dandan Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Put the 12 pots on the rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 It will actually be a cost saving, just put the tyres onto the discs. No need for wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Uk`s here,stock discs, braided lines, castrol srf fluid and good pads, i`ll never change to anything else for a few reasons, 1.I never get brake fade or a soft pedal. 2.To change to anything blingier/bigger i`d have to do away with my 4 sets of uk wheels with race tyres on. 3.I see discs as consumables as with pads, i get roughly a year out of them with pretty hard usage trackdays etc, a pair of front discs from toyota is £120, price up some ap`s or equivelent your looking at over £400. So to sum up imo the only downsides to uk`s are they`re quite heavy, they don`t look as good as after market ones err thats it really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Uk`s here,stock discs, braided lines, castrol srf fluid and good pads, i`ll never change to anything else for a few reasons, 1.I never get brake fade or a soft pedal. 2.To change to anything blingier/bigger i`d have to do away with my 4 sets of uk wheels with race tyres on. 3.I see discs as consumables as with pads, i get roughly a year out of them with pretty hard usage trackdays etc, a pair of front discs from toyota is £120, price up some ap`s or equivelent your looking at over £400. So to sum up imo the only downsides to uk`s are they`re quite heavy, they don`t look as good as after market ones err thats it really. I've got all those things Si, but I keep getting fade and judders... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 I've got all those things Si, but I keep getting fade and judders... Warped discs? What pads are you using? You shouldn't get fade if the pads are good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveL Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Porterfield R4S pads don't fade on track so they'll be fine on roads. I used to used them on the road and were perfect - no warmup time to bite either so safe on the road even though they're track pads. One thing only slightly mention (Chris I think) ... Tyres! You can have 'carlos fandango' brakes and if the tyre are shite, you'll just slide or not stop if ABS is enabled as it wont be able to find any grip. So please don't spend +£2000 on your 6/8/10/12 pot conversion and stick nangkan crappers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveL Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 I've got all those things Si, but I keep getting fade and judders... is that on track or road? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 I've got all those things Si, but I keep getting fade and judders... It must be the way you`re using them:), seriously with that combination you shouldn`t get any fade, what pads are you using btw, i`m on performance friction 97 compound , great pad but very dusty and unfortunately discontinued, i`ll try portefield next? as for juddering have you checked the runnout, if you`re getting it with new discs aswell you could have a warped hub flange, i took 1 of my front hubs out and had it machined true for this reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJI Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 just to back up bignum's reply there... warped discs do occur time and time again if you do not treat them 'correctly'. ie. after hard use, don't have the car stationary with your foot brake pressed... and try to avoid standing water. Another thing maybe that you have some moisture in your brake fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Warped discs? What pads are you using? You shouldn't get fade if the pads are good. Happened with stock pads (pad fade), Endless CCX (boiled fluids), _and_ Porterfield R4 (race pads shouldn't catch fire! I was black-flagged at Llandow for this) Porterfield R4S pads don't fade on track so they'll be fine on roads. I used to used them on the road and were perfect - no warmup time to bite either so safe on the road even though they're track pads. One thing only slightly mention (Chris I think) ... Tyres! You can have 'carlos fandango' brakes and if the tyre are shite, you'll just slide or not stop if ABS is enabled as it wont be able to find any grip. So please don't spend +£2000 on your 6/8/10/12 pot conversion and stick nangkan crappers! I've got R4 race pads right now and Toyo T1R tyres all round - I have the space to get 255's on the front, that ought to help. is that on track or road? Both - day after Llandow they started juddering, but in fairness the car's been at the mechanics ever since so I haven't figured if that was a one-off. It must be the way you`re using them:), seriously with that combination you shouldn`t get any fade, what pads are you using btw, i`m on performance friction 97 compound , great pad but very dusty and unfortunately discontinued, i`ll try portefield next? as for juddering have you checked the runnout, if you`re getting it with new discs aswell you could have a warped hub flange, i took 1 of my front hubs out and had it machined true for this reason. Good point - I'll see if my mechanic has a runout gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveL Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Happened with stock pads (pad fade), Endless CCX (boiled fluids), _and_ Porterfield R4 (race pads shouldn't catch fire! I was black-flagged at Llandow for this) I've got R4 race pads right now and Toyo T1R tyres all round - I have the space to get 255's on the front, that ought to help. Both - day after Llandow they started juddering, but in fairness the car's been at the mechanics ever since so I haven't figured if that was a one-off. ... sounds like heat dissipation issues, to boil decent fluid (if it is?) and what sounds like warping discs you may well need some ducting to aid cooling. I take it you only get fade on track? Have a word with Paul about the R4 pads - they should be fine. What discs are they? (presuming that the calipers are UKs?) If they've started juddering after Llandow then deffo get them checked as Bignum suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sams Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 I was always under the impression that rears must be smaller than the fronts (not just the disks) as it would upset the brake bias? If the rears have more or almost equal to the front it can spin the car?? Dunno how true it is but heard it from more than one source. i got 2 pots with 266mm discs on the front and back of my impreza and there great and with abs it exellent for braking on corners lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L33 Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 i got 2 pots with 266mm discs on the front and back of my impreza and there great considering its a family wagon which can reach speeds of 40mph on a good day cheers for all the help and advice tho guys. im going to go with the uk if there good enough but make sure the disks, pads ect are of a very high quality! some one mentioned tyres, im looking into the r888, but been told there terrible in the wet. just need some thing to hold down the possinle 600bhp my car will have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sams Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 thanks lol i got a kid so it a sensible choice, and speed not everything as most you can do is 70ish lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveL Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 cheers for all the help and advice tho guys. im going to go with the uk if there good enough but make sure the disks, pads ect are of a very high quality! some one mentioned tyres, im looking into the r888, but been told there terrible in the wet. just need some thing to hold down the possinle 600bhp my car will have ... good man - it makes sense! R888's - only if your going to track the car. They're fine to use on road to get to and from a track (and somewhat entertaining in the wet!) but you don't get anywhere near the tyre temps that are generated on a track to get the full use out of them. They're pretty good in the wet as well on track, but that's another thread . There's plenty of road tyres that will hold the kind of power you will have. I personally don't have a recommendation but I'm sure others will help out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Toyo T1-r's, Eagle F1's, Falken 452's There are others but those come to mind first. The first 2 i would say are the better option, i've never tried falken 452's before now so i need to reserve judgement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 (edited) Toyo T1-r's, Eagle F1's, Falken 452's There are others but those come to mind first. The first 2 i would say are the better option, i've never tried falken 452's before now so i need to reserve judgement First and last are not suitable. IMO. Goodyear F1, Bridgestone RE050, Michelin Pilot Sports, Pirelli PZero's...they are what you should look at. Premium Power = Premium Tyre. 4 patches of rubber with life or death results...choose carefully. As for the brake decision...go for the lightest setup you can find which has a UK sized swept area and sufficient heat dissipation to cope with your driving. Reduced unsprung weight via lighter calipers and disks are the best part of having AP/Brembo's (along with fade resistance). UK brakes have one downside, they are heavy. Edited July 2, 2009 by Alex (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkR Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 First and last are not suitable. IMO. Goodyear F1, Bridgestone RE050, Michelin Pilot Sports, Pirelli PZero's...they are what you should look at. I've had Goodyear F1 and Michelin Pilot Sports. Both very good tyres. I think the Eagles lasted longer though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 First and last are not suitable. IMO. Goodyear F1, Bridgestone RE050, Michelin Pilot Sports, Pirelli PZero's...they are what you should look at. Premium Power = Premium Tyre. 4 patches of rubber with life or death results...choose carefully. I always thought toyo t1r's were regarded as a cracking tyre. They are recommended on here and on the IMOC forum often. I put them on the MR2 for the wife thinking they were excellent. Whats wrong with them? I know they wear down a bit fast as they are soft but i thought that would be good for grip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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