will get the best out of them Caliper refurb kit Good set of brake pads - Chris Wilson's fast road pads are popular with members. Stainless steel braided brake lines. Stock brake discs. Decent brake fluid - see HERE I'd also recommend fitting a brace for the brake master cylinder, they can flex on firewall quite a lot, a brace will help firm up the pedal feel and improve braking performance. Carbing Tower Bar - with BMC stopper http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/2775/attachment1phpdh1.jpg Cusco Brake Cylinder Stopper http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/7042/attachmentphpib1.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.