Fulcrum2000

Cheers Scooter yes it is a groove all the way round the crank end which is causing the leak, and as both my old one and the newer recon one has it its clearly a weakness on GTEs. I will forward those links to the mechanic to see what he thinks, shame there is no UK supplier of those uprated seals but thanks so much for the info. I'm also waiting on CW to come back on his high performance ones so hopefully I will get there in the end. My drive will thank you!

Thanks for that Keron. And yes, new oil and water pumps. It was fitting the new oil pump that made the engine go, apparently the improved pressure made everything else fail!

Hi All So I had a rebuild after the black death some months ago and since then my 93 TT JDm has had a slight oil leak. I'd just had my drive done so it needed sorting and after several visits to the mechanic its still there. It seems to be coming from the crank end where there is a seal of course where the crank leaves the block, and the crank has a slight groove which lets the oil come through very slightly. Everything I bought for the rebuild was new other than crank and cams which are like hens teeth to find now for this car and clearly this is something which happens to Supes as my old crank which I still have, has a larger groove in exactly the same place. That said, the solution is to find a larger seal which will fit over the groove and also still fit the housing, has anyone had this problem and know what seal or what car/engine that would come from? You would save me and my mechanic many many hours if you did and I'd say a thousand hail marys for you in return.....

Can anyone confirm if the 'UK Brakes' we all refer to are the same as LS400, according to many sources they are. It would follow as they are on a sister company car, are 4 pot and look identical to UK Supra brakes.

I think it must be me then, I've always been an incredibly late braker and maybe its just perception, but when you make your tyre choice to maximise braking potential I guess you think the car will stop on a dime and mine has had new pads, discs, fluid and lines so you cant get more serviced than that! I will keep an eye out for UK ones and uprate my pads in the JSpecs in the meantime

Yes I would agree, I think I will keep looking for UK brakes and sling these CW pads in and see whats what Scooter, you've been very interesting on this. I have to figure out if UK calipers fit under my 18 Avons too. As to tyres, I actually chose the ones with the best brake distance testing, Pirellis on the front and Falkens on the rear, according to the tests you cant beat this on a Supe but I am wondering if going to Pilots or something is better? Not sure how these tyres could come out better on a test if they are though.

I got this from the thread on here with all the testing which showed both kinds of brakes to be equal but JSPecs to fade out much quicker excuse my ignorance if thats not true, I'm on my third Supra and as far as I know they've all had JSPecs. I'm always looking for UKs but do they actually have much better performance then? The same thread indicated all the big brake kits were either the same or worse than standard as well which I was surprised at as it was on my list to put brembos or similar on the old girl but at 4k or so and no improvement thats clearly not going to happen if its true!

Maybe I've been spoiled by the massive Beemer anchors and its me and I think its been well established that JSPecs are largely similar in performance to UK Spec but fade much faster so hopefully the CW pads will be just the thing. I've noticed a slight whistling when going along under twenty sometimes recently which I suspect is a brake slightly sticking (it does it in and out of gear coasting so obviously brakes or running gear so changing the pads all round will hopefully get rid of that annoyance too. Do you think ventilated discs help Dnk?

Good point but when mine failed the internal valve allowed it to leak slightly but it always appeared around the neck as its raised all round it seems to be the obvious path of least resistance but just saying what happened to me. Mine was rated to 1.3bar as well and my car was totally stock at the time too.

I changed my rad cap for one of those with a pressure gauge built in on my most recent Supra, it lasted about a week. I'd say you're getting some good advice! Easy way to tell is spray a bit of WD40 around it before a journey and you'll get beading water if its going.

Thats good advice once again Scooter I feel like the Supra should have had a bit more stopping power out of the factory and it does seem all the big brake kits actually dont improve it much bizarrely. Now I'm nearly full BPU (still have to find someone to key in the BC to get the last bit of boost but close) I do find it a bit of a freight train effect in that it picks up superbly but then slowing to feed back into traffic is a bit of a chore, its the exact opposite in my 535D, it picks up nicely but could be a smidge faster but its brakes are so over the top it makes up for it in all late braking situations and they never seem to fade either. I'm a similar age to you so I love a blat but I dont want to end up hanging out of a tree as some grotesque bauble so I dont go crazy like I used toso maybe JSpecs will cut the mustard with CW Pads all round. As final question and perhaps one I should also have asked Chris whilst I was on with him is discs, are the standard discs the best you can get on JSpec or have you gone ventilated or third party? I've had over 40 cars in my time and I think the Supras discs are the 'smoothest' I have ever seen which is surely a tad counter productive? I put ventilateds on one of my MR2s though and they acted like a cheese grater....

I had this in my TT Auto with stock, losing it slowly over time and the mechanic couldnt crack it, then the rad got damaged and forced me to replace it with another stocker and it went away. Not sure what knowledge you can glean from that but it sounds similar. It was needing a top up every 10 days to two weeks depending on mileage and if the lead foot came out.

Great info thanks Scooter and also everyone else, so helpful. So I think moving forward as I've pushed it right to the edge of BPU I think its the best way forward for me to get one, so with that in mind, does anyone have one they want to sell and what price. I know you have one scooter are you interested in selling it, or Swampy, Keron etc? Has anyone ever had one fitted, what kind of price are they labour wise? I've had my whole engine rebuilt so it would seem a bit underkill maybe to not get an LSD. Truth is I thought I had one already and all TTs had one so now I do feel like it needs resolving.

Are they actually an improvement particularly on a Supe by the way? I appreciate they'd improve cornering but would they improve grip on take off for a quarter etc? Some say (sounds like a stig intro) they actually slightly reduce take off speed

Or does one of the numbers tell me whether I do or dont have it? Mines a JDM and I have read in a Supra book these had them so I am hoping mine does too

Is there a website where I can check my VIN then?

I know its been covered to death but excuse the maybe ape like questions here. Supras are superb but in my opinion the one area where they could be better is braking and with that in mind: 1) Are all Pads equal, I know with calipers it can only apply certain pressure etc but assumedly high end pads makes significant difference to OEM? Anyone know which is best? 2) I have JDMs all round at the mo on my TT and want to go UK, anyone have a set and do they just plug and play? So if I change all round the bias remains perfect? I know they arent any better than JDMs but dont overheat so quickly. I have 18 inch Avons I assume they have decent clearance? 3) I have seen Supras with LS400 4 pots on, are these essentially the same brake system as I can get these new, anyone have any experience/knowledge of this?

Does anyone know if all TT Supras came with a LSD whatever market they were released for? I cant see any reason why it wouldnt be the case and according to the internet they did and I know it was an option on Natties but just wondered if anyone knew.

Hi All finishing I have the latest HKS EVC 6 IR Boost Controller and am in the midst of finishing fitting it and wondered if anyone can tell me if its a switched earth signal or switched feed signal for the controller? If anyone has a 5 or a 6 or IR I'm sure it will be the same and could answer this it would help. Cheers

Yes I think with everyone's help on here I may have cracked it, thanks so much T2 and everyone, I'll report back if I get any other issues.

The only one I can remember is WOT which was 11 point something so it sounds like its bang on hopefully I rang one of my brothers mates who does all this too and he said it could go late nines at WOT eventually if you keep it open but shouldnt be able to go any higher, sound about right?

Hi Ric, already done 1200 miles off boost run in. I'm stupid but even I'm not that stupid. Engine compression is perfect we tested all the normal things very recently as part of the final inspection after the run in period ended and its had a new fuel pump, all filters, fuel lines and even the turbos had been removed and checked. Fortunately I'd spent a fortune on it before the engine went so it was pretty obvious the car itself was healthy now and it was setup or settings. I had a bit of a brainwave after I went on here and got all the good advice though that the petrol in it had been sat there for 5 months whilst all the rebuild etc went on so I took out all that I could and totally filled it with new V Power and now the AFR is reading in the 14s at idle which is perfect it seems? I took it for one quick blat up the bypass after it was warm this morning and it never went lean on first or second turbo and returned immediately to 14s at the next junction in idle and at worst only goes early 15s now on idle it seems. I think its obvious I understand very little of how this all works but whether it was coincidence or the petrol had just gone down in 'power' I dont know. Maybe tomorrow it will all be wrong again but it seems to be perfect. Feel free to comment on this ridiculous situation. As a final question to all you good people before I hopefully go off to some sensible and reliable Supra motoring (I wont be flooring it everywhere dont worry for my car this was just a test period) just before I set off for my fact finding mission to see if it had all worked I had the 'genius idea' (please dont judge me too harshly) that I could test it in situ without moving by flooring it and at WOT with no load at all it did go high lean, I assume it just confused the hell out of the ECU and this just happens so is this ok on an AFR? As I say, straight after when driving on WOT it showed nothing but perfect readings but I thought I would just ask you whilst i have you all gathered and having a good chortle at my incompetent bumbling.

I bought both cams but the general consensus here was the difference is so minimal it's fine. The mechanic also looked into tolerances eye and said it was too. The forged parts are bigger for plus half but have the same other dimensions so surely should be fine? The rev problem looks to be achievable thanks to that info received on here so after that it's just figuring out if the FAR figures are within acceptable parameters at 1.2

So how about it guys is T2 right. Swampy and many others have said they are almost identical so who is right here?

He's took it out and at 1 bar says its fine - to me it feels like so much power is going through it but strong you can almost feel the boost now throughout and especially after when its venting afterwards, similarly to an audible response on the BOV I had in my previous MkIV. Only feels good. So I need to watch out for it going lean on WOT that assumedly is a sign of damage in some capacity or faulty setup? I'll pass on the RPM data and get him to do that, he said it could be done form the rev counter but preferred another way for some reason. The reason I am not going for more power is twofold, most people who go beyond BPU seem to say they regret it the car is less nice to drive day to day and becomes jerky apparently, and I have driven a big single and see what they mean albeit it is more powerful, but the big deal is the autobox, I want to stay auto and I've been told 550 is about the limit it can run so much beyond BPU is pretty much out of my handsanyway I guess? Has anyone dropped a different autobox in a JDM to go higher power?