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FCD "not recommended" --- why?


JohnA

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I need to experiment briefly with boost pressures over 1 bar, and I found a new, cheap HKS FCD on eBay.

 

I see on mkiv.com that they are labelled as "not recommended", anybody know exactly why? :rtfm:

 

Do they remove the boost cut completely, simply raise it a bit, or do they create weird problems with fuelling/ignition/what-have-you?

 

cheers guys

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I need to experiment briefly with boost pressures over 1 bar, and I found a new, cheap HKS FCD on eBay.

 

I see on mkiv.com that they are labelled as "not recommended", anybody know exactly why? :rtfm:

 

Do they remove the boost cut completely, simply raise it a bit, or do they create weird problems with fuelling/ignition/what-have-you?

 

cheers guys

 

I had one on mine with absolutely no problems. It removes cut completely.

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Shoite :( , I've just found a full explanation on .com, by LanceW (under GReddy notes, go figure...)

 

...The HKS unit reduces the signal coming from the turbo pressure sensor at a fixed percentage, which means that all the data coming from this sensor is corrupt...

 

The EBV won't be too happy, among other users of the boost pressure signal.

 

Makes you think twice about the repercussions of such (simple at first glance) mods, brrrr..... :scare:

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I ain't gonna copy/paste something longer than half a screenshot. MKIV.COM ain't gonna disappear overnight either.

 

I know what you mean though, lots of intersting stuff disappears from the net, server failures, free webspaces withdrawn, paid services stopped etc...I've had this problem with links on my website, so many drowned without a trace through the last couple of years.

Now I make an effort to keep local copies as well, so when (not IF) they go missing the info is still available. It takes up a LOT of webspace though, and that costs money.

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The way they describe the operation of the FCD in mkiv.com is not dissimilar to that of fitting a bleed valve on the MAP sensor's hose.

 

Except it is not a pneumatic method, it is electronic.

That's not satisfactory at all

 

What I'd like is something that leaves the signal intact unti 1bar, then simply caps the output to 4.3V or whatever the value is for 0.98bar.

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Yes but do they leave the signal intact until that point?

 

Thor's ones do. They simply cap at a desired voltage.

 

John, as far as I can make out, you should be OK with the HKS one as I'm fairly sure the MAP sensor is ONLY used for fuel cut on a UK spec. - Although I'd be interested, and happy to be proved wrong.

It's undoubtably the MAF that controls all the fuelling on a UK car....

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Yes but do they leave the signal intact until that point?

 

Well for the Greddy:

 

Factory Settings: Unit under test provides 2 millivolts gain to the signal, which equates to 0.016 psi, across all test voltages. This is insignificant. The unit clamped @ 3.94 vdc which equates to 0.71 kg/cm2 or 10.12 psi gauge according to measurements taken on my OEM turbo pressure sensor.

 

I reset the clamp voltage to 4.31 vdc to simulate 1.95 kg/cm2 absolute pressure, since the manual states that fuel cut occurs at 2.00 kg/cm2 absolute. This clamp setting equates to 0.92 kg/cm2 gauge or 13.04 psig.

 

I think we can safely forget about 2mv gain.

 

Thor's version according to the site info here

an FCD that leaves the boost signal alone until it approaches the cutoff level, and then kicks in, holding the signal below the critical level.
So uses a similar 'clamp' method like the greddy that doesn't interfere untill the preset point but with the addition of overboost protection. This is why I mentioned those 2 in reply to your question.
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Thor's ones do. They simply cap at a desired voltage.

 

John, as far as I can make out, you should be OK with the HKS one as I'm fairly sure the MAP sensor is ONLY used for fuel cut on a UK spec. - Although I'd be interested, and happy to be proved wrong.

It's undoubtably the MAF that controls all the fuelling on a UK car....

 

My MAP's disconnected so it' can't hurt that much ;)

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Thor's ones do. They simply cap at a desired voltage.

So if I were to go for one, it would have to be one of those then.

..the MAP sensor is ONLY used for fuel cut on a UK spec.

How about pulsing the EBV VSV? that's based on boost isn't it? (sod the wastegate VSV, that I control pneumatically)

It's undoubtably the MAF that controls all the fuelling on a UK car....

As I'm experimenting in general, I'm not sure how long the MAF will be sitting there strangulating the intake.

 

However MKIV.COM is geared around US-spec, which in this respect is similar to UKSpec, is it not?

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Guest ChrisB__1

I have evaluated both over a period of months - HKS and Thor VFCC.

 

Firstly, you run rich at 1 bar. The HKS scales the output ("corrupting" it's written, but it's a scaling in reality) which means the ECU sees the output increasing all the time up until your boost maxes out. Note that the boost cut IS retained - depending on your setting, 9 for Supra's. This leans out the mixture slightly, only when on boost. To put this in perspective, the Thor VFCC leans out the mixture above 1bar by holding/capping at 4.3v (or whatever) when in reality the boost is higher.

 

Visually, the car puts out black smoke puffs when using VFCC and no smoke with HKS (fuelling closer to ideal). On dyno, the fuelling was fine even at 1.1 bar with setting 6 on the HKS (lower setting equals leaner, recommended is setting 9 out of 12).

 

VFCC is *just* suitable for 1JZ, as has a different map sensor to 2jz - 1jz is only to 1bar, hence setting F or E is needed.

 

HKS is *just* suitable also for 1JZ - using the recommended setting from 2JZ. The problem here is that the 2jz map sensor outputs a lower voltage (greater range of map sensor) when boost just about starts coming on. So the leaning out is WORSE with 1jz, but ONLY low-down rev-range when spooling, around 3k on mine. I see a lean spot on my A/F ratios' around here and then all hell breaks loose.

 

In summary, I sold my VFCC and kept the HKS. If you're going above 1.2 bar, I don't recommend use of FCD alone in either case. However, I'd add that neither is really suitable for the 1JZ. It should be remembered that an FCD is really acting as a fuel controller, and it's possible to build/buy a cheap (but very effective) fuel controller for a similar price (read

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I went for the VFCC in the end, despite the price being double (the other one was new from eBay)

 

I *did* consider this HKS's gradual 'leaning off' as a potential boon, because boy does my ECU run rich from 10psi upwards.

 

In my case I am experimenting with higher air masses over 12 psi, so when my boost gauge shows 17psi it will really be more air molecules compared to stock twins pushing hot air. Hence the need for more fuel to pair them up.

...so I decided to play it safe and go for the one that leans out the mixture as little as possible. Maybe over 1 bar they both lean it out the same, can't we just tell from the 'final' signal they allow for the MAP?

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