shifted

I've been running a spare fuel loom as above - haven't had the problem show up since so the next step is buying a new replacement fuel loom and changing it over. Edit: IIRC P1633 was the code thrown out months ago, checking the diagnostic manual it points to replacing the ECM or code P1129 - this code points to replacing the ECM or the Throttle Body depending. So either way they both point there. Odd though seeing I haven't had the problem (touch wood) since replacing the fuel loom with a spare. :-/

I need to stop being a student. Want one of everything. FML. Production run - are you expecting to be producing these items for a couple years?

I don't ever plan on selling, so I hope there'll be a forum! If this place was called supraforums.co.uk then it would be easier to implement a new MkV section when/if it comes out?

I'll see if I can get the muzzy_tt guy to forward a link. So far, igniter seems to not be the issue (though only tested it for a few days). Dave (off AU forums) wired a bulb into the fuel loom so basically if the car shuts off and the light does too, fuel pump controller needs to be bypassed, if the bulb stays on, change the fuel pump. If it is neither of these things then onto the next bit of testing. It'll take some time, but I enjoy learning, I have a daily so I don't mind keeping the Supra in limited use also (keeps the kms nice and low ). Unfortunately as I cannot force this problem to happen, even if I change parts over then how am I meant to know the problem is solved? LOL

JDM Series 2 also has the sensor. Series 1 doesn't, however I have sold a JDM Series 1 air box to a Series 2 guy who is going to modify it to fit (two bolt holes from the look of it). On the intake side, not sure. However Series 1 to 2 differs, the throttle body is different as S2 doesn't have an IACV, the modules themselves are also called something else. S1 = ETSC, S2 = ETSC-i.

Not sure if this could solve my problem, but cheaper than trying to buy a new throttle body if I can't locate one second hand (should that part be the fault when testing).

Swapped igniters with another VVT-i RZ owner... His car - single turbo (low boost), stock ECU, went for a quick lap - no problems (obviously this wouldn't necessarily cause the intermittent stall to occur) Ran his igniter in my car, car happily drove as normal - still, not really ideal as doesn't necessarily let the problem occur.... SO! He has my igniter installed, and his one is with him just in case the problem occurs he can do a quick swap and be on his way without any hassles or dramas. Hopefully he can run it all week and see if anything happens. Even if nothing happens at least we'll know it isn't that part... My thoughts on the igniter (uneducated) - I assumed it sparks and fires when you are starting the car only? after that it doesn't do anything? or is it something that constantly operates?

I'll give that a shot if I can attempt it myself comfortably. Like mentioned above, changing igniter and throttle control ecu this weekend hopefully with another vvti owner to see if either are the cause. Will get onto finding a decent auto electrician. My initial thoughts with the throttle body was due to someone else mentioning having a similar problem and by changing it - their problem was solved. Either way, will test some pieces this weekend and see what happens, will update!

Had to pay for some membership so couldn't reply earlier and didn't figure it out til I already sent a PM to wile e coyote (sorry mate!) Stock bar exhaust as far as I know. I'm assuming you replaced the Crank Angle Sensors? That's the first thing most shops I have spoken to have said without looking at the car. Not many here, and I'm not really a fan of putting someone out due to my own problem but I think I'll ask to at least test the Igniter and Throttle Control ECU. By any chance, do you have a guide/breakdown of how people maintain their throttle body? I don't want to take things apart blindly. If you could provide any more specific information on this I would greatly appreciate it. I don't mind tinkering with the car where I know I can't screw something up, at least to attempt it myself first and learn - where something is far too intricate for me or too risky I don't go near it and either ask someone who knows what they are doing or go past a shop. Unfortunately this month I have had a fair bit of time off due to uni exams - hence the greater need of attempting it myself first. Edit: Organising to swap Igniter and Throttle Control ECU sometime hopefully this weekend and test it out.

Well I guess I'll have to reassess my options lol Will wait to see what cash I have in the bank start of next month when pay comes in, may need a trip down to the 2JZ experts, if I am going to take it to a shop... may as well be the best one over here that deals with Supra and their engines on a daily basis.

So you think best thing is going around it with a multimeter and checking every sensor? I know taking it to a shop will be good but paying $100/hr for someone to do what I could probably have a crack at myself first (may as well learn) can get very expensive... That, and the 2JZ experts here in Perth are a good 45-60 minute drive from me - car dying on a stretch like worries me. I don't mind trouble shooting stuff first - I have a car to use while the Supra is in the garage - least I learn this way.

Someone has mentioned the Throttle Control ECU however this is the plan (went out on Saturday to buy some more tools)... 1. Remove RHS of throttle body (where the sensors and stuff are) have a look, contact cleaner, see if anything is amiss - very little space though :-/ 2. Get paid (monthly ) 3. If throttle body seems fine - crank angle sensors will be purchased and replaced. Unfortunately it will be some trouble shooting. I had code P1633 come up if I recall correctly, "abnormal ECU" - however seeing my ECU has not being touched and the problem is intermittent, I think this is more of something else failing and shorting something out. Worst case scenario, an aftermarket ECU and intake manifold etc. will need to be purchased which essentially means the big single build comes sooner than expected. However, I'm expecting it to be a simple sensor failure or the like due to age. Other than that, unless I find a VVT-i throttle body to test against it will be difficult I guess.

With the amount of pictures that have come out of concepts over the years - I wouldn't waste time speculating until Toyota actually sends something out which to be honest, I think they'll keep it completely hush hush until a massive auto show and bomb out on it. It will be massive hype. At least we have had numerous Toyota people come out saying the Supra is coming back and that the name has been re-registered. I wonder who it'll be competing with - GTR? GT2? Toyota wanted to apparently bring out an AWD Turbo platform soon too if the FT86 went well (which to me sounds like a Celica GT-Four) - so this is all good news.

Time to start saving!!!

That is why I was thinking it has to be on that side of the motor. I don't think replacing the intake manifold with go around the issue either? Not that I am aware of, car is stock. All it had in it was a Starbo Adaptor (for turbo timer it seems) and that is all I am aware of, I had it removed. Car drive fine almost a year before all this happened. I was thinking AFM initially also but when driving - AFM is cold, right? So at 70km/hr it shouldn't be overheating/malfunctioning or anything??

Well the car basically tries to crank over and it may start if I try pump the accelerator but straight away dies thereafter instantaneously. Immobiliser and pin code system are both deactivated. If either is activated then obviously car doesn't start. Apologies but I'm not that savvy with engines and stuff (still learning!) but very keen to learn! Video of ETSC-i module (I think) making a funny noise once after it happened... http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/824/616dvybpbauurozzraqrvb.mp4/ http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/824/616dvybpbauurozzraqrvb.mp4/ What someone else has said:

it just won't start. if it does, it immediately dies. Then about 20 minutes later it is sweet and starts normally and drives fine again for a while. I'll call the guys I know at the shop today and ask them what the go is, seeing they do all the Police cars and etc. I didn't really suspect them.

Could you be more specific? I'm pretty much a person who knows NOTHING about cars and trying to learn so I have no idea. Apologies. Very willing to learn though! It is an odd problem, but hopefully I/other Supra members can figure out what is wrong - could be a good troubleshooting thread for others if anyone ever comes across this problem. Not sure on the TPS, though someone mentioned there is a carbon brush in it so it could be cleaned (though a sealed unit)? Car won't start after for at least 5 minutes, sometimes 20 minutes. However then all of a sudden it will start, as if something cools down enough to let it start. Completely random - after the first time I checked EVERY fuse in the engine bay and the driver's foot well - all very fine. Based on the code that was pulled, I don't see it being a fuse issue however I could be wrong - my knowledge is limited and I am still learning. However main ignition relay - this could link then to a problem with the installed immobiliser/pin code setup I am assuming?

Do you have more info on this switch? I'm not aware of anything in the Supra as you described... :-/

Well if it is ECU, then I may as well buy something decent in preparation for eventually going big single - so in the mean time it would basically be ECU -> Titan Sway Bars -> Rear Struct Brace and Floor Brace -> Injectors -> FMIC -> Single. I'm going to probably go down the route of TPS/Intake manifold -> Igniter -> ECU. So I'll be doing a lot of reading now trying to figure out what everything is, how it works, and wow it can malfunction. Anyone got any links they can post? Particularly interested in understanding the ETSC-i system.

Breakthrough today - had it scanned - P1633 - Abnormal ECU/ECM - possibly caused by TPS or ETSC-i. Not sure where to go from here but plenty of reading to do.

Battery is new, replaced it when the car arrived on Aussie shores. Car arrived with 44806kms, it now sits at 56XXXkms Have owned it since April 2011, but first time driven in September 2011. Car also has an extensive earthing kit in the engine bay. With the MAF - how do you check it is faulty or is it just a trial and error thing? I've tried going around every plug but I will check it again - I'll be checking the fuel control module & pump shortly to see if anything is loose there. Edit: Stripped a bit of the rear trying to figure out what is going on, wiring seems ok, fuel pump control seems ok, stripped passenger side sill to check there, all seemed ok.

Peeps, so been having an intermittent problem as of late... the engine cuts out randomly, temp does seem high though (90-95degrees) details: 1. going over a speed bump (10km/hr maybe?) car engine cuts out (electrics still on) - no engine power. car won't turn over, after about 20 minutes... car starts. checked all fuses - were ok. 2. another car park, about to reverse into a bay... car dies. same problem. 10-15 minutes later, car starts... 3. on the way home, 70km/hr on Morley Dr same thing - car engine cuts out, i manage to just get the wheel to turn enough so I can make it up a side street instead of dying on the road blocking traffic. 10-15min later, car starts. 4. idled the car after driving for about 15 minutes, for about 5 minutes. soon as I went to drive off I didn't get about 100m down the road before it died. 5 minutes later it started again 5. plugged in an OBD2 reader and the car was idling in the driveway. idled for about 15-20minutes while I was trying to check sensors/get fault codes/graph stuff on the TORQUE Pro app. stuttered and came back to life but seemed to be in limp mode - engine light came on - no fault codes registered. Restarted the car, all was normal, went limp again a couple minutes later. possible causes? people have mentioned O2 sensors, coil packs, No. 1 Speed Sensor, Crank Angle Sensor, Fly-by-wire, Fuel System, Ignitor, Intake Solenoid, Cam Angle Sensors... what can I start to do to fix it? I bridged Tc and E1 (as car is VVT-i), got the following flashes: 4-1, 4-4, 4-9, 5-1, 1-2 (all abs light flashes by the way), during this time SNOW was flashing also constantly, and the engine light was flashing constantly. Now, for a VVT-i, the codes can be 4 digit ones instead (due to OBD2 compliancy) I am assuming so it could be a combination thing... OBD-II Check Engine Light Trouble Codes Toyota OBD-II Trouble Codes So I've bought this... eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d?r As per: http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/a80-mkiv-discussion/80363-vvti-ecu-fault-code-reading-more.html Which I believe was taken off of a thread here as I have come across that very thread while searching around for my problem. While waiting for it to arrive, I've read some other threads on here on stalling but nothing really lead anywhere.. So I am stumped.. I topped up coolant today.. and I've checked the plugs and coil packs, by that, I mean i took the cover off, had a look around, made sure everything was plugged in - didn't unplug anything as I am a noob. Went for a test drive - no problem. Then problems 4 and 5 happened above a couple weeks later. Pictures below of engine bay in case anyone has a look and goes "that's what is wrong!!" I'm thinking - dodgy AFM(?) - could be likely? How do you check this? Crank angle sensor? Or - alarm relay is acting up somewhere/shorting something out - though I think this is less likely, it wasn't a backyard job and no other electrical problems, something to do with the fuel system? seems like something is overheating (electronic component?) and shorting/causing the engine to save itself and shut down. was thinking before it could be reading no air so cuts off fuel? Not sure. Kind regards, Paul

Sorry for thread bump - however just bought this setup myself and an running the application on my Asus Transformer Prime tablet - works flawlessly - reads Revs, Speed etc. in real time - tried pulling codes (as I have an intermittent engine stall, basically at 10km/hr and at 70km/hr the engine randomly cut out and I had to cruise the car to a stop, car wouldn't start for a good 15-20 minutes, not sure if something is overheating, a sensor is faulty/getting too hot etc.) - no codes registered though on the app - didn't realise you can add sensors so I'll give that a shot next to see what sensors are available. Mine's a 2000 RZ - very happy with this app setup though, best $40 I've spent on the car I think!

I'm looking to fit one of these myself to a JDM RZ in the near future but I never realised there was a little snorkel in the bay - probably won't be using that and just fitting it to the cut and letting the cold air get into the rear of the engine (I'll be attending more and more track events as time goes on) - never thought about water getting into the engine bay through it - anyone have that problem? (Sorry to hijack a little!)