SimonR

It's a Soarer with a 1JZ-GTE ECU. EMBlue. The stock system is two tiny parallel turbos, not sequential, but I now have a GT3040 and 800cc injectors (stock 380cc). Now theres a barrel of monkeys.

Hmmm, I thought that you could see when it was in closed loop due to the fluctuation in AFRs as it bounces either side of stoich. It stops doing that a lot lower than 4,000rpm on my car. Maybe it's over 4,000rpm on the 2JZ ECU? I'm using the AEM wideband plugged into the 2nd airflow input.

Not intentionally anyway! It was two separate threads of thought really. However, Ian’s confirmation has given me more food for thought. I’m finding that the 16x16 mapping on the Emanage may be something of a limitation. For example, the default scale (on my kit anyway) for the Greddy pressure sensor is .5 to 3.5v. Sounds fine but the cell labelled 1.7v will, as far as I am aware, cover the range 1.6v to 1.8v (the cells above and below being 1.6v and 1.9v respectively). This covers the range from roughly 1.5psi to 4.25psi. Similarly, the next cell will cover the range from roughly 4.25psi to 7.5psi. These seem quite wide ranges to cover in one cell. To illustrate that point, I’m currently getting AFRs between 14.3 and 12.6 in the 1.6v-1.8v/2750-3250 rpm range, all controlled by one cell (values in adjacent cells notwithstanding). Now that I know that the additional injection values from the last cell are used when the boost goes ‘off the map’ so to speak, I’m thinking that I may be able to introduce some more resolution in those areas that may require it at the expense of those that may not (if I can find any). Hopefully I’m not talking complete bolleaux here. Please tell me if I am.

Thanks Boss. You saved me mucho messing about there.

Interesting. Add more cells 'on the fly'? I wasn't expecting that. I was assuming that it might just 'peg' the additional injection to the last known value that was mapped for. Thinking about it a bit more, I would be able to see what was going on from the Emanage logs anyway. They would tell me the sensor voltage and the amount of additional injection being used (if any). So as you say it's just a question of getting the voltage high enough on the sensor to test it. Thanks.

Thanks, that the voltage scale that I was referring to. So, it looks as though it's actually the Greddy 4 bar MAP sensor. Don't know why I was convinced it was 3 bar. I'm hoping that the mapping bahaves as you have suggested. I just want to confirm it before I do something horrible to the engine.

I posted this one on the Yahoo Group but no luck. Anyone? "The Greddy pressure sensor is described as a 3-bar sensor but I've just been looking at the voltage/psi table that was posted in the Files section {of the Emanage Yahoo Group} and it shows from .54v (-14psi) to 4.46v (+43psi). This means that the sensor covers a 4 bar range - that's 4 bar absolute or 3 bar relative. If it's a 4 bar sensor then it means that I can map up to 3 bar (gauge) rather than two bar. Does anyone know the correct situation? Thanks." Also, does anyone know what happens to airflow/injector adjustment if you go 'off the scale'. For example, if I mapped additional injection against the Greddy sensor up to 3.5v and for any reason I exceeded that voltage in operation, what would happen? Would the injectors revert to the stock map? Would they continue with the last adjustment?

Try Tim (STT) at http://www.club-jap.co.uk/

When you say 'fitting kit', what do you mean exactly? I have a spare aluminium flange but not the circlip or o-ring.

Just outside Sevenoaks.

I need to do some fiddly work at the back of the engine bay. I can’t reach it from above and ramps/axle stands won’t give me enough room for the things that I need to do. I’m thinking that what I really need is access to a proper lift/hoist. I’ve never had to do this before and I’m not sure how to go about arranging it. Does anyone know a garage/workshop in the Kent area that rents out time on their facilities? Alternately, what do the rest of you do in these circumstances?

As far as I am aware, I am the only person in the UK to do the 1.5JZ so far. It isn't as straightforward as is sometimes suggested.

Does anyone have any recomendations for custom exhaust fabricators in the south of england? I have a full 3" Tanabe system which I imported used from Oz for £500 a couple of years ago. It is mild steel though so after a couple of UK winters it's full of holes. I'm guessing that it would be cheaper to have someone reproduce the existing design and keep the existing cat and resonators than it would be to buy the same system new. Does anyone have experience in this area? I was also thinking of increasing to 3.5" or 4" diameter but I presume that I would then have to also replace my 3" downpipe and that could get expensive. Good exhausts for the Soarer are hard to find over here. There are plenty of noisy ones about but none with decent sized pipework. Your thoughts please.

Thanks, but CJ sorted me out with the WG. It's the connection thingies that I need (which I now know are called hose tails).

Great, thanks.

Argh! It would probably have been a good idea to have attached the compressor reference thingy before the wastegate went onto the engine. Ho hum. Has anyone got the attachment thingy to plug into the hole thingy in the piccy to allow me to connect to the compressor? Failing that, can anyone please give me the proper name for it so that I can buy the right thing? I bought three wastegates to get where I am now so I'm anticipating something of a saga.

Ho ho! No, it came like that. I seem to remember reading somewhere that it's heat-sensitive paint for trouble-shooting purposes but that could just be me getting confused. I think of it more as a tasteful purple.

I bought this from Secondjump earlier in the year but it won't fit on my car (not a Supra) without a different bellhousing and probably other work. It's therefore not been used at all since I bought it so it's still in whatever condition it was then. It's the one on the right in the pic, next to my current one (on the left) so you can see why I'm selling. I'm looking for £350 + P&P.

Owen Developments stepped into the breach. It can't have been much fun for them having some idiot ring and say that "the bolt-thing and washer-thing on the round bit in the middle has fallen off". They sent the right bits out immediately and it's not as if I have ever bought anything from them. Credit where it's due. It's this kind of thing that will persuade me where to spend my money when it's time for a new turbo.

Having managed to overcome most of my problems setting up the Emanage, I now find that I am left with a kind of lift-off stalling. The symptoms are a little odd. If I lift off the throttle slowly the engine seems quite happy but if I lift off sharply at high engine speeds there is the occasional cough and if I lift-off sharply at low speeds I get the occasional engine stall. I’ve been playing with the Anti-Stall function without much in the way of noticeable results so far. The documentation on this feature is sh*te. Does anyone have any general tips on how I should be approaching this? NB: It's an auto with MAP, not MAF.

Thanks matey.

In the pic there are (I believe) two coolant temp sensors. Can someone please advise which one feeds the ECU and which one feeds the dash temp gauge? My temp gauge is acting up. It takes a loooong time to reach normal temp on startup. I thought that this may have been a dodgy thermostat but the gauge sometimes drops to zero for no apparent reason, no consistency to it. I'm hoping that it's a sensor problem as I don't fancy replacing the thermostat on this engine. I'm also hoping that this will help with my appalling cold idle! It's a 2JZ-GTE block BTW.

Where did you buy yours?

Yes...well...that's a bit misleading but a bolt and funny washer-like-thing seem to have decided to part company with my GT3040. Anyone got any they can sell me?

'kin ell! The MAP sensor wasn't connected properly. Looked OK but hadn't clicked into position. Engine behaviour changed immediately. No fuel pressure problem after all. Only noticed this after spending £133 on a new Lambda sensor. Anyone want a used one? This situation probably wasn't helped by the fact that the No 1 knock sensor wire had come adrift.