xm 80

isn't it 300Nm that hold the center bolt to the crankshaft??

so you just want to unscrew the bolt on the crankshaft? if so why not use the method some of the members on supraforums.com use....i know it's a bit "risky" (IMO) but it works for them. just use starter to crank the bolt open. as far as i recall they unmount the fuse for the fuel pump get the bar in place (bolt on crankshaft) and just "try" to start it a few times. not sure if this really works well, but i read a couple of times (from several guys) that it works just fine.

thanks man again

thanks Chris for the help !!!! just looked up the torque for this nut and it's around 110Nm or so......which should be managable by hand.

i mean u can probably easily use a spanner to tighten it up, but i'm not sure if i can use my torque wrench and a nut to tighten it up...or?!?

but how else do you tighten up the ball joint on the control arm? there is basicly no space between the axle and the ball joint and the axle?!?!

Hey guys, i'm in the need of changing my rear upper control arms out i read a tone on supraforums.com and the manual itself on how to do this, but it seems like some people do it different than mentioned in the manual? i'm not trying to waste a whole day on try and error, so do you guys have any advice on how to do this the easiest way (really don't want to get the driveshafts out unless i really have to)? it's not clear to me either if you have to get the rear coilover out of the way too (it's not mentioned in the toyota workshop manual). and last but not least do you use a puller or a brass drift (this was mentioned in the manual) to get the driveshaft out of the hub. thanks in advance guys for any help

it truelly is

that's some awesome work you did there !

pretty nice car!!! you prob. already mentioned what type of lights/blinkers you have installed, but i would really like to know the manufacturer of those day light runners.

tempted but i really don't need 12 injectors

yes please

just came across your build thread and i'm very impressed!!! I really like the intake you build for the NA engine.i wanted to build a ITB NA Supra i got my hands on a set of lower runners which i already cut (all i need to do is to machine them down so all of them will be the same height). Ever since i did that i decided to go a different route with the car and prob. go with the Garage Whifbitz turbo kit. so instead of througing the already cut lower runner away i wanted to build a FFIM like you did! i already have a machine shop (here at my working place) where i can weld und fabricate stuff, but i'm not sure if we/ I can build such a upper plenum like you did. did you build that thing by yourself or have you bought one and cut it to fit? would be really nice of you if you could help me out here.

i guess you are better off with the supraforums.com forum (it's more US/Canada based). 2000$ seems about right for fixing. i know it doesn't help but never buy cheap wheels! i mean you relate your live on them...sooo think about buying cheap knock offs.

hi everyone, i was planing on going the ITB route on my NA Supra, but still getting stuck at the runner length and other different question...sooo maybe someone here could help me out!?!? did quiet some research on runner length and all sorts of stuff involving a ITB setup and it seems that most of the ITB Supras are using the 4AGE Blacktop throttle bodies and a "runner length" (measured from the flange of the oem intake to the point where the throttle bodies are mounted) of about 9cm or so +/- 1 cm. as for my setup i wanted to go with the Jenvey ITBs, since the Blacktop ITBs are hard to find these days and you need at least 2 sets of them to build one set with 6 ITBs. so and here's my question, can anyone help me finding the correct runner length? i'm a bit confused on how people calculate these runner lengths, cause i have seen numbers as high a 30-40cm to have a peak torque at 4000rpm (really don't want to rev the engine all the time up to the redline to make some power). next thing would be the volume of an airbox needed for this setup (flame suit on!). since i live in germany it's necessary to be in a decent noice level (+/- a few dB really don't matter here). there are a few equationts out there to calculate this too, but still i'm not quiet sure if my calculations are correct.....not to mention that the space inside the eingine bay is also pretty restricted. as far as my measurements and calculations have gone i have at least 1-1,5cm of clearance to the strut housing on the passenger side. another question would be, do you guys think that a Syvecs would be a good choice to go for a ITB setup? if everything works out with the airbox i could possibly use a MAP or MAF sensor based engine "tuning" ..or?