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Floor Tiles


Schtuv

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The lino in my kitchen is covered in claw marks from cats, and the carpet in the bathroom strikes me as impractical (due to getting wet) - time for some DIY floor tiling :)

 

The only problem is I've not tried this before. Hm. Some questions which I'm hoping someone can help me with;

- I've got a level wooden floor under the current coverings (it's a fairly new house). Should I stick tiles directly on to that?

- I've seen the tools available in B&Q (diamond blades, tile clipping pliers, etc.). Should a left handed monkey be able to cut curves in tiles to go round bathroom fittings with these, or is it a very skilled task?

 

Once I've got answers to those things, hopefully I'll get on and JFDI :) Any other advice is appreciated!

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I'd a hardboard layer first, at least if it all goes tits up you can can just lift that, else you'll be trying to scrape mortar off your floorboards. You need a little saw to cut curves, I've tried "clipping" but I always get it near perfect then snip a big chunk off ruining everything.

 

You can get very nice laminate flooring that simulates tiles, far easier to install.

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I'd a hardboard layer first, at least if it all goes tits up you can can just lift that, else you'll be trying to scrape mortar off your floorboards. You need a little saw to cut curves, I've tried "clipping" but I always get it near perfect then snip a big chunk off ruining everything.

 

You can get very nice laminate flooring that simulates tiles, far easier to install.

 

Hardboard makes sense, but I don't want to raise the floor too much. I can just see myself a few years down the line trying to take that stuff up!

 

I've looked at (and helped put down) laminate at friends places, but it's just not quite 'right' for me, I'm afraid.

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Think about lifting the sink and toilet, laying tiles, then placing back down over them. A lot quicker and easier than trying to make tiles fit round them..My old man decided to tell me this after I'd done the bloody thing:taped:

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I'd a hardboard layer first, at least if it all goes tits up you can can just lift that, else you'll be trying to scrape mortar off your floorboards. You need a little saw to cut curves, I've tried "clipping" but I always get it near perfect then snip a big chunk off ruining everything.

 

You can get very nice laminate flooring that simulates tiles, far easier to install.

 

SORRY MATE YOU DONT USE HARD BOARD NEED HALF INC MARINE PLY HARD BOARD IS CRAP WHEN IT GETS WET IT JUST BRAKES UP, YOU WILL ALSO NEED A FLEXIE TILE ADHESIVE AND FLEXIE GROUT IF YOU NEED ANYTHINK GIVE ME A PM OR SOMETHIN AS I WORK IN A TILE SHOP THANKS LEE

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Is your tile shop near an airport?

 

He's not making a wet-room, it's some bathroom floor tiles, laid with waterproof mortar and grout. You may work in a tile shop, I know someone who works in a porn-shop but it doesn't make him the worlds best shag.

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Is your tile shop near an airport?

 

He's not making a wet-room, it's some bathroom floor tiles, laid with waterproof mortar and grout. You may work in a tile shop, I know someone who works in a porn-shop but it doesn't make him the worlds best shag.

 

nice one mate what do you put in the adhesive mabe water, when you put the adhesive on to the hard board the wood will expand and brake up the the adhesive drys and will separate from the wood also if he ever has a leak the floor will be fooked

also grouts are water resistent (sorry about spelling)means they will not wash away but water can still get through any more questions

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SORRY MATE YOU DONT USE HARD BOARD NEED HALF INC MARINE PLY HARD BOARD IS CRAP WHEN IT GETS WET IT JUST BRAKES UP, YOU WILL ALSO NEED A FLEXIE TILE ADHESIVE AND FLEXIE GROUT IF YOU NEED ANYTHINK GIVE ME A PM OR SOMETHIN AS I WORK IN A TILE SHOP THANKS LEE

 

100% correct and make sure the ply is well screwed down, the more screws the better!

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Make sure the marine ply is reasonably thick. The joker who tiled our kitchen used 3mm ply and there is movement that has broken all the so called flexible grout. I'll have to have the whole lot redone at some point......:(

 

It's only 2 years since we had it all done!!

 

H.

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In my experience ceramic tiles on a wooden floor are a recipe for trouble. I would never tile with ceramics on anything other than a concrete floor. Maybe there is a flexible adhesive and grout nowadays? In the past even a 3/4 inch ply floor over a 1/2 pine boarded floor on 8 inch timbers expanded and contracted enough in a bathroom for the tiles to loosen. I swore never to ceramic tile on wood ever again after that expensive fiasco.

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nice one mate what do you put in the adhesive mabe water, when you put the adhesive on to the hard board the wood will expand and brake up the the adhesive drys and will separate from the wood also if he ever has a leak the floor will be fooked

also grouts are water resistent (sorry about spelling)means they will not wash away but water can still get through any more questions

 

I was just winding you up 'cos of the caps lock thing, but actually I did once use some waterproof adhesive. It didn't require water, but once open to the air had a short working time and got very hot as it went off. I had a few spill dobs due to my cack-handedness with tiling and they would not budge, absolutely rock hard and unmovable even with an orbital sander.

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I was just winding you up 'cos of the caps lock thing, but actually I did once use some waterproof adhesive. It didn't require water, but once open to the air had a short working time and got very hot as it went off. I had a few spill dobs due to my cack-handedness with tiling and they would not budge, absolutely rock hard and unmovable even with an orbital sander.[/QU

 

 

didnt realize the caps was on sorry sounds like that could of be a epoxie bugger to clean of lol

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