Willson
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Everything posted by Willson
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Sorry for the slight off topic but....... If an import has had the clocks changed to mph face and the odo is still reading in km (stock) then why would a chip have been required (apart from deristricting) ? Been trying to work this out, as I have had a small anoyance with my active spoiler and could not locate a speedo converter when I tried to find it. Anyone ?
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Yeah sorry, I got a bit carried away. Handy though
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A completely stock car will make more boost on a cold day. Manual boost controllers like mine are fixed to a position that you choose, but the outcome will still vary with the air temp. Like I say electronics compensate for this, by bleeding more or less air, to hold a SET boost level. I would still get an electronic if I had the money. Read more here
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Yeah super clever thats me, honest. No it's just a bleed valve ! As I understand it, the difference between electronic and manual is that the electronics adjust a solenoid to COMPENSATE for changes in air temperature (in turn oxygen density, in turn boost made) and load etc.......... Probably b*llcks but it makes sense to me
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[J-SPEC] I got one (lower) cat out and a manual boost controller set to max 1.2 bar at a little over freezing. Automatically reduces boost to a little over 1 bar on a hot day. Buy Pete's FCD (TRL VFCC)...http://www.thor-racing.com/TRL/products_boostcut.html Bar and PSI are just different units. 14.5 psi = 1bar (ish).
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Check dis...... http://www.suprastore.com/bodkitaer.html
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Cos it's the abflug that's based on the TRD Abflug do a few different bits. Is the TRD still available ? I thought it was discontinued but people are still getting them. Maybe copies ?
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TRD JGTC That's what I'm talking about !
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The Abflug s9500
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The kit on that car is not the same as the kit on the REAL JGTC car. The toy one does look like the abflug kit thats based on the trd widebody, but I think it's just a stock body with overfenders and skirts etc. Probably based on a stock body toy.
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Oh I assume you can still get them from toyota for cheap........
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Very cheap from toyota ! maybe £8 each or so.
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I think it's the two pipes in the middle of this pic. if not, that is the general area and at least one of the pipes.
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Oh, yeah, you can check by feeling the two pipes when the engine is hot. Both pipes should be hot indicating hot coolant going in and out of the matrix. I suspect that one will be a lot cooler indicating the blockage.
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It's the two metal pipes at the firewall, 3/4" wide (ish), in the centre, at the top of the engine. easy to find. I cleared my matrix by connecting the garden hose to each one in turn and clearing the crap out. Worked loverly
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Is this any good.......? http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/maintenance_schedule/index.html
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Welcome to a fellow Sandhurstonian
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I can't find the thread right now, but I wonder if you are suffering the same as someone on here. Their exhaust had disintegrated blocking the flow and caused similar symptoms. I think it was a hyper (or hiper) exhaust.
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Cheers Steve, that sounds good
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As you may know, I recently moved my battery to the boot. For the second time the battery was nearly flat today. I am not happy with the chassis earth I used and think this may be causing the problem. So can anyone point me in the direction of a proper earth point ? And yes I know I should have done it properly the first time
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Just a thought...... Won't this go up further on a (very) cold day ?
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Yeah I think that's probably what it was I watched my mate change em so I can do them next time.
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Well it was a clip on the back of one of the callipers. There was virually no pad left ! It amazing how much better the brakes are now !
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I am getting an constant on-off squeek from what sounds like one of the brakes. Only at around 5 mph and varies relative to speed. The front pads have done at least 10K miles and the rears maybe 8. I'm not too hard on them. Is this likely to be the wear indicators ? I don't know how to read the pads, as in how low they are.
