A few wee jobs to do

[TLicense]

Tomorrow I've got a few things to do:-

 

1. Fit IAT sensor and calibrate AEM

2. Solve intermittant high idling problem (I've not really looked into this all that much but I'm thinking IACV, so I'm going to strip the idle control valve and give it a good clean, as I imagine 12 years of use has probably gummed it up good and proper, well see....)

3. Change the diff oil (Oh this should be fun)

4. Repair temporary single din Blitz powermeter/boost controller bracket (As I said this is my temporary one until my fully recessed carbon one is finished)

5. Wash the bloody thing (It's absolutely filthy!)

6. Not fit the Thor dsl as it's not arrived yet... (C'mon Pete, this is WAY overdue now!)

7. Decide what I'm going to do with the power aerial, as I ideally want it to go up only when the radio is in use, but at the moment it fires up whenever there's power to the headunit.

8. Order undertray from Envy (reminds me I've got to find the part no's tonight)

 

There's a hundred other things to do, but they aren't going to get done.

 

So has anyone got any advice about getting this idle valve off and cleaned out?

[SimonB]

No adivice about the idle valve, but on no.3, get yourself a pump. I found one in my local motorist centre, a little plastic hand pump designed to pump air, water or oil. Makes it an absolute doddle. Otherwise getting the new oil in is a right PITA.

[Class One]

If you find a solution to No 7, let me know, i have the same problem.

 

Thanks

[Ian C]

Idle control valve is easy mate.

 

Two 12mm bolts, a small 1/4" drive socket is best used for access. Loom plug off, big fat hose off, watch out for the two coolant hoses under it, they are best taken off last. Don't forget to take out the rubber washer and the one way flap after you've removed the valve. They will probably be still insid ethe plenum or stuck to the valve body.

 

Brake cleaner, Gunk, et al should help shift the grot.

 

-Ian

[Terminator]

Just changed my diff oil today. The old fluid was in good condition and very little deposites on the magnet. Not a particularly difficult job. Don't take out the filler plug first or the fluid will come out very fast.

 

 

7 easy just fit a manual override switch.

[SupraStar 3000]

HAH HAH,.. so glad I have a NA You don't get 1/2 the problems.

 

Class One and TLicense .

I too had the aerial issue.

Simply find the power from the headunit to the power for the arial and add a rocker switch from Halfrauds (£5) and problem solved

The wire you need is blue or yellow (think its blue)

I put my switch inside the center glove box thingie and made a little shelf for some other gadgets like power to the amp and remote level control.

Need any more help or pictures just ask

[TLicense]

Well didn't really get half as many things sorted as I wanted, but heh, I've still got tomorrow!

Stripped and cleaned the IACV, but no joy on fixing the high idle. I'm starting to think dodgy tps. I'll whip that off tomorrow. Re-calibrating it with the AEM is a piece of piss.

Coudn't do the IAT, I thought I should be able to replace the stock one, but the threads are different, and I don't have a tap for whatever size the GM one I've got is. Hopefully I'll get this sorted for Monday.