Kranz

01. Lui

02. Fishman (take some photos again)

03. Mr Lover

04. Supra650 (hopefully will confirm soon)

05. MrAngry

06. Daston (I will be staying at the travel lodge on the other side)

07. Ivan

08. absxxxx

09. Mas

10. rush

11. Aaron-swr

12. VELOCITY

13. Chris Burford

14. gaz6148

15. Hen4732 (Henk)

16. MarkTheBoy

17. Supra650

18. Markymark

19. Terribleturner

20. Guigsy

21. supRo

22. Ultra_supra

23. Tooquicktostop

24. Belly

25. Robert

26. Broomie

27. Muffleman - will aim for the south convoy to meet with this

28. Silversoop (i'll meet you all at toddington )

29. tucky40(ben)

30. Private Pile(Dan)

31. Henk

32. Rodeo_v8

33. b.weeks (Ben)

34. Sharpie - I have NO idea what time I'll be needing to set off yet to meet up at this time.... 03:30 ish

35. letmeshowyou

36. Edd_t (but dont wait for me if im late, im out on the lash friday night lol)

37. SupraStar 3000

38. m45sey (ill meet you there if the missus dont moan about it being early)

39. Fish

40. P111ddy

41. Viperrob

42. K14 SUP

43. Wkdtime

Update

To make this fix permanant is simple. When the JB Weld is set key it and a large area around it with coarse sandpaper & slap lots of Isopon P40 fibreglass over the whole lot about 1/2 inch thick

The JB Weld sticks well to the plastic top tank but is brittle so eventually cracks again if not supported. The P40 is very strong and supports the repair well, but doesn't stick to the plastic well. The combination of the two holds out well & should be permanant.

Smiffad has my old rad repaired like this and hopefully will advise how its holding out.

Any chance of a pic of the repair Adam??

Rich, the temp repair I posted up now has a permenant solution. Just trowel loads of Isopon P40 over the top of the JB Weld. Smiffad has my old rad fixed like this and its still going strong

I've been having a think about this Darryl and it all keeps coming back to the injection system or injectors themselves. I'm thinking that at least one injector has a mechanical problem.

From the vid it seems that its not firing on all cylinders, possibly due to one or more cylinders being too rich to fire. This would be consistent with injector(s) stuck open and hosing fuel into the cylinder(s). This would cause the AFR's to go ballistic.

Were the injectors new?

Were they flow tested immediately before installation?

Have you tried giving them a light tap while running to see if one will free off? (Not sure if they can be reached?)

Im just thinking about Homer's problems till and wonder what are the differences between....

 

1) Fuel Pumps,

2) Fuel Filters,

and

3) Injectors.

 

 

Is it possible the diesal could have damaged ny of the above or clogged them up??

1) No, have run diesel through gasoline fuel pumps for many years on many test beds.

2) IIRC the diesel fuel filters are much finer, so I doubt it unless it reacts with the petrol or forms waxes in the filter.

3) wouldn't have thought so as flow test machines for injectors use fluid similar to diesel.

Ah! BUT?

 

What if his N/A is from the future and fell throught a fissure in the space time continuum?

Next you'll be saying he needs a new flux capacitor.

Your best bet is to buy a recon turbo from a reputable rebuilder.

Turbo Technics is one of the best. Just search for reconditioned turbo in Google and I'm sure you'll find some prices.

Happy birthday fellow Sussex dude

Ionic power is a theory for space travel (Ion drive)where particles are accelerated through electrically charged grids out of the back of the space craft, normally as a form of plasma (plasma drive).

Can't see it catching on fitted to NA's though http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ion_engines

Also - i think i'm right in saying a badly maintained aircon system will lead to bacteria - and the bacteria can be dangerous - in fact it can get so bad it can cause Legionaires disease.

Yep, legionalle bacteria can grow in any AC system. Best to use one of the bactericide things once a year.

Also running the AC once a week for 5 minutes keeps the oil that is in there with the refrigerant circulating and lubricating the seals and O rings. Without the oil circulating the seals can dry out, shrink & crack and allow the refrigerant to escape.

Stick some steel turbines in them mate. Won't cost much... about £35 each IIRC plus VSR balancing. may as well change the bearings while they're apart. There won't be issues with max boost then, other than boosting out of the efficiency range of the compressor.

Probably your first cat has broken up and debris from it blocked your second cat. This would have caused a loss of power as the exhaust can't get out and made the exhaust temp go sky high.

Either that or the exhaust temp was sky high, melted the first cat which then blocked the second cat and blocked it (this only normally happens at WOT up near peak power).

The smoke is the over heated cat. The place you describe it coming from is the right place.

Take the first & second cats out. The first cat is most probably an empty shell. You can just leave it that way and get some extra power The second cat MAY be able to be saved by picking the sludge off the face of the brick (will look like reddy brown sludge, probably mostly in a puddle at the bottom). If the second cat isn't salvegable then smash the brick out and have a full decat.

There may be a reason for the overheat in the first place, if it wasn't the first cat breaking up. That will need to be looked into to make sure all is ok.

Footman James were the cheapest a few years ago for my Westy Seight.

Speaking of which its up for sale soon if anyone's interested. Only 800 miles since build!!! Thats an average of 80 miles a year

Its a 3.5 litre vitesse injection engine (new) with loads of power (for the weight).

At least it went the right way mate, and not out into the road to play with the traffic

Saw a car the other day (07 reg Honda Civic) where the owner hadn't put the handbrake on peoperly and it had rolled slowly all the way down a mahoosive hill missing EVERYTHING and was sitting double parked at the bottom of the road. Now that's what I call lucky

Those scratches will come out. Dent magicians can do scratches and invisible repairs.

Will it be fine with the heat??

5900 is good, but I've checked their products and 587 is even better suited to what you need. http://68.72.74.113/PRODUCTS/587.htm

Available from Halfrauds IIRC

I'd have personally popped a few caps into their mofo bad asses

Or in reality run away screaming like a girl

Glad you didn't get too involved. Its not worth it when there's weapons involved and you're not kitted up to deal with it...... and even when you are you've really got to weigh up the risks and think 'is this really worth dying for?' !!!!!! Answer = NO!

Where've you been, on holiday?

LOL, WB Chris..... Now, where's Flat4????

Amsoil fully synth 10W/40 is fine for my TT

A 60 weight oil may be a little thick, although this is what was used in the Jag XJ220 road car & race engine! For a stock TT a 10W/40 is fine, 10W/50 is max I would go to.

Loctite 5900 or similar Loctite low volatility oxygen sensor safe RTV gasket compound. Its feckin good stuff. I used about 10 big tubes of it to build my kit car

The 320 on a tank that I get with 'normal' driving (some cruising, a bit of town and a bit of booting it) seems about right then

The best way to put your car on a diet is to reverse engineer everything. By that I mean take it completely apart (the easy bit), look at what each part does and seperate them into four categories:

1) Not performance/safety critical component, and not required to be fitted - Bin it!!

2) Not performance/safety critical component, but required to be fitted - Alternative component available in lighter materials.

3) Performance/safety critical component - Alternatives available on the market in lighter materials and tested to perform as, or better than the original.

4) Performance/safety critical component - No alternatives available.

Doing 1) will cost you nothing, so go ahead, bin as much as you can.

2) and 3) will cost more, much more!

And you're basically stuck with items in category 4).

Once you've been through all this then stick it back together and hope you've got it all right!

Well today really was a bad day for me cause i had my tyre blow-out on the drivers side

Ruddy 'ell mate. I'd say you were very lucky.... and quite skilful to hold it on a tyre blow out

had to drive home from Aberystwyth

Easier done than said

I've had to work on a french car. How unlucky is that??

Oh, and my dog killed and ate a bird..... Quite unlucky for the bird really!

So you could cause damage by turning off too soon due to heatsoak overheating the head. Nasty.

Not really, temps won't go high enough to cause any damage. Certainly won't be high enough to warp the head, but will reach 125C. The fact that the heat is dissipating means it wouldn't be a problem.

A similar thing would happen if the water pump failed with the engine running.. with dire consequences as the area around the combustion chamber would keep heating up until

Well done

I bet your parents are so proud