mattysupra

i think you sort of answered what i was trying to work out. I figure that if i can run 12.2 on standard tyres i must have somewhere between 400-425 bhp? i think. Guess i should just get it on the dino. Thor racing is just up the road from me. Are they any good at doing a dino on auto tt? Read the thread on how to dino a auto supra and it seems that most people seem to have problems getting correct readings. I have run 11.9 at Stratford raceway but i always find i am much faster there over Santa pob were i sit at 12.2-12.3. But the day i run the 11 the sun was out warming the track but the wind was cold and blowing from behind, plus they had just sent the rocket car down before me and re-painted the track. Every thing was on my side so would not class it as a fair overall run. But still well pleased with the result

i had a look through there but can only see one with a hp figure next to quarter time.

Does any one know what sort of power you need to run lets say.. 10sec's... 11sec's... 12sec's... 13sec's... 14sec's... 15sec's... Also using road legal tires. Mine runs 12.2-12.3 seconds consistently but have know idea what power it has. Maybe you can post your time and bhp figure so we can try and work out a power to speed ratio???

I may be wrong about the resistor but that is how i understood they had done it. How do the speedo converters work that go in the loom between the gearbox and speedo? I thought they was a resistor to that made the signal 5/8 less or something like that?

I didn't fit a so called speed converter that you buy now a days, They convert the kmh to read in mph but you only end up using half the dial. When we changed the face on mine the speedo was not accurate so i had it calibrated. The dial i fitted was about 20% out to the old face. (200mph where 180mph should be etc) so to make it read write a resister was fitted.

4 weeks? i think i would of done something that would get me locked up for another night. I have never had any dealings with envy before but for them to take that long sorting a speedo i must guess that you have something major wrong? Anyway the speedo face's look simular to mine apart from they look like they will leave your speedo reading a little fast ( stop you getting a speeding ticket) the 200mph bit looks like it is in the place where the 180 should go. All we did on mine was fit a speedo face with 200mph on it and then stick on rolling road with correct reading of speed and then fit the correct resistor to make it read correct. But i am going back about 8 years when there was no one about offering the correct face and stuff.

i had the same problem the other day apart from mine was poping and spitting flames and stuff. I think, or have put it down to the engine not being at correct running temp. If too cold mine tends to do this even if been sat running for 15 minutes before driving. If it is cold outside then i have to drive for a while not using second turbo until fully warm. It never used to be like this but i now run electric water pump and fans. If i used to put my foot down before i had electric stuff and it was not hot it would cut out/lose power. Think it is more of a safe guard on the ecu than a fault. But mine does not have a standard ecu either. Yours may be different.

mine has been with no cats for about 4 years now. I run nitrous on it and have done alot drag and track days in it over the years. I also drive it very hard (well untill the major brake fade kicks in) Have never had any problems. I also dont understand peoples drag times for there mods. I have run 11.9 in mine but sit more on a consistant 12.2-12.3. I look at every one else bhp which must be more than mine but seem to be in the 13-14 second quarter times. Why is this? i dont understand. Is it pure driver error with lack of control or what. I see dino results of 500hp and still slower. I would guess mine is 400-450 at a push with the nos. What sort of bhp is needed to run 12.3 seconds?

Ye i know but couldn't find what i was looking for. Anyway my question has been answered! But im a bit confused as my car does about 1.1 bar of boost and after removing both cats and not fitting a restrictor ring it still does the same boost. Why is this? Maybe some thing else restricting it in the exhaust? Dont think it is tho as custom made exhaust with to cats or silencers at all. It has a blitz back box but there are no baffels in there as been removed. And the strange thing is that the car is still quiet compared to all other supras i have been in.

Just watched your video. Did you catch the nasty bastard who stuck the fire work up your exhaust?? I would of killed them if they did that to mine.

And what does it do or go? Completly lost on what your all talking about:dontget:

nip down to your local car spares with the fitting and they will have a box with a range of different size copper washers at about 50p each.

Thanks very much. Can you plug the plug back into the switch after so it lights up or not?

well guys and girls, thanks for the replies. I left the car over night and decided i would look at the problem today. Started the car up this morning and took it for a drive. Guess what....??? It has fixed itself. I have done 150 mile trip in it tonight and started of easy but give it a bit of welly on the way back down the motorway with no problems at all. Apart from when it decided to spin the wheels up at almost 100mph which left me fish tailing down the motorway with the front wheels in the middle lane and both rears in the outside lane There was also a smell of sh.t in the car after. (not sure if it was mine or the passengers) Any way all sorted !! And thanks everyone.

how do i know which pin is which?

its a bit more than a mis fire. Really harsh pops , bangs , fire out the exhaust etc. I tried to look at the boost when it did it and that seemed to be sat at about 1 bar but not on full boost( only about 4000 rpm) I have split boost pipes etc before and you can normally here the air leeking from them. I didn't hear this time as something i was listening for it.

How do i turn off the active spoiler warning light. I no longer have the active spoiler and want to turn the warning light off. I have read you need to bridge out the pins on the connector behind the bumper but which ones? Pics would be brillant.

mine has a stand alone electric water pump and since fitting it the only way i can bleed mine is by lifting the rad up higher than the engine. Guess this will be hard to do if you still have the viscous fan etc in the way. Try jacking the front up if your still having problems.

What was the problem?

Cheers ric. This was the first thing i checked. Still hoping it is something simple like this tho!

Well thanks for the replies everyone. I think i will leave it alone as I'm to scared of melting valves again I was worried about fuelling and it seems others are to. I guess on a stock or mildly modified supra you may be o.k but mine is far from stock and guess i shouldn't be messing with what seems a good reliable set up (11.9 quarter ) Thanks for all the info.

Thanks for the reply but I have not long changed the plugs and had the coil packs tested due to another problem i was having when running more than 75 hp jets on the nitrous. Turns out these was not at fault before but lack of fuel pressure. Or so we think. Not tested nos since bigger fuel pump fitted. Wondering now if maybe the two problems are connected?? Does any one else have any other idea's?

Took my supra tt out today for the first time in a month, When the second turbo came on boost i kept getting a heavy misfire along with big pops and bangs. Tried it a few times but it kept happening so turned around and stuck it back in the garage. It had a new stereo fitted in the week and the boost gauge re connected as not been connected for years ( me being lazy ) I tried to plug the car into the ecu reader but it wouldn't recognise the car. This might be because it is not a standard ecu (mines) and i have never needed or tried to plug it in before. Any ideas people??

Thanks for the link but im a bit worried about doing this conversion! has anyone tried this? I melted some valves on my supra many years ago when one of the pipes on the valve (vsv???) split and came off. I got a rush of power and more turbo noise. I put the throttle down trying to work out what the problem was and 5 seconds later it split a boost pipe. I fixed the boost pipe still not knowing why the car was making bigger turbo noise ( the split valve pipe) and hammered it again. Under 10 seconds later i was running on 5 pistons and melted valves. Is this a safe conversion or not? I see you reconnect the pipe else where and not to air like mine had gone. Any help please.

He i remember reading about a year ago about something i think the poster called ' true twin turbo conversion ' It was a switch he fitted to make both the turbos to spool up at the same time so you ended up with a harsh surge of power instead of the smooth power the supra produces as standard. Does anyone remember this or know what to do?