Hellstrom

Yeah a r154 should do the trick and takes quiet some abuse.

Ofc you dont have the Bore machince no need to get anything flow tested either. You Will need a build bottom end, 1100+ injectors a good fuel delivery. A turbo to suit your needs and about 1000 other bits and bobs start with one thing at the time. And remember rollcage for safety. Start with building the block, then cylinderhead, then turbo system, then fueling system. Just make sure you focus on 1 thing at the time instead of doing lots of things all over the place.

I dont really get it, some sound yellous about the lad. I dont think anyone think that investing alot of money in a car that has no real collectors value is a smart idea. But there is plenty that still do it. When is the time to live if not when you are young? Aslong as you are not lending money to get the build together. Aslo there is people that have no problem to get there hands dirty and do some or all work them self. WHY does it have to be so expensive? Björck in sweden is not a millionare nor does he have any sponsors. Hes running a 8 sec car. Some advice about the build and what you will need is indeed sound. But telling him what to do is just plain wrong he is an adult is he not? 800£ a month is a lot to put in to a car and thats plenty of parts if i have understood he is going to do most of the build himself. And sure part cost a fair amount aslong as you do most work your self its not going to cost THAT much. Not going to be cheap but still in that budget. There is alot know how on this forum and people often help so even if you have not built an engine before iam sure this forum can help you avoid most pitfalls. And you will learn alot aswell. Only down side i see is if you plan on doing most of the work your self it will take time. And working 7d/week is not going to get you alot of h in the garage. Your girlfriend will probebly get less time aswell if she is not involved in the project. I think you should aim lower and shoot for the stars. Good luck!

128£ on ebay free delivery

Well thats what i thought. Ill see what Chris Wilson says he was the one supplying the "OEM" seals a picture on the seal i got from CW. so could i get some reasoneble advice on how to go forward this? ill talk to whiffin to see if he is able to supply me with oem vss and ill see if i get them before the weekend and hopefully change them. then i will know for sure. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?265583-Engine-seals-CHEAP-CHEAP-When-they-re-gone-they-re-gone!! this is the original thread from where i bought the seals. ("fit non genuine at your own peril")

If turbo seals would it not leak more when the oil is warmed up (thinner) then cold and thick? And not be depending on accelerating or deaccelerating?

Yeah i guess any other suggestions?

Hi! i been searching but i want a few just to take a "look" into my specifik probmlem (sorry for starting yet another thread about this matter) My car is fresh rebuild,Engine changed bearings/rings/fastners/honed etc. Cylinder head has been rebuilt aswell same valves/guides but messured and ok accordinly to TSRM. symptoms. Cold engine startup big puff of blue smoke thins out after about 20-40sec Blue smoke on deacceleration (no blue smoke acceleration on boost) Intercooler pipes checked for oil but no more then a thin layer. iam not saying what iam thinking myself just want your opinions on this. Regards Johan.

Yes i agree with what you have said. inline6 has the longest crank and also the biggest need for a dampner i totally agree with this. But imo there really is not way in telling wether crank will be failing or holding up. Like i said i would never recomand anyone to not use one. but i do think that there will not be a huge difference in terms of wear. Still would make no sence imo to upgrade the bottom end (or keep it that meaty) from the 7M as i said the bottom end is a verry well built

Just for the record. The 7m engines weak spots where never the internal. Well irrc they made the rod bearings wider on 2jz. 7m had problem with to low torqued headbolts and bearing damage where mostly caused due to engine mixing water in the oil. IIRC there where a 900bhp 7m on stock internals But iam guessing it was not verry reliable. But still that is allmost 4 times the factory rated bhp. Back to the crank pulley i would never recomand anyone to not use one, But i for sure cant tell if not using one will cause damage.

Sure, But if that was true why did Toyota make an engine that could systain more the twice the original power, they could have fitted alot lighter crank/rods/pistons But they dident. Afaik The 2jz would probebly come from the developmentc of the prior 1jz and alos bare in mind that the engine was done way before it was put in a car. And they had a different mind back in those days I totally agree in modern cars. As they all compete for maximum fun/mpg and such. Obviously they put it there for a reson. But that still dont in anyway say that the crank Will snap, or shoot bearings. Could be But we cant know for certain

It could verry Well be like you say that the crank in the 2jz is strong enough to cope without one. However i think that when a car manufacturer builds/develop a new engine even though they use alot or R&D there is really no need to invent the "wheel" everytime. Using a damper will probebly eliminate a crank failure if there would be any risk for it to happend. They simply dont want to take the risk. And rather then use R&D on every engine they build they use it to be rather safe the sorry. Also the engine is built to last a verry long time. Also the Supra flywheel is dualmass and also dampend.

Billet main caps,

Thanks Ryan for the lesson. I have no doubt about the syvecs. However i still belive that 600whp Will be okay on other engine managements. However there might need to be mapped more safe. Also the syvecs seems to be where it is today ofc by being a very modern unit but mostly due to you, and the amount of knowledge you have about this ECU. I read alot about in the gtr s8 thread and to say iam impressed is an understatement. Maybe you should start to educate people to make the market abit wider for the syvecs?! In all honestly i dont really think that the ECU is THAT expensive. As my knowledge is not that great about mapping all i can say is that it seems worth every penny. That Said i still belive there is plenty of other ECU that Will make 600whp and do a good job. But they Will probebly not be as forgiving as the syvecs. How about haltech sport 2000 does that feature simular to link or syvecs?

i think most modern ECUs will let you use various channels for monitoring what ever basicly. would be easy enough to pop some kinde of pressure sender in the coolant system and see if there is any pressure rise. i think i could even have done that on my old E6K system (oil pressure channel or such) i get your point and obviously having an s6 that is tuned by Ryan is a "cheap" insurence.

Mate iam not arguing about it really it seems to be a top notch ECU no doubt, however not everyone wants to pay for a "top notch" ECU, so again when people asks how much does 600whp cost, well there is no simple answer and the person should imo a, either consult SRD for example or b, scan the internet for various bits and kits. there will never be a " THIS IS WHAT YOU NEED" list its down to each person, for getting 600whp maybe you dont need all the fancy stuff. why dont people say? -mate you need to have a Motec M800 ecu with all extra features unlocked? the solaris is good no duobt but hardly a must need for getting 600whp. people just by default think that omg buying parts in a box with a label is the only way to go. (yeah its the easy way maybe). the turbo kit i used was a Schwitzer s300 aka Borg warner s300, it had a forged wheels, it was flowpreped and was rated to 700hp i bought a cheap manifold from USA, custom made the lines, built my own exhaust. total cost was about 1300-1500£ for a complete turbo kit with exhaust manifold,turbo, K&N air filter, 4inch intake pipe, custom made DP with v-band flange, -4 (or -6 cant remeber) feed -12 drain 1 weld end -12 for return. ofcourse this is not for everyone, not everyone want to get there hands dirty and for some the equal kit will kost maybe 5k fitted. but that dont meen that it actually cost that much.

Yeah so if you where driving it and you would loose lets say fuelpressure on certain rpms, or oilpressure would drop on certain rpm you would not really know about i cant really argue becouse i dont know how Ryan programs the Solaris but iam guessing that the only time it will interfear would be knock control. if so for a random person there would be no real need to get any more senors then the knock control (probebly the most expensive sensor aswell, anyway)

I totally understand but then i guess there is a built in logging feature in the s6? most ecus dont have alot of memory for the logging, or do you have a recording option to a flash memory or such? 1MB aparently dont know for how long that memory would last before it starts to writeover but i get your point. just saying for 600whp no need to go over the top. so i dislike when people are saying building an engine costs 15.000k just becouse thats what you paid or someone else payed. lee said 15k id guess a custumer would walk in to his shop ask for 600whp leave the keys and then pic up the car. i built my Mk3 7m engine for around 8000£ with a forged internal everyting messured by a workshop and a proper cylinderhead job with 1mm bigger valves. yes i had an old ECU system (haltech E6k) but it had most of the features i needed.

Yeah obviously S6 will monitor it like most aftermarket ECU iam just saying that most people dont even logg the information given from the ECU, if the fuel pressure will go down most people wont know it, unless S6 will cut out the engine then i get the point. like if the oilpressure drops beyond 1bar/1000rpm the solaris cuts the engine dont even know if it will do such features but if it wont i dont see the point in having lots of sensor that no one will see the parameters of. the Knock control is really nice tho but thats becouse it controls alot. iam guessing that it can be programed to a, increase fuel b, let off some timing c, cut the engine out and all together if non of it works. but the others i dont really see the point. other then a tool for mapping. Sure james i can see you having it since you are doing lots of tweaks,bigger/smaller turbo etc and changes bits every now and then.

Not trying to start a fight here but tell me honestly how many people have the time to watch all thoose parameters when driving? or you are talking about feature in S6 unit that will cut out the engine if some of the values get out of hand? in the other case it makes sence. however when driving with 600whp you are pretty busy with watching where you are going rather then check some fancy gauges. i get your point they are more or less a must have when mapping but tbh i dont see the point in having all thoose when the car is maped and such. well maybe knock control would be nice to have if a injector starts failing. but other then that iam sure Ryan could rent the gear out for mapping and remove it when its done.

I just like to add that if you plan on handing over the keys to someone like Lee P or similar i have no doubt it would cost around 10000-15000£ and you where just to pick up your car with 600rwhp. hence i belive that all this imo nonsence threds about "how much will xxxhp costs" becouse the figures will be all over the place. depending on alot of the maker, how much work is involved etc what do you have atm. one thing is for sure no matter how big budget you have you will always brake it!

Well i guess if you cant do most of the work yourself it will be spendy and if you want all your parts to have greddy/hks or w/e on em But i seriously doubt that a 600 single would cost me anything close to 10-15k i think it would be aroundish 4-6k

Nice looking! I liked your old too though!

Thanks lads!

Thanks!