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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Scutch0

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Everything posted by Scutch0

  1. Hi thanks! I'm not sure, I'd like it to sit a little lower at the front as it's stock height at the moment, but I'm already catching the rmm front a lot already, so if I go lower I'll need to change lip! Yeah no worries I'll try and sort out a Video today Thanks bud! Yeah same, kakimoto is definitely one of my faves! Sorry, I didn't realise I was advertising, I was just so pleased with the job they did, I felt other local members may want to consider them in the future! Now that is my favourite exhaust, I've heard one on a decated na, and it sounded great, fairly loud with both cats out, but great all the same!
  2. Thanks hammer! Cheers Richie, yeah it sounds good, louder than I thought but that's probably because of the first decat, but it has that distinctive 2jz sound now, which it didn't really have before with the rasping, I guess it was just the smaller bore pipe work. definately noticed more punch from lower revs too, she's been spinning through first and into second since it's been fitted. Love it!
  3. Thanks bud. Yeah I'd love some facelift headlights, tail lights and front indicators... I'd also love one of those autoshine replica diffusers! But one thing at a time lol
  4. Yeah the paintwork is beyond saving unfortunately, there's cracks in the paint on the front and rear bumper, the bonnet need stripping and repainting, and the boot lid is having rust issues around the rear window Gutted. Dread to think what that's gonna cost.
  5. Thanks for the love guys! I'm tempted to change the font lip to the kansai one, unfortunately the paintwork is letting the car down now, so some work will be required in the not so distant future Abz, yes that is the place, speak to dan! He knows his stuff
  6. well i got it fitted today! and i must say, it sounds great! also took the opportunity to take some pics too. hope you like!
  7. Cost was £80 dependant on size (it cost me £80 exactly), which I thought was a bargain, especially as most people bin exhausts when they get like this, £80 and it's like brand new, plus the new core is 304 stainless, so won't rot out like the original
  8. So I'd been on the hunt for a new exhaust for my na for a while, as since I've had it it's had a blitz nur spec s rear box, and I fitted a cw first decat. Unfortunately the stock (with no boxes) midsection is looking pretty tired, so I knew a new exhaust would be on the cards. So I bought a kakimoto cat back from a member on here, (initially I wasn't sure what it was, but after some research I'd discovered it was a kakimoto) it had a few battle scars, but seemed ok, however on closer inspection all of the baffling was missing from the rear scilencer So after a text to the seller, he kindly agreed to fund the work to get it sorted:thumbs: So I gave it a cleanup anyway in preparation of getting it sorted So I took the rear silencer to a local company who I'd seen had very good reviews called flow dynamics in Bletchley, spoke to dan who was a top bloke, and left the rear section with them, got a message the next morning telling me it was all done, and recieved these pictures! Dead chuffed would highly reccomend flow dynamics, as after a chat with dan I discovered that they make manifolds, and even work with titanium! I also yesterday re-instated its identity... Couldn't find a original plate for it, so used a sticker as a mask and sprayed it on with high heat paint. And if the weather holds out I shall be fitting it today hopefully! Can't wait!
  9. Oh cheers! I have used bigred stuff before so I might try them. Any tips on getting the rubbers on the sliders back in?
  10. After a short drive there was a terrible smell of brakes, drivers side was considerably hotter than the rest, jacked the car up and I am only able to get the wheel to move using some force. I've had the sliders out, I did notice 2 things, 1) that one was missing an inner rubber (the one attached to the slider), and 2) how much of a pain they are to get the slider back in without damaging the rubber. I've rebuilt caliper a before, so I'm not that daunted by doing it myself, so anyone know where to get a rebuild kit? As the car only does about 2-3000 miles a year. I'm tempted to try and work the pistons in and out to free them off, as they're not leaking or anything. - - - Updated - - - Can anyone point me where to get a replacement caliper?
  11. My front drivers j spec caliper is binding, I've taken the sliders out cleaned and re greased them, they are now moving freely, however it still seems to be binding? Is it common for the pistons to seize? Any cheap remedy for this too?
  12. Well I got the parts from America today, fitted them, and it works fine, cost be £29 landed in the end, no import tax to pay. Much cheaper way of fixing a dead alternator, really easy to change the parts over too, takes about 4 minutes once you've got it off the car. It's this one you need if anyone's interested. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-27060-20110-ALTERNATOR-REGULATOR-REPAIR-KIT/370862956488?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D22046%26meid%3D7573968611819047814%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D9537%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D370862956488
  13. I'm changing the brushes, but the bearings seem absolutely fine, no noise at all, so I think I'll leave them. But cheers for the info! I'll keep you all updated on how it goes.
  14. Nah, that was for me taking off the alternator (which I've already done) and taking it to him, as he charges £60 perhour I've already taken it to bits an have now ordered what I needed, grand total of £29 delivered from California, however ill still have import tax on that no doubt.
  15. Well my local auto electrician wants to strip it down himself, at 1 hours labour before they do anything, so I figured I'd try to source the parts myself instead.
  16. I rang toyota today, apparently only the regulator is available at present and that was £125 +vat. I have found a company in California who can supply both the regulator and rectifier for £36 delivered (before import tax). stripped mine down today and everything else seems fine, so should be good with just those changed hopefully. I'll keep you all updated, if this turns out to be a viable option! it could end up being a lot cheaper for people in the future.
  17. Brilliant. Will do! Thanks for the help!
  18. Ok ta for you're assistance guys. Are the na & tt alternators identical? I know the auto has the 100amp whereas the manuals have a 90amp, but can you fit any on my na? Or do I have to get a na manual specific one?
  19. Ok then, can I buy the alternator rebuild kit from anywhere? Like just the voltage regulator? Or where's the cheapest place to get an alternator from?
  20. It's only at 11v so I'm convinced it's the alternator
  21. Just got the supra out of hibernation the other day, and has been driving a dream, however today I was charging my phone with the engine running, ad noticed the following warning lights on. oil pressure Bulb out Cat temp battery I have a volt gauge in the car and it was showing 12v instead of the usual 14v whilst running... Now I know that points to the alternator being at fault as the drive belt is fine and on the pulleys. But why would I have all other other warning lights? I'm currently leaving the battery off for a while hoping the system will reset itself.
  22. I'm actually trying to reduce rasp and drone! I've got a Chris Wilson first decat, second cat is still there, and the stock twin pipe rear section with no boxes, and a blitz nur spec s back box, I was going to junk the stock twin system any just get a single straight pipe all the way the the rear box, so it'll effectively be a nur spec r but without the resonator. Only issue is my local exhaust place is quoting me nearly as much as a good used system to do the above. Now I'm stuck on what to do!
  23. Thinking of getting a custom system made up, what's the preferred size bore for a n/a? I've done a search but didn't find anything! Turbo is a possibility in the future so I want a compromise between the two.
  24. Actually a good idea! Shame they're quite expensive though. Many thanks for the part numbers for the oem rack!
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