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Thanks Chris, yeah I read about it and it's apparently not a very good way, not precise/reliable enough. Will continue diagnosis tomorrow.

Ok so after investigating... it turns out it's a Zener diode setup. Does that make any sense? The Zener diode would let flow the current over 3.9V and by pass the MAP signal. We'll see tomorrow if removing the diode solves the cold start issue, but I doubt it. Is there a way to test the diode with a simple multimeter? A first test showed the flow wasn't getting through in any direction. Anyway, I think we will have to check the rest of the wiring as it seems other stuff has been done!

I'm sure yours is not the problem because I actually haven't got time to fit it yet! The custom FCD from the previous owner is still on it, I believe it works like the HKS ones, which I read could alter the idle settings. The previous owner assured me it's fitted to the MAP sensor. I will let you know next time I check the wiring around the ECU.

That's exactly why I already got one from you Chris

If it's too much fuel, I should see black smoke coming out right after it fires up shouldn't I? I will check whether it's the case, might have not seen it. I really want to avoid changing the SAFC parameters I think I will remove it at some point, although I like the monitoring feature. I also read it could be a faulty coolant temp sensor, maybe its connector moved when the work was done.

Here is the job done.

I'm having cold startup issues after changing the intercooler pipework on the car. Basically the car had a FMIC, HKS SSQV. I have replaced most of the parts so the engine bay looks OEM again. Only the boost controller is still on. I haven't touched any of the vacuum lines other than the boost controller ones. The FMIC is now replaced by the OEM pipework and a CW intercooler, and the HKS BOV by the stock bypass valve. Symptoms are, the car cranks and will sometimes fire (but not enough so that it starts). To start it I need to press the pedal. It looks to me that the engine isn't getting any fuel unless the throttle is open. The car has an Apexi SAFC fitted, and a custom FCD. I believe it works like the HKS FCD, but I'm not sure. I think the TPS isn't the issue as the SAFC shows a throttle opening of 0% when closed. The SAFC was reinitialized before the first startup, unfortunately I didn't write the previous settings down, maybe should have. After startup the car idles without any big problem, though the RPM get higher as it warms up (from 800 to 1100 RPM). Once warm the idle fluctuates by a few RPM around 1100, but nothing alarming. Could the custom FCD be the problem? The car is EU spec so has the MAF meter. We've tried different sensor settings on the SAFC without any noticeable difference. It used to start right up before. I have a CW FCD ready to be installed, perhaps this will solve the issue. Any hint would be much appreciated! Thanks Alex

Thanks for that thread!

Yep that's a bit too much! Thanks guys, I will see with them. Has anyone ever used japanesewheel.com? The site is about a year old so there isn't any review of it... But the prices for new JDM wheels they list are very low. I exchanged a few emails with them, seems legit...

Looks like Paul Walker's Supra (at 5:30)

Hello, So the Supra I bought came with a set of four Volk TE37 18x9.5 +22. This offset is a bit too aggressive in my opinion, especially at the front. They came off a R33 GTR. I know the right sizes would be the following: Front 18x8.5 +30 Rear 18x9.5 +35 I was already advised to contact JDMdistro.com, as they have warehouses both in Europe and Japan. I put a deposit I am waiting for them to find the right sizes, but it takes time. They would then organize a courier and exchange the wheels. My question is, does anyone know of other distributors that might do the same? To increase my chances... Any advice would be much appreciated. Also, if anyone is interested in buying the wheels, I could give it a thought. Just pm me

I had the dry joints problem all over my warning lights cluster and fixed it without any problem. I was just wondering if there are other weak joints on the car I should know of? Not that I have anything not working properly, but you know, sometimes you don't notice until you read about it. I'm very paranoid when it comes to 20 year old cars

Chris told me 2 other members are looking to buy his SMIC so with me and you that would 4, I'm about to order one so get in touch with him

I was wondering how the AFM connects to the air box since there is no clamp holding it apparently, and I found this picture So that broken piece holds 2 bolts! I still wonder how it completely seals the hose though? Does it turn in it and then those 2 bolts tighten it?

Thanks! I'm looking for new front wheels though, they are the wrong size and I have stretched tyres for the time being, which I hate.

I have 18" on mine, I think 19" would be too big.

I just bought a used stock air box and a part of it has been cut off. Does someone know what it's for? Is it just to protect the AFM from dust? Note: the Jspec doesn't have this kind of pipe. The part in the EPC: Cheers

Haha yeah, ok, I see what you mean Wasn't being impatient or anything. I just did the diagrams myself for the thread and it's funny how a diagram makes everything clearer. I took a good look at them after posting and it makes sense. Well, maybe others were wondering, hope this helps somehow.

I think I'm gonna answer myself... The VSV either closes or opens, whereas the EVC either bleeds or opens. This means the second diagram wouldn't work, because the actuator could never be fully pressurised. Am I right????

I'm trying to understand something... I have a HKS EVC-S on my car and this is how it's hooked up: (Note: I didn't bother choosing the right place of the COM or NO ports in the drawing.) Now, my question is, why wouldn't it just replace the original wastegate VSV connections? Like that: I'm guessing because it would then mess with the EBV VSV? I actually don't have any reason doing this, it's just something I've been wondering

Cheers for the feedback. I will post in the wanted section.

I was wondering if anyone could confirm this is how the original UK spec owners manual and wallet look like? Also, are the instructions specific to a RHD car? I am looking for one for my euro spec LHD Supra but it needs to be right, these are hard to find ! Got no luck with Toyota dealers.

Thanks for the replies guys. And yup, if anything let me know, much appreciated. I have also sent an email to Toyota Europe but no reply so far... I will post in the wanted section.

I'm looking for a paper copy of the engine and body repair manuals as well as the electrical diagrams, for Euro models. I have a PDF copy of the German manuals and there's actually many differences with the US manuals. (electrical especially) I believe the Euro and Middle East manuals are the same. I asked a couple of French Toyota dealers but unfortunately it's not produced anymore. I saw some posts about CJ (?) manual printed copies but that was a while ago. Any ideas ? A reference number maybe... should be written on the front pages (as for the german ones) Thanks!

Alright thanks for the input, i'm gonna go for it. I want to change them because this +22 offset on 9.5" is just too much in the front. After some measures i think +30 on 8.5" would be the best, but 8.5" +22 would probably also be ok. The 9.5" +22 look great in the rear.