Phil

1. Yes 1a. No 2. Some people claim it can be lowered again by the use of a boost controller but this seems a little pointless to me. Once you've had 18psi anything less feels a little dull. 3. Quite possibly. Any increase in power will stress your engine more and shoreten the life of some components. It depends how much you are prepared to upgrade and how much risk you are willing to take. 4. It will lower the temp and I personally see it as a safety thing. I prefer an FMIC really with WI as well if you want. 5. Not really. If you keep the cats it is a good way of raising the boost. 6. These are all very useful gauges to have. 7. Thats right, the FCD clamps the signal at fuel cut level so the ECU is effectively 'blind' to boost beyond this level. 8. Mine needed one refitted to pass emissions and its a 1993. It's a grey area, you may get away with it and you may not. 9. Yes, but they look nice. I'm sure Ringmaster can do you a deal. 10. Yes, whatever you want really but no real point in going beyond 18psi on stock turbos. 11. MPG will be probably high teens depending on your right foot. 12. I think around 440BHP theoretically but Ash will probably be able to give you a better estimate and reason why. 13. Maybe 350 to 400 crank BHP 14. Apparently not according to CW. I believe the bottleneck is created by the manifold. I think the above is fairly accurate although I am by no means an authority on these matters. FWIW I run a TT aerotop with CW downpipes, a HKS Hiper and a HKS Induction kit, no TC until my Racelogic goes in, a HKS S type FMIC, 18"s and Eibach Springs. 18psi and it runs sweet on Esso SUL with Millers Octane Booster and an oil change with Valvoline every 4000 miles. Cheers,

Bear in mind that Eric's 911 has a dry sump and the oil capacity is something like 20 litres with 2 filters and at least 2 drain plugs. Not quite as straight forward as a Supra. Cheers,

255 is the maximun recommended width for an 8.5" rim.

No problem, if anyone else wants it mail me direct. Cheers,

I've got the webpage saved with all the details of how to do this, I've sent it to you direct Mark.

Bear in mind that Darren has an NA though, I think we are all talking about TT downpipes which are probably different. Cheers,

I believe I have cured the problems I was having with mine, I just have to disable the warning light now. There is a rotary contact on the cylinder side assembly that is held by a spring in the "throttle butterfly closed" position when the Trac gubbins are removed. You need to remove this item, snip the spring, and superglue the rotary contact in the opposite position so the ECU thinks it is open. I fitted, removed and re-fitted my HKS kit to check this solution, with this in place the autobox appears unaffected and the 2nd turbo comes online at the correct revs. Regards,

The Subaru guy has bottled it, but not before I had the headlights out and most of the bumper off. It's going to Leon's later in the week now to be fitted, which I'm happier about anyway really, and he's going to change my cam belt at the same time. Only 40k miles but it's always nice to have it done and my warranty runs out next month FMIC would have been nice for Trax but what can you do. Thanks for the advice anyway and I'll hopefully see a few of you tomorrow. Cheers,

Cheers guys. He's coming round at 2.30 so lets hope it's not a 7 hour job! No external BOV so not a worry there, and I'm going to try and get my bumper off and remove the active spoiler before he gets here to save him some time. I was a bit worried doing it the day before Trax so if you see a white BMW on the Supra stand and a grumpy looking tired bloke you'll know its me!

I suspect NA downpipes will be totally different to TT ones anyway but I'm sure there is an enormous amount of unused TT Cat Downpipes hanging in garages all over the country Cheers,

Mine is the same as yours and I've got heated mirrors so I would assume they are standard on GZ Aero's. Cheers,

No, there is no blank. If I remember rightly it's cut into the panel. Cheers,

I've seen a couple of NOS installs on cars and bikes and they were all operated by a switch. On the car it was wired to the horn push (Escort RS Turbo so l/h column stalk) and you pressed it in for more power and on the bikes they were wired to the pass light switch. I wouldn't really want a timed one, not very safe I would imagine. Cheers,

Big rocker switch on the r/h dash panel I think, folds the mirrors round flush with the windows. Must have been an option even on the GZ because I know of non-GZ cars with it and GZ cars without. Cheers,

Well after my latest ECU reset the 2nd turbo seems to come online at 4000rpm again but the warning lights remain even though I've reinstalled all the kit, bar the actual metal butterfly. I have refitted the bar that crosses the intake though and moves the sensor relational to the position of the motor. I'm really waiting now for Ash to fit JF's to see if he comes across anything but I hope to use JF's redundant motor and sensor to fault-find mine as there is a possibility that I damaged one or both of these when removing them. I've checked all my underbonnet fuses but not the ones in the driver footwell yet so there is a possibilty of a blown fuse there as well. Cheers,

I had a similar problem of not going over 15 psi even with Pete's FCD fitted. After much head scratching and a visit to Pete it turned out to be the Spark Plugs breaking down, they would get to 15psi but then misfire and go no higher. Changed for a set of NGK R plugs (Thanks Justin!) and went straight round to 19psi! Do you know what plugs you have?

I recently fitted the HKS T/C removal kit but then you get a problem with the TRAC and OD OFF light flashing alternately. I was going to ignore these lights until somebody with better electrical knowledge came up with a work around but my car seems to be behaving strangely as well, mine is an Auto and I've noticed that sometimes the gearchanges are jerkier and the second turbo has recently started to come online at around 4500rpm instead of just below 4000rpm as before. I re-installed the standard TC gubbins this morning and reset the ECU but still get the same warning lights and symptoms!? Anyone come across this before or know what might be happening? Cheers, Phil

With the TC removal kit fitted the car does seem a bit livelier, it has none of the restricted feeling that you get with the TC on. As for more power - hard to say really, feels better though. The removal kit will come into it's own though when my Racelogic TC goes on as it will remove the stock TC's ability to intefere when the Racelogic is deliberately allowing slip. Cheers,

You have to be quite brutal, I wouldn't want to miss with the hammer. Tell you what, you fit my Racelogic and I'll fit your TC removal kit

It is obvious once you open it up which goes where, the plain cylinder shaped one goes in the wing side. On the cylinder side don't try and remove the black plastic piece, remove the metal piece it sits on. The butterfly is held by two screws which I had to drill out as I couldn't shift them. The central bar took some shifting on mine, I had to hit it square on with a hammer from the wing side and then tap it out from the cylider head side. You then have to get the brass inserts out which was a pig of a job on mine. In the end I had to knock out the wing-side one by using a hammer and a carefully placed screwdriver inserted via the mouth of the throttle body. If I was doing it again I would remove the entry hose completely and refit it afterwards rather than bend it under so it pops off the next day! Takes about an hour and then one of you technical whizzes can work out how to frig the signals and stop the dashboard lights flashing Cheers, (Edited by Phil at 10:15 am on Aug. 23, 2001)

Got it! As soon as I got home I had a look with a decent light and saw it straight away. The flexible hose from the Throttle Body goes into a hard plastic section about 6" long and vertical, which is bolted to the underside of the battery shelf. The lower part of this had come adrift from the pipe which runs along the front of the car and then turns up to the throttle body. Undid all the jubilee clips and refitted it all properly, went for a blast - 18psi again. Big grins all round :) Cheers, (Edited by Phil at 6:35 pm on Aug. 20, 2001)

If the text is as useful as the pictures you'd be better off using it as a firelighter! Cheers,

If you get stuck with the HKS kit let me know and I'll try and help. Cheers,

There is a metal disc with 2 contact points, and I suspect reed switches or similar, in the spring side which I have tried re-fitting in both positions to fool the ecu but without success. I'm wondering if it takes a signal from the motor on the other side of the throttle body but until I know what is expected I can't sort out a work-around. The instruction sheet is in Japanese (obviously) but even the pictures are rubbish really, I've had a quick look on the 'net but haven't turned up anything useful yet.

I fitted the HKS on Sunday so it could be where I bent the throttle body hose below it whilst mucking about, but I couldn't see anything obvious. I will take the easy hoses off when I get home to check for splits. I'm getting the warning lights related to the TC removal but I don't *think* my problem is caused by this.