Johnny176

Thanks Mike. Hoped to use the wires at the TRAC ECU, this is the box beside the main ECU in the passenger footwell labelled Throttle Control isn't it? Is this diagram saying that there is an orange cable going into this box on pin 6 which is the signal for the front left wheel sensor? Remove this box completely, leaving just the loom connecter. Take Orange on pin 6 for my signal?

Hi Folks, I have a 1993 J-Spec TT 6 speed. I'd like to wire a front wheel speed sensor into my standalone ECU but I'm struggling to find the wire to tap. Post #7 here said I should be able to pick the clean signal from the cables going into the Traction ECU located in the passenger footwell beside the main ECU - "These are all on connector T9(A), and the Traction ECU is right next to the main engine ECU" I have searched the interwebs trying to find where this T9(A) connecter is actually located. Thought it shouldn't be too hard since it looks like it should be a 26 pin connector in the passenger footwell that runs cables to the big box labelled "Throttle Control" beside the main ECU. This should be a similar wire that some folk will have tapped into for the Race Logic Traction Control. Can anyone give me a steer in the right direction please?

Hi Folks, I seem to have a short in my car. Its only happens when I turn the key to ACC. I have traced this to the Pink and Blue cable that comes from the ignition barrel but I cant see where this goes and I'm unsure what is powered from this. I've had a look through the forums and cant find anything on where this runs to. Plan would be to individually isolate each system / device powered from the ACC and to check no cables have been somehow cut or rubbed through. Can anyone point me in the direction of where this cable runs to and what is powered from it? Radio, blower, dash maybe one to ECU ect Thanks, Johnny

Update: Went and got R134 gas and a gauge with nozzle. Hooked it up with engine off to low side and got 0psi. Filled it to 20psi and did AC ecu check, no warning lights. Started car and turned on AC and full fan and left running for a few minutes when I checked again the gauge showed 0psi but the compressor was running and laptop showed AC request on Continued to fill gas until pressure on low showed 10psi at idle with compressor running. When I revved the car to 1500rpm it went back to 0psi. Held car at 1500rpm and continued to fill gas until it showed 20psi Air from the vents is ice cold when the AC is running. Finished off by setting the ECU to increase rpm by 150 when it sees an AC signal and to automatically disengage the AC clutch when throttle position is over 50% Heading out a run tomorrow so will check pressure over the next while to see if it drops incase there is a leak somewhere in the system. Thanks for the help guys

Thanks Rider, that's a pretty detailed reply on how to check the system! I'll leave it disabled for now until I get the gas checked and clear any fault codes showing on the AC ECU first. Hopefully its just low pressure rather than nothing in there at all I'm hoping I don't have to dismantle anything again Scooter! Abnormal refrigerant pressure doesn't tell me me much so will get a gauge on here and see what it says. The Pullup resistor option is enabled on that digital input Chris so you could be on to something there. Would have thought the AC ECU would be sending the 12v signal to the G4 for the AC request so might have to double check that. I'll get any faults cleared on the AC system first to rule that out Thanks for all the feedback guys will let you know how I get on

Thanks Squiffy, wasn't sure on how AC systems are re gassed. Thought the compressor would have to be running to get the gas round the system. Looked over my settings tonight for the AC control on the Link and have it sorted now so the ECU sees the 12v input coming from the AC ECU and does what it needs to. However... the voltage coming to the Link G4 ECU pin 34 from the AC ECU is always 12v whether the AC is on or off, this doesn't seem right. If the AC ECU didn't want the system running due to a fault ect surely this should stick to 0v? Can anyone confirm this?

It is reading 11.5v all the time with A/C on or off. Nightmare!

Found this on http://www.clublexus.com/forums/performance-and-maintenance/727672-2jzgte-wiring-harness-made-easy.html Pin 34 - A/C , Air Conditioning (AC) Request Signal , Input , This pin is used to request that the AC be turned ON. Having an AC request input and a separate control output allows the engine ECU to turn the AC OFF under some conditions, such as hard acceleration. This pin is connected to battery voltage to request that the AC be turned ON. The AC request signal is usually generated by the climate control ECU, however connecting this pin to battery voltage will not guarantee that the AC is turned ON Gonna try tapping into that wire and see what happens

Thanks Wez, that's close to another pinout I have. PIN 34A looks like it is the signal wire telling my G4 to engage the AC clutch. If I was to splice into this and give it 12v I might get the green light on the ECU and see the compressor run. This would tell me that the fault is caused by the AC button on the heater control console or is something to do with the AC ECU

Evening Folks, Was trying to find the fault with my aircon yesterday. When I hit the AC button it lights up but the compressor doesn't run. It will engage if I pull out the relay and stick a wire across it however, so compressor and all seems good. I'm running a Link G4 ECU so I can plug in the laptop to see if the ECU gets the AC engage signal - it doesn't. I did the test on the AC ECU by holding in the recirculate button and Auto button while turning the ignition on and I get the fresh air flashing for abnormal refrigerant pressure. I can't take this to the garage to regas tho since compressor doesnt run. I thought one of the buttons on the heater controls would send a signal to the ECU for aircon but after sticking a meter on the blue and red on the smaller G4 ECU loom connector I see nothing. This cable apparently is the signal from the AC ECU. I also tested each pin on the 20 and 14 pin connectors coming out of the back of the heater controls to see which one had a voltage change when I hit the AC button to make sure that even tho the light comes on its sending a signal but couldn't find anything. Can anyone advise where I should be looking or testing to see where the fault is? Which wire from heater controls to AC ECU is the signal wire, which wire from AC ECU into G4 ECU is input for AC signal ect? I had hoped I could follow the signal through and see where it stops but I couldn't even find it from the control cluster. I'm a little stumped. Thanks, Johnny

Yep 1 3/4 liters of Royal purple was put in when the box was put back in after changing clutch Flywheel looked in good condition, clutch was replaced because I went single rather than it wearing out. I thought a dodgy flywheel might have caused the car to shake and judder when on the bite butt this doesn't happen to me

No, I just had the engine idling

Serious Pig?! What did you do to resolve it or did you just get a new clutch? MKIV-Supra - I was thinking that initially as well thats why I tried jacking the back of the car up, if it wasn't out 100% the wheels would still turn

Hi Guys, I have a supra with a v160 box, a new stage 2+ Spec clutch and an OEM flywheel. When cruising about at or below 2500rpm I can select gears with no problem, if I was to rev to limiter and then try to change I need to force it into the next gear and it will always take close to 2 seconds before it will go. It doesn't crunch or sound unhealthy but it doesn't like high rpm changes. If I am sitting parked with engine running it will click into gear with no issues except for reverse. It will always need forced unless the car is off. When I'm on the bite (when I can find it) there is no shuddering or shaking, everything seems smooth and normal until I try to change gear at high rpm. I have checked the clutch is bled properly and fully disengaging by jacking rear up with engine running and putting in 1st with clutch in, the wheels didn't turn until I lifted pedal about 1/2 an inch. Anyone seen this before or can suggest something to check? Thanks, Johnny

Evening all I'm after a clutch for running about 550 - 600bhp. There's been a few good things said about the RPS street max here but I'm still unsure. Whifbitz had a Stage 2+ spec clutch which looked like it would be up to the job as well. I'll probably be launching it as well the odd time but it's a street car so not looking anything that rattles alot or needing huge amounts of leg strength. Any recommendations? Thanks

Ah ok, your's looks like a tidy job but as you said there didn't look to be much space left. Was just curious really as to how big a cooler I can actually get squeezed in or should I be aiming for positioning for efficient airflow and focusing on ducting properly rather than size. I must double check what space I have there with my IC pipes running round

Thanks Chris, that pretty much covers what I was asking. I currently have a 62mm single turbo which is only oil cooled, it's only been on short runs and only a few WOT pulls but I have noticed the my cam covers being extremely hot afterwards even with light throttle cruising before stopping. I do not have an oil temp sensor so I can't say what temps I have been hitting. Water temps have been sitting normal however this is from the stock gauge. The downpipe is zircotec coated and also has been heat wrapped. I have a turbo blanket on there as well but under bonnet temps get pretty high to the point where sitting idling for a few mins can see IAT's up to 70 degrees. I have since removed the manifold to get it wrapped as well. This and the oil cooler should sort temps out. Chris you said that 70 degrees for oil temp was too low, I had planned on fitting an 80 degree oil and water thermostat as the car will be seeing a fair bit of track use. Do you think this is still too low? Thanks

Afternoon guys, I'm looking to get an oil cooler fitted but I am unsure of best location. I've read people fitting a big one in the gap between the intercooler and radiator and others fitting it in the space infront of the passenger side wheel arch so it doesn't block any other radiators. In this thread post 8 pedrosixfour has fitted one infront of the arch but said it was a tight squeeze. What is the biggest cooler that would fit here? A 25 row at what width? If the car isn't moving much there isn't going to my much air flow if its sitting in front of the arch. If its in between the radiator and intercooler then the fan would always be drawing air through but I'd then have 3 coolers all using the same airflow... Anyone like to suggest what they think is best?

Its a Borgwarner bullseye power S362 Turbo, with a Garage whifbitz twin scroll manifold. Aiming for around the 550 mark however I'd be happy with anything over 500

Thanks for all the input guys, information on mapping is scarce! The map has configuration settings from V8KILR's map with a few changes to sensors to match my sensors along with the base map from the Link itself. I changed the injector dead times for 1000cc injectors and trimmed the mater fuel to set a steady idle afr My timing table which I linked above is the stock one, I have not edited it. I'm going to go with what you guys said earlier, a 3rd gear at about 3000rpm and advance timing in small amounts until I hear what I think det sounds like or even a new sound. I know this will be tedious first time round but it's important I get this right! Thanks for the tables Rickey, the first one for the stock TT had me confused at first, but its not really that much different from mine. The second one has a fair bit of extra timing over me. I got my new cam cover bolts and washers from Toyota today so I should be out this weekend to do a few runs. I'll keep you all updated!

I have a rough idea as to what knock sounds like but I'm sure the first time I hear it I'll know! I can hear this cacophony of sound you are talking about lol, can hear the cams and valves a little as well but no det as yet. Initially I'm after a way to be 100% sure that the stethoscope is working rather than me just not being able to hear it if there is knocking present. Yep my table goes up to 300kpa for 2bar, I'm not going to be running any more than 1.4bar or about 22psi. I had seen that function in the Link software but hadn't touched it since I don't have any knock feedback to give the ECU. As you said tho that would be really good to have set up incase as SupraV8 said earlier I get bad fuel or something has me running lean. As far as my figures go in the ignition table do they look normal enough?

Yep SupraV8, that sounds like a good way to do it. I've done a few easy runs so far and data logged it so I can see whats happening. I started with a base map and then adjusted from there to pull AFR's down as they were quite high. I'm running 14.7 while idling, 13.4 at 100kpa 13.2 at 120kpa and 12.9 at 140kpa. I know these are slightly rich but I don't want to do anymore until I know I can hear knock when it happens. Those are good points tho, I'll have to allow some margin for changing fuel quality and other things. I know what you mean tho, theres a good few things to look at regarding the mapping. I started to this mid august and its only recently able to drive at low boost. I'd hate to be the next guy with his engine in with you for a rebuild I like this safety margin Ricky, I'd hate to blow something up or melt my engine so taking it easy enough. I checked out the Phrmula KS4 and it looks a good job. I had looked at the Link knock block and the knock link for the same thing. What did you think of the KS4? Did you use it instead of the det cans? Think I'm going to go for the 30mph 3rd gear plan and add a little timing at low load and listen closely. My ignition table looks like this currently -

Sounds good, where would you recommend doing this rpm and boost wise? It's not going to plink at idle with no load will it? Are you suggesting using the Bosch knock sensor as a visual way to monitor knock while mapping or to provide direct feedback to the ECU? I'm running a Link G4 atm and have a seperate table that will adjust fuel trim depending on IAT using + or - values to stop AFR's drifting if under bonnet temps start to rise or its a hot / cold day. I don't have any correction for different types of fuel, I'd need a fuel flex sensor, switchable maps or allow my AFR to trim my fuel table accordingly. PLanning on keeping that one simple and sticking with 97 RON all the time.

Yep Rodger, I'm hoping I don't have to explain what we are at to any uniformed individuals Funny you should say that tho, I have a friend who has a MK3 with a 7M and his big end bearings went, he is also looking for a 1J or 2J to replace it with. Yep they do but I'm running an aftermarket ECU and I'm not using them anymore, I wouldn't want to try using them for listening for knock either. Everyone out there has said get det cans and listen. I always ran on 97 RON when I was TT - best I can get in NI. Now with the single I'll still run 97 but still need to map the ECU to it

Haha you know exactly what I mean Going down the road stethoscope in the ears and laptop on the knees. A friend and I are having a go at it, I'm not against getting a pro to map it but I just want to have a go myself. People keep saying I'm gonna wreck it but I'm taking it one step at a time and asking questions - so far so good lol The stethoscope is connected to a bolt hole about half way along the block about cylinder 4 on the intake side. The silicone tube is then run in through the passenger footwell. I can hear the engine running away but I have yet to hear any det. It's running slightly rich atm and only up to 4k rpm at 0.4 bar Was just curious how I can test for sure that I can actually hear det before I go any further. The low rpm's high load was my first plan but I guess I can scrap that People have said to listen for this crisp almost metallic plinking sound. Even found a few recordings from a Google search How did you test that your det cans / stethoscope was able to hear det before you got stuck in? Thanks