Myles

The airbag shouldn't go off that easy . There's two little plastic covers , one on either side of the wheel that come off to reveal a lug nut . Loosen these & the bag/pad should become loose (eventually) . You'll find some yellow wiring loom that connects to the airbag & needs to be disconnected . As far as I remember there's a bracket that may need to be removed also . The safety aspect is entirely down to you (obviously), but I've done it & I reckon that it should be safe enough on a car that had not seen any accidents without being properly repaired (replaced sensors , control unit etc.) . I'm sure some would say that it's a risky business (& there is obviously some risk) but if they were that tempramental , they shouldn't be in a car in the 1st place . I am open to criticism about this . ps. I might be interested in your old steering wheel

There is an american product , I can't remember the name right now (I think it's made by Evans cooling systems?), that can be used successfully on a non pressurised system .... Evans is marketed in the States , but I don't know of any distributers over here . Neither do I know if it's Toyota gasket friendly ...... ie. it may/may not be better to stick with the red For-life stuff???

Myles trying to get in on the act: I'd recommend trying to sort the problem , rather than treat the symptoms , with standard Toyota parts (where available) ...I wouldn't have thought water wetter & the likes would cure your problem .

Pweaonally

from recent threads it may be possible ,though not necessarily Blitz kits, but is it adviseable?

...err , I think Eyefi might be selling some 17"s

They're relays .... you'll probably find that they're `downstream' of the ecu fuses (I take it they are marked ecu , since you pulled these) .... it would have the same effect as pulling the ecu fuses & probably easier to get your fingers around to pull:)

In case anyone's interested :previous thread ... who was that knowledgeable chappie anyway? (....slips off into the crowd before anyone notices ....)

AH! ...I'm getting somewhere now ... sorry , just ignore me .

ATF is only 3 letters , so no good ... I tried transmission AND level AND checking ...and found myself back here here we go again ...

once again Martin , thank you ...... fingers crossed . I keep getting the `problem with the database' screen when searching...but I shall persist.

Can anyone tell me the correct procedure for checking ATF level? I know the car must be level & at operating temperature , but is it also necessary to put the selector in each position for several seconds 1st & then check it with the selector in neutral? I think that's how it was done on the TH350 GM transmission ... but that's a 30 year old design. Also , would overfilling cause the rear seal to burst on a trackday any more so than a few 130 mph bursts on the motorway?

beastsfromtheeast , great pics!

...err , your warning triangle must be intermittant ...it's supposed to come on when you hit 90mph too to tell you to slow down! ...you wanna get that checked mate

When I've done this , it just displays the warning triangle thingy for a few moments & retracts the spoiler

-problem:D My digital camera is Noahs arc spec , but it can make images o.k. I'll do it on the week starting 10 June ...if it's dry and if I can get it up (oooeer!) onto my little ramps

Thanks a million Guys:)

There's an automotive paint shop near me (obviously no good for you) , but they should be able to make up a good match , apparantly it's not as difficult as it used to be - if that's any help

I can see the obvious one , nearest the bonnet catch , there's one near the foglamp end the bolts to a bracket on the wing (I think .... is the 3rd one underneath?

While trying to remove my damaged a/c pipe , I've come to a stop . I think I'll need to remove the front bumper/nose-cone to get access to the condensor(radiator type thingy), `cos it's the hard pipe that leads to the bottom of it that I need to replace . Any tips/help/suggestions on removing the bumper? I take it I'll need to remove the headlamps - and I can only see one bolt for them , how many bolt are used to afix the lamps? edit: its got the active spoiler to add to the complications

Agreed, they shouldn't have left it like that! The chances are that even if you did take the stering wheel off , you would't get it 100% right as it slips onto a `cog-like-thing' with (guess) 30 odd possible positions to put the wheel back on at . Track ends can be adjusted much more accuratley

Steve , as I understand it , lag is caused by having a lowish compression engine breath through a strangulated exhaust (it's got a couple of turbos in the way)...I'm sure it is probably compounded a little by having a greater volume of air in the i/c pipework for the turbo to compress , but these losses may be preferable to the hotter air charge & increased risk of detonation caused by placing the i/c on top of the engine . I suppose it's a compromise between lag & heat-soak !?

Blimey M8 , you've been busy ...I've bin in the pub! thanks for distracting peope from that questionable area I got myself into ....you know , about whether or not the mkiv has forged pistons ....OOPS!

as the earlier 4agze engine had them ... complete with ceramic coated tops .There , I've left myself wide open ...please feel free to contradict me as I never actually took the pistons out of the 4agze to check (blind faith ....follow where I lead)

I dunno! .... you just read the full extent of my technical/mechanical expertise