Flavio

I'd recommend the NGK 6097 (BKR7E) for a non-stock car, i.e. one that runs higher boost. Any decent car parts shop should be able to get them and they are quite cheap. I replace them whenever I change my oil but then again I have a single turbo which is a bit harder on the plugs. If you have misfires at high boost try a smaller gap. Flavio http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid14/p142c9363fa12dc3dab98011a9003dc88/fde38afb.jpg

I also had this problem when I removed my active spoiler because of the FMIC. If I remember correctly it also stayed on after I had removed the spoiler ECU, but I'm not entirely sure. Anyway I solved the problem by putting a resistor in two of the pins of the plug that is at the front bumper. Don't ask me which pins but with a little experimenting you should be able to find out. Basically you are fooling the car into thinking the spoiler is still there. Flavio http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid14/p142c9363fa12dc3dab98011a9003dc88/fde38afb.jpg

Go to www.mkiv.com and read through the tech articles. Flavio

Pull some hoses and get a fuel cut defencer (Greddy BCC). This will increase boost and you WILL notice the difference. Flavio http://www.mkivsupras.co.uk/

Lord Mycroft, Just let me know when you have a set for me and I'll transfer the money to you by bank transfer or PayPal. If I can't trust a Lord ... Flavio

I'm interested too, please email me the details of how to get them. Flavio http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid14/p142c9363fa12dc3dab98011a9003dc88/fde38afb.jpg

So tell me then! Flavio

After fitting my stock exhaust a couple of weeks ago after having sold my HKS Hiper Carbon I immediately noticed an increase in low end torque. I cannot figure this out. I am a layman but I always thought that the less back pressure the turbo had the faster the exhaust gases could flow and therefore the faster the power could come, i.e. more torque at lower rpm's. I am sure Lord Mycroft can explain the error in my theory. Flavio http://www.mkivsupras.co.uk/ (Edited by Flavio at 10:24 pm on April 8, 2002)

The 245/45R18 is about 5,3% higher than the stock 235/45R17 so IMHO it is not a good size to fit. Flavio

Wow, Lord Mycroft, I guess there are not a lot of things you don't know everything about. I'm not upset though, I'm always willing to learn. I guess European rules are stricter in this respect than the UK rules, but at least they don't throw you in jail for a year for speeding! Flavio

I have had the HID lights ever since I got my Supra running. It passed the Dutch MOT test without any problems although as Lord Mycroft says they are illegal. I doubt very much if the average inspector will see the difference, especially if you hide the transformers a little bit. Even if you installed a self levelling headlamp system and a washer system, retrofitting HID's is still illegal. You are not supposed to change any lighting on your car but like others have said it's also illegal to remove your cats and drive faster than the speed limit ;-) Flavio http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid5/p142c9363fa12dc3dab98011a9003dc88/fde38afb.jpg

Instead of venting through the canister I have put a venting hose directly through the bottom of the engine bay so my tank can still vent. I removed the canister because I needed room for my boost controller solenoid box. Flavio

In case you want a new canister I have removed mine from the car and is available. Flavio http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid5/p142c9363fa12dc3dab98011a9003dc88/fde38afb.jpg

9,668PSI Check out www.convertit.com Flavio http://www.mkivsupras.co.uk/

Mycroft, Just curious, where do you get that kind of information? Flavio

I've been driving around without the liner for almost a year and have not noticed any bad effects. I think removing the liner will clean up the look of the enginebay when the bonnet is open. Flavio http://www.mkivsupras.co.uk/

Check out http://mkiv.christurner.net Flavio

Paul, Shouldn't you fit the FJO before going to the rollers, it would help in tuning the fuel maps, wouldn't it? Where are you going to fit the LED display of the FJO? Flavio

I mostly use my oil temp gauge to see when the engine is warmed up and I can give it some stick! I have an EGT gauge as well but in retrospect I should have gotten a wideband O2 sensor in the first place. I have an FJO wideband on order now (www.fjoinc.com). It will really save you dyno time (and money!) and tuning on the street is better than tuning on the dyno anyway. When running high boost it is the most important gauge. Flavio http://www.mkivsupras.co.uk/

Guys, I've been dealing with Dusty Womack at MVP Motorsports for more than a year now and have spent a considerable amount of money there and this is not typical behaviour. Shortly after I bought my Supra in October 2000 I sent out emails to a lot of internet Supra shops and Dusty was one of the very few who took the time to answer my questions. Most of them didn't even bother to reply. He usually answers my emails quite promptly and if he doesn't he has a valid explanation for it. If he doesn't respond quick enough it's best to give him a call at his direct line, +1 940 683 3800. I think part of his problem is that his business has grown tremendously the last year. He also bought SupraForums last year and that has grown considerably too. Believe me, if you think MVP is bad you haven't tried doing business with Suprastore.com, trying that will really frustrate you. Flavio http://www.mkivsupras.co.uk/ (Edited by Flavio at 8:46 pm on Mar. 3, 2002)

Alex, http://www.arcinter.co.jp/ It's only in Japanese though. Flavio

Alex, I wan't entirely happy with the way it hung under the car (too low) so I've sold it on. My ultimate exhaust would be an ARC Titanium but that is horribly expensive, it costs three times as much as the Veilside. Flavio

Alex, The APEX'i gauge is electronic, I was told they are more accurate than a mechanical one, go figure. I haven't tested the Power Meter against a rolling road but I think it's fairly accurate. I don't think it will work on a rolling road because there is no acceleration when you're on a rolling road. Drive train loss I set to -5 although it baffles me why the Supra is the only car in the manual for which you have to put in a negative number, all the other cars are either 0 or a positive number. I shall test it soon with different drive train loss numbers to see what the difference is. I am now inclined to believe that the number the Power Meter gives is too optimistic with a negative drive train loss? I have set the weight to 1750kg. My car weighs 1606kg according to my registration. With a heavyweight like myself and fuel, stereo and other stuff I think 1750 is pretty accurate. I'll do some runs tomorrow in different gears and with different boost levels. I am running a stock exhaust for the moment (I've ordered a Veilside Titanium exhaust from Japan) so the numbers won't be optimal. Flavio (Edited by Flavio at 6:13 pm on Feb. 28, 2002)

Is this an Apexi boost gauge, reads say 1.45bar when you are boosting 1.2 in reality? If so, mine does the same - if you figure out a fix, let me know -Ian Ian, Yes it's the APEX'i 60mm EL electronic boost gauge. I have no idea what causes this or how to fix this. Flavio

Strangely although both use the same vacuum line my APEX'i electronic gauge reads higher peak levels than my SBC-iD. I haven't found an explanation for this yet. Setting up the SBC-iD and Power Meter is easy, just follow the manuals. It's all menu driven so pretty easy, much easier than the DSBC. You just need to experiment with the gain and ratio settings on the boost controller. Higher gain means faster boost rise, higher ratio means higher boost level. The SBC-iD also has a mode where you just set the boost limit in bar, although I don't know if this works on sequential turbo's. I had problems with boost not being kept down at prolonged full throttle runs (with the SBC as well as my previous DSBC) but this could well have been because I used the power steering line for the vacuum. Also I suspected my stock wastegate was not a 100% anymore. With my SP57 any boost limit I set is really held so I know the Blitz works well in that respect. If you have the Power Meter fitted next to the SBC-iD (so the infrared works) you can program them to vary maximum boost levels relative to the speed of the car, i.e lower boost levels at lower speeds to avoid wheel spins and higher boost at higher speeds. One feature of the Power Meters that I also like is that you can calibrate the speed display (I used a handheld GPS) so you know exactly how fast you're going. My stock speedo is about 10% wrong. The dash functions (0-100km/h, 0-200km/h, 0-300km/h, 0-200m, 0-400m, 0-1000m) are nice as well if you want to do an occasional drag run. I agree with the 1.1 and 1.3 bar maximum boost levels for the stock turbo's. I know one guy in Poland ruined his engine by running 1.5 bar all the time, so be careful. An EGT gauge is a good thing to have. Flavio