wkdtime

ELectric is the best way, but the easiest way is mechanical, the problem witht he mechanical is that when the car has not pressurised i.e no positive boost whens its been left overnight you sometimes get a a metal clicking sound which i think is the IACV valve fluttering, i maybe wrong, but its nothing to worry about. once pressurised it goes away. plus points, louder exhaust (if that floats your boat), linear boost, 100 miles extra from a full tank (for me J spec). Bad points, no boost until around 3-4k RPM, doesnt bother me though. But if your Auto it maybe even worse. Ideally for manuals.

Thank you, some positive feedback, from tried and tested!

I use it all the time, 1 year now, i tried both and love this (ttc), i dont know why its always put down like this, this floats my boat, i like the fuel economy as im a student, power is still there if i want it, exhaust note is awsome. I cant fault it, but hey what do i know? i only been driving like this for a year and havent changed back. Mine is a 6 speed btw.

dont know if this helps, i have 9.5" rears with 19" diameter with offset of 35 and with 275 tyres and the wheels rubbed the arch quite abit, i had to trim the arches.

My cars on 19's looks wkd go for it, you'd only be thinking about it always when you get the 18's, "should i have got the 19's instead"?....i jumped from 17's to 19's, handling is not as bad as people make out, make sure you get the correct off set and correct tryes. Or for best handling id go for the 14.5's, they might have a problem clearing UK brakes though

nice read, thanx guys

Whats the difference between this and the budget kit? anyone know what these kits (Boost Logic Basic Turbo Kit) are like with say a T67 and how much BHP they're good for with supporting mods? cheers fellas

glass is always shinier (spell check), even compared to brand new J spec.

395BHP at fly, but as its a UK, that propably equates to bugger all torque....with all that 'power to weight ratio' thingy...lardy buggers arent they...lol

I think we should name and shame, maybe then they'll pull their arses into gear!

Maybe repost, like i care anyway http://videos.streetfire.net/hottestvideos/0/D998628E-2EB1-4903-A614-99CF30B38B08.htm

They should light up, if they dont then you have dried up joints, just remove the upper trim, 4 screws or 5 i think, then remove the pannel that doesnt light up and resolder the joints. Its a common problem with them mate.

Try 8K for a decent auto, aero about 8.5k+.

welcome mate.

Defo take you up on that

Could eat of em...will kind off anyway:D

Lol.... Its 9am, im at uni, got an assignment to hand in by tomorrow and an exam...drugs maybe a good idea right now

abflugtastic:D

Stainless steel, High grade aluminium will rust readily if the protective layer is deeply grazed. For road use, exhaust weight has negligeable effect on the cars performance TBH, even less when running big power.

welcome to da club

Just saw the spec...awsome , are the engine internals stock? cams?

lol I'll two's that

Thanx mate, if you can just pm the supporting mods and what you used for mapping fuel, 550 at the wheels? damn thats some road car, whats that equate to at the fly wheels? i dont have the balls for that, i was aiming for something within 500-550 at fly wheel.

Dont worry Terry havent forgotten you too. Loved your old car BTW!

Cheers mate, will do that