paul mac Posted June 1, 2010 Author Share Posted June 1, 2010 Nope, if in doubt, put a nipple on it I didn't plan to really update the thread I made so it doesn't look like it would be much use I can see why you'd skip over it. no its defo of use mate, i meant i looked at the title and didn't think it was what i was looking for so skipped past without even looking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 I suppose it depends on how much you value your ride quality. Id probly stick with a stock one with some poly bushes and see how it gets on. Stiffer bars are probly more intune for people who use there car on track more. Id like to hear CWs input on this one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 (edited) An absolute hoor of a job! Best of luck Paul, I fitted a complete superpro kit to my car due to certain bushes being kapoot. But for my purposes it was certainly worth the grief Edited June 1, 2010 by pedrosixfour (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy-No-Knee Posted June 2, 2010 Share Posted June 2, 2010 Very very intresting...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted June 3, 2010 Author Share Posted June 3, 2010 well if i thought the first ball joint was tight it had nothing on the passenger side, despite beating the living c**p out of it with my mate (sorry about the finger Jon ) it refused to budge, i was left contemplating taking the hub off but thought one last effort today, i left it overnight soaking in WD40 which due to the downward angle just kept running out so i made a temporary damm from blu tack as per pic one and left a small gap at the top, pic two shows where i hit the ferker with a punch, i also got some heat into this area being very carefull not to go near the boot, final pic shows weapons of choice, copper bar, dont be a hero trying to hold this by hand use some mole grips and 4lb lump hammer, and if you have girlie arms go to the gym a few weeks before you plan doing this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted June 3, 2010 Author Share Posted June 3, 2010 used my modded tool on this one again, lube it up to the absolute excess to avoid nic'ing the boot get some tension on the joint then whack the yellow cross (as per Homers post) and it will come apart easy, a tip for avoiding damaging the boot in pic two, use a scissor jack to lift the whole suspension unit up and this will allow the boot rubber to un-load itself allowing the tool to slide in easier, anyhoo thats it for today as i have a hot date with an 8 year old up at Windermere and Beatrix Potter world Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted June 6, 2010 Share Posted June 6, 2010 I fitted the steering rack polybush kit from wifbitz and it failed during the Mot for to much play???? QUOTE] You must have had the wrong ones on there then? Superpro bushes come with a 3 year 60000km warranty so if there were faulty you can get them replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted June 7, 2010 Author Share Posted June 7, 2010 (edited) After doing a bit of research i found the the right grease for the job of pumping the bushs full with my new nipples, the last thing you want on anything plastic (urethane included) is anything petroleum based as it will destroy it quite quickly, this is an American product i found and surprise surprise a quick search on ebay came up trumps, any silicone/ sythetic based grease should do the job, if you dont install any nipples R2 supply a shed load of grease so dont worry. Third pic shows number 2 control arm bush which was by far in the worst condition (on both sides) all the other bushs required minimal clean up but this one really took some work, i used a bearing scraper, a sharp flat bladed screwdriver and flaping 3M emery wheels to clean it up, the new bushs need to be a push fit into the housing so keep trying them, if you have to force the new bush in with the vice you haven't cleaned the bush up enough. Forth pic shows rather disapointingly the R2 kit does not include a a new shock absorber bush and if i had known this in advance i would have replaced it as well, the old rubber bush is still servicable though so i left it as is, of other note in this pic is the back of the ball joint had bad corrosion and needed a lot of chiping away to get to good metal, i also drowned everything in rust eater prior to a several coats of zinc rich spray followed by smooth hammerite. Last pic shows the ball getting treated to new grease, pack it in with a steel rule and rotate the ball in all axis to take the grease into the joint and get some in the rubber boot as well, you need to be absolutely spotless doing this as you dont want crud in the bearing Edited June 7, 2010 by paul mac (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted June 13, 2010 Author Share Posted June 13, 2010 right onto the fronts and i initially got off to a flyer with everything coming apart well, first pic new cam adjusters, second pic i marked all the old adjusters and took a pic as a reference so as not to get confused by any existing marks, even if you are getting all the alignment done straight away i still think its worth trying to get everything as near as possible as you still have to let the suspension settle and get to the garage. Pic 3 my modified Halfords ball joint splitter is doing a sterling job but getting a bit bent now, it only has two more joints to do so hopefully it will last, pic 4 is where it all ground to a halt, the lower arm front adjuster came out fine (the first one yet to come out without grinding) however bussiness as usual as the rear one was stuck solid , the pic shows the best position to get the slitting disk in, however i found it tricky to get the disk in for the joint nearest to the centre of the car so chopped the protruding bolt off then attacked it with my die grinder untill i had enough clearance to get the arm out. This bush also proved a biatch to get out as i thought the rounded part of the inner sleeve was part of the arm, the centre has a "fat" bit in the middle so wouldn't push out easily so i resorted to the a blow torch to get rid of the rubber, once the centre was out i put a hack saw slit in the inner bush then knocked the hell out of it, then waisted the rest of the evening watching England draw to the Yanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted June 13, 2010 Author Share Posted June 13, 2010 once again the ball joint was spot on so took the arm to work and grit blasted it, before and after Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted June 13, 2010 Share Posted June 13, 2010 Nice progress mate If you have any bushes remaining which are still in one piece they may be of some use to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 once again the ball joint was spot on so took the arm to work and grit blasted it, before and after That looks brand new! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 Good progress Paul - keep up the good work. Looks like you weren't as lucky as me on the front adjusters...although I did suffer with the rear toe arm bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted June 26, 2010 Author Share Posted June 26, 2010 when i took these off i was quite surprised at how worn they were, probably the most worn bit of the suspension i have removed, replaced with Powerflex and given the grease nipple treatment, i think i remember Wez doing this but in hindsight i dont think a nipple is really necesary in these bushs as they are so easy to drop down to lube anyway. Last pic, time to sit back and admire your hard work , last corner finished thank god, just need to put the rear ARB back on tommorow and a couple of rear brackets, anyone recommend anywhere in the north west to get it set up ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted July 1, 2010 Author Share Posted July 1, 2010 Got the bad boy set up today by Martin (m_life) at Sapphire garage in Manchester, cheers dude and have not really had chance to give it any "spirited driving" yet but initial impressions of the R2 bushs is good, yes they do transmit road noise a bit more but not in a bad way. I know the Teins have there detractors but i am impressed, i have them on the softest setting so far and virtually all the crash, bang, wallop has disapeared, it is a far nicer ride than my old Konis set on firm, all the bangs and creaks have gone and i dont think you realise just how worn the suspension is until you replace it, pic shows repair of my problem worn rear ARB, i got the worn section level with emery then epoxy'd stainless shim of the correct thicness on, good as new , if anyone wants any more detail on any part of this rebuild let me know as i have about 300 pics. Right then back to this thread http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=176778&highlight=throttle+bodies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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