Scott

Im interested in the cam covers on their own if you are willing to split and others are interested in the rest

As above. Dude is going to have a look to see what he has. I was actually going to get a full set but I found out the exhaust and the intake are the same so I can chop and change meaning that I only need 10 now. 4x 2.70mm (0.1063") Part no. 13753-74090 6x 2.75mm (0.1083") Part no. 13753-74110 Thanks

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-SUPRA-STARTER-MOTOR-1993-1998-/190543935045?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c5d4db645

I just did it from the lowest point. Get the basin/bucket whatever right underneath the pipe and where you are removing the pipe from. Once it's emptied out, give the steering a few turns either way and it will squirt out what's left. From there you can remove the pump no bother, you will get a few drips etc but nothing major.

Behave lol.

Cheers mate

There's no chance I'll be up that high. At some point I might take the tubby as far as it will go, but that'll be it

PS pump is a doddle, just a little messy as the fluid obviously needs to be drained out

Full set of shims required, goody goody gum drops lol. Every one of them are 1 or 2 thou too tight.

I wouldn't murder them, but I wouldn't have a problem shifting them IRL either

I think I'll just go along with that mate. I have all the lines sitting here from Hodge but I'm taking on a lot of work doing all this myself so doing really unnecessary work is a little silly if I'm honest. I'll just keep a hold of the lines John supplied though as they look fantastic. If I decide I want more in the future I've got no option than twin pump anyway. Thanks

I'll leave you to it bud, good luck

Any idea how your fuel line is attached mate? Is it a large banjo or something?

You won't stand a chance with 10k to get your car up to spec to run a proper 1000hp.

You can't run it on an original ECU if you have larger injectors mate. Sounds like it's running on 4 cylinders or less.

Just fitted these to my car. Not looking to go for 8k RPM though. I think you would be better with double valve springs given the power you are running. I assume you have some fairly wild cams? Better with the doublers

Interesting, look forward to the video

Better get your wallet out if you want a true 1000hp car. A decent ECU will be required for starters (Will be around 2.5k when all is said and done). A fudging unit (greddy) won't cut it. Twin bosch 044 fuel pumps with staggered trigger (you could use a race pump but one of the members had one and it overheated after a short time, for drag it would be fine) Fuel lines all replaced with much larger ones Custom loom for pumps Larger fuel filter 1200+cc Injectors (higher would most likey be recommended) High Flowing Fuel Rail Most likely a fully built head with the following.. High lift reasonably agressive cams Ported and polished Oversized valves Titanium Double springs & retainers. 3.4 stroker would probably get you there the easiest but the choice is yours when it comes to that front. Are you going for a new block? Decent bearings will be required. Good oil cooling What gearbox do you have? 6spd will be required unless looking into a serious autobox. You will need a better diff to run 1000hp, expect at least 1k for that. Wheels & tyres will need to be considered. The list is honestly endless mate. I could be here all day.

Unnecessary on all variants of turbo though as it can always be recirculated regardless of tubby choice

Have you had a chance to check the wishbones mate? I've pm'd you a couple of times but not heard anything back. Is it best to contact you via email rather than pm? Just for future reference Cheers

I doubt it'll be the coil pack bud. It's the coil pack clips you need to look at first. Coil pack would be the last link in the chain I would be checking.

See that is the one massive reason for fitting the tank lines you sent, no matter what I do (within reason) I'll never need to upgrade. Would it be possible to shim the cover? The important thing is that the boot carpet etc still fits into place and is still flush. I can modify the cover or raise it a bit no bother as long as it remains flush. That's a good point actually. I don't know if I want to go to the hassle of fitting a new loom though. Is the draw a lot higher with the 044?

Yeah but only because I've changed the actual head, valves, springs & retainers etc. Not because I'm worried about the piston rings..... as per what Chris said.

My BC ones didnt but I'm guessing that's because they are singles?

Ive got 2 options with what way to go regarding my fuel system. I can either split after the stock fuel filter or I can replace the whole lot. How much hassle is the later? I'm fitting a bosch 044 pump and the rail is twin feed -6an. As I understand it the stock fuel filter has a -6an female fitment so i would need a -6an male to male then a -6an to 2x -6an adapter. From there I can simply connect the rail to the adapter via 2 -6an lines. The return will be coming from the fuel regulator and I have been told the -6an fits perfectly over the return line. Is there any issues with the above? I have bought a fitting kit for the 044 but I wasnt sure if that used the stock feed line or not? My other option is to buy a -8an fuel filter, feed the -8an from the pump to the filter, get a -8an to 2x -6an adapter and feed the rail from that. The return would then be a -6an line from the regulator all the way back to the tank. Is it easy to remove the stock lines and fit shiney braided ones? What will happen with the spare wheel? I want to retain the stock tank cover, spare wheel etc and I have a rather large boot build that currently sits flush. I've seen a few threads where people have had to modify their covers, is this going to be necessary if I want to run my own lines or an 044 pump? Thanks