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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Phil

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Everything posted by Phil

  1. Used to get about 12k out of rear F1's but the fronts always wore on the inside edges cos I was doing a lot of motorway miles. I've binned fronts with 5mm on the outside and bald on the inside after 7k. Great tyres though. Cheers, Phil
  2. You mean UK spec as well? 320mm with 4 piston calipers. S/H these are quite rare but you can get new sets for around £7-800 all in I think. Try Justin @ Torqueic on 01233 500384, he sorted out a few sets in the past I think. Cheers, Phil
  3. BMW specifically state that you shoudl use SUL for their M series cars, it's in the M3 handbook. Very interesting thread this. Cheers, Phil
  4. Phil

    Mods

    I can do you a nice deal on the FMIC and TC as well, bought and never fitted. See For Sale. Cheers Phil
  5. One problem I came across intermittantly was that at WOT in third the limiter would come in at around 120mph on the clock, this could be defeated by easing off slightly as you went thru 120MPH or easing off enough to make it change to 4th around 115MPH then back on WOT. Justin told me the trick when I explained the symptoms to him so I assume it had happened to him too, surprised he ever found the cure to anything by easing off though :biggrin: Cheers,
  6. Phil

    Hiper

    Syed, 'm not sure you can transplanet exhaust's between the TT and NA. Cheers, Phil
  7. Phil

    Wheel Studs

    Sorted. Graham at McCarthy Toyota Maidstone, 01622 790222, highly recommended. Moron at Motorline Ashford, complete waste of space. Cheers,
  8. Phil

    Wheel Studs

    Just had a hugely irritating phone call with my local Toyota dealer speaking to some moron who wouldn't look for a part if the chassis number didn't come up on his computer. Every time I asked him to look based on the model he just repeated that "the standard procedure is to put the chassis number in". After him saying this for about the third time I just hung up - these people don't deserve any business.
  9. Morning all, I've got a stripped thread on one of my wheel studs and need to get a new one asap. Does anyone know the Toyota partnumber for the stud and bolt? It's got Jap spec discs but I don't think that makes a difference in this case. Cheers,
  10. I think there is a Boxhill meet coming up, or Justin's Brekky run if you like. Cheers,
  11. Stu, I think the TC removal is money well spent (after the initial hassle getting it working properly). As you know I never even fitted the RLTC but the car feels better without the stock TC as you know exactly where you stand without any electronics putting their size 9's where they aren't wanted. Brian, Yeah, I would be interested in a spin to see how it feels. Cheers, Phil
  12. Hi Brian, Sorry for the confusion, it wasn't the RLTC that caused the problem but the HKS Trac removal kit. To avoid the OD OFF light flashing I removed it. It's not such a big problem but I use the od off button a lot to change down to third when coming up to roundabouts etc. so not having it on the stick would not suit me. Looks good though and I'm sure many people will want it. Cheers,
  13. Had a similar problem on a V6 Mondeo, it was the traction control stuck on, the motor had seized and it wouldn't let me apply any throttle. It doesn't work quite the same way on a Supra but you could try pulling the TRAC fuse to see if it makes a difference. Cheers,
  14. They are clear RAV4 indicators, take about 10 seconds a side and available from any max power type shop. About £25. Maybe Justin has some? Cheers,
  15. Phil

    oil

    It refers to the 'weight' of the oil when cold and hot. Best bet for the Supra is a nice fully or semi-synthetic but not Mobil 1 0-50w as it's too thin. A common choice is Valvoline synpower 5-50w fully synth, you can get it from Shop! Cheers,
  16. You are joking surely? Buy a set of eibachs from Justin, they are around £180.
  17. I've got J spec calipers with CW Race pads and they are excellent. The wear is greater but I've done 2 track days and a lot of road miles and they still have some meat left, the standard pads don't seem to wear at all but then they don't work either. I read the previous posts with interest but would say that in the real world the CW race pads increase the braking ability of the car many, many times. The stock pads are dangerous in my opinion and a liability from high (track day) type speeds. Cheers,
  18. Is that out of the exhaust or the block :biggrin: Cheers
  19. You can start yours with the selector not in Park? I thought that couldn't be done??
  20. Having seen the gubbins that goes into it first hand, for far too long , I would be surprised if it could open or close quickly enough to do anything. I certainly can't tell the difference. It's Box Hill in a couple of weekends, if you are coming down Paul you can take it for a spin if you like as you will be better able to spot any difference 'back to back'. The beauty and the curse of the MkIV is that it is very civilised for such a monstrous car! Cheers,
  21. Having fitted the HKS trac removal kit a while back and sorted out the associated gremlins I can confidently say it has made no noticeable difference to the auto gearchanges - they are as smooth as ever. I almost wish they were a bit less smooth sometimes and a bit more dramatic for that 'warp speed' effect! Before I tricked the electronics they were all over the place though. Cheers, Phil
  22. The only caveat for Italien wheels seems to be delivery time from my experience. With my first Supra I ordered a set of Masitaly wheels and was promised 4-6 weeks. To cut a long story short I managed to get my deposit back when they hadn't turned up after 4 months (I had traded in the car with Tim by then for an Aerotop with 18"s!). They turned up another 2 months later and the shop rang and offered them to me at a good price so I put it on the list to see if anyone was interested but no joy so I declned. Cheers, Phil 'not a patient man' Duley
  23. Because it is dry sump it sits in two tanks in the front right wing and rear right wing and is pumped around the engine all the time. Apparently, because the oil pipe runs thru the r/h door sill the drivers side of the car gets much hotter than the passenger side when the oil is hot! Cheers,
  24. When I was looking at a 911 Turbo I said to the bloke that I change my oil every 4000 miles and he said "You won't with this" so I told him that of course I would because oil's cheap and engines are expensive, then he hit me with the £150 oil change bit and capacities! My face must have been a picture, like you say Martin - how the hell do you drain it? Cheers,
  25. Good point JB. I have 8.5 inch wheels all round and run 255's on the rear and 235's on the front. I may have to upgrade to 245's on the front next time though simply because my rims are very exposed at the front. Cheers,
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