parasight

Why the conrods specifically?

Theoretically, yes. But then cup ->slip + slip-> lip.

Fair enough. Didn't look at that because I wasn't buying it. I've always wondered about the speed signal, though. What's the workaround that people use with the BMW boxes? I assume the R154 has a generic Toyota sensor and output.

There's a T56 with super low miles on eBay right now. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T56-Aston-Martin-Vantage-Gearbox-7800-miles-/281656493515?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item41940905cb Get this and one of those Australian adapters and you're golden.

I found that Google's car insurance bit beat both of them by a fair margin again, so yeah the websites are strange.

Hello, As the inside of my engine bay is skanky place with all forms of muck, possibly all the way from Japan, I thought I'd spend the weekend cleaning it up. I'm arming myself with Swarfega or Jizer (not decided yet) degreaser, a pressure washer, nylon brushes, and elbow grease. Other than covering the alternator, battery terminals, and spark plugs + leads, is there anything else I need to cover up? Or is this just a completely bad idea to begin with, and should I go to a professional instead? I have a 5 speed NA, with the dizzy and all that.

Fixed the trip meters. Seemed to be a loose connection somewhere, popped them out and back in, and everything seems fine now. Thanks for the advice, fellas! Now I (don't) look forward to my next ECL and MIL!

UPDATE: the splice worked perfectly - code's disappeared, and I can do speeds over the previous ones without throwing up a code or error. BAD: My trip meters have bloody disappeared. Odometer counts up fine, no codes anywhere, but my trip meters A and B don't exist!

Oh well, sound's gone away. Checked the PS fluid, seems to be ok. The COLD indicator was covered when I pulled it out, cleaned it, dipped it back in to check. I can't seem to find an A/C line anywhere, so I'm wondering if my car has this deleted. I didn't do the obvious, which was to check all the ancillaries that the belt went to. :o

Thought about it. Car's lowered and has a lip in front, and I didn't want to damage the body. The car's, that is.

Hahahaha nope, I've taken weight reduction seriously.

Thought it wouldn't be the PS pump because it doesn't change while turning the wheel at all? Aircon hasn't been used in a while, so unless the pump works on an electromagnetic clutch that is now constantly on, I wouldn't think that's the case? Either way, I could be wrong. I'll check the levels, check the belts, and maybe even open up the intake manifold to check whether it isn't something in there. Fingers crossed it isn't major. Not the most fun sound, though.

Hello (again!) I've got this strange whining/moaning noise coming from the engine bay. It seems to come from around the throttle body area, at the Y-pipe join on the NA intake manifold. I could be wrong, and it could be from another bit of the bay. It's pretty loud, and you can hear it inside the car while idling. It doesn't stay all the time, and it doesn't remain when it's revved. The best way I can think of describing it would be a couple of Walbro fuel pumps at full flow. I've attached a couple of recording I took, one of the noise itself, and one of the noise, and it stopping when the engine turned off. I put my phone right above the Y-pipe, so all you can hear is the noise. Any help or advice would be appreciated! I'll even take the odd NA barb! P.S. I've had to zip the audio files, since I can't seem to upload them otherwise. Noises.zip

Thanks stevie_b! Odo does count up - though now I'm not sure how accurate it is. I did a bit of reading on the webz, and I'll try the wire splice and see if it works. Graham, I braved the light and did 55 mph the other day. It was a proud moment.

Hello, I have an NA J-Spec 5 speed - pre facelift. When I get upto 50 mph (80 kmph) and stay there for more than a few moments, my big red MIL triangle light comes on, along with the orange CEL on the side. Obviously, the first time, I absolutely bricked it and pulled over quick. It disappeared when I restarted the car. This has happened many times since then, and it always goes away when I restart the car, even if it is instantly. There are NO engine codes stored as far as I know, because the CEL does not flash when the ignition is turned on. I've searched around a bit, and checked the brake fluid as a result - it seems to be fine. The alternator seems to be charging fine as well, from my volt meter/gauge. I'm thinking it has something to do with a missing active spoiler? I don't know if my car ever had one, but I read a few articles on how this could be the case. The speedo still reads in kmph, so there isn't a converter installed yet. Am I missing something, or is it just the spoiler thing? If so, how do I stop the MIL+CEL from coming on. As you can imagine, it's quite the mood enhancer to have your car tell you that something is wrong, every single time you get on the motorway!

Damn. What's next? Ever considered doing the gearbox conversion professionally?

Seems to be holding up so far.

Didn't get what you meant by the hosepipe around the block bit mate? Yeah I have a rad fan shroud.

Cheers guys. Peered into the radiator, could see all the way down to New Zealand literally. No fluid of any kind in sight . Popped down to Halfrauds and got myself some top up, should solve it. Will do a system flush over the weekend and keep an eye on things. If none of this works, the replacements begin.

Hello, I've just begun driving a 95 NA 5 speed, and it's not troubled me too much so far. Today, however, was another story. I left my headlights on, and then obviously the battery drained out. I jump started the car and sat it to idle for a while. About an hour later, I noticed the coolant temperature needle dangerously close to the red. I gave it a little throttle - about 2500 rpm for 30 seconds - and it cooled down, I'm guessing because of the higher fan speed. Drove it home (about 6 miles) and the temperature stayed at the halfway mark as always. It's a bunch of dual carriageways with a few lights in the mix, so I was able to get decent airflow in, and kept the revs above 2k anyway. I haven't checked the fluid levels since I've begun driving the car about a month ago - stupid, I know. Assuming the coolant level is fine, is there anything else I should check? I would think I'd need to replace the thermostat and the radiator cap, just to be safe. And do a complete radiator flush as well. I'm just wondering if I've missed something here. Open to suggestions, advice, and some mockery.

Also, R34 GT-R wheels? BBS forged, unless I'm mistaken.

Hello everyone! I've just signed up, and I thought I'd say hi. I'm looking to join the ranks of 2JZ owners, and this board is a step towards that. I hope to learn a fair bit here too. See you all around!