Fitting ARP Extended Wheel Studs

I bought a set of these a while back for my rear wheels as I will be running an 8-10mm spacer and needed the extra stud length. Mine came from MVP but a lot of people sell them.

I’ve read a lot of different opinions about these things and problems with fitting them so I thought I’d post up my side of things as that might make life easier for other people fitting them.

A couple of things to bear in mind:

1. I think the ARP number for these is 1007715 but I'd need to double check the packet I threw away

2. The standard rear studs are 45mm long, these are more like 70mm long.

3. The studs need a minor modification to the shank area to make them fit reliably – this makes them press in like the Toyota studs and means they don’t need welding as suggested by Titan/PHR.

4. They can be fitted on the car, with no need to remove the hub, shorten the stud or drill a hole in the backplate.

First thing to cover is the slight modification needed to get these to fit correctly. Like all studs, these press into the hub and the anti rotation is provided by a male spline on the stud biting into the female on the hub. The standard studs measure up like this and you can see that the plain diameter shank next to the spline measures up at 13.7mm with the spline ranging from 14.08-14.18mm.

The ARP stud has a larger diameter on this plain shank that measures 13.93mm:

The important thing to note is that the female splined part in the hub measures 13.8-14.0mm and so the plain shank of the stud fouls on the female spline in the hub. If you go ahead and try to press (or pull using a wheel nut) this stud into place then the plain shank of the ARP stud will wipe out some of the female spline which can cause two problems:

1. The stud is a total £&%$! to press in as it is basically too big.

2. If you do press it in like this and destroy part of the female spline then the anti rotation properties of the spline will be partially lost and you may end up needing to weld them into place as suggested by Titan or PHR – just to stop the stud from turning when you torque up your wheel nut!

So I turned this plain shank diameter down to match the Toyota stud.

You can get someone at an engineering/machine shop to do this or you could do it using a pillar drill with a couple of files if you have the skill, patience and time and can measure the diameter accurately enough. Once it is done then the stud will sit into place properly (with the splined portions ready to be pressed into each other rather than standing off on the plain shank of the stud.

Without turning down plain shank the stud will not sit into the hub properly and stands off.

After turning down plain shank it will sit it properly, waiting for the splines to be pulled into each other:

So – now to move on to fitting them. They are too long to simply feed into place so I had to do a slight modification to the back plate. I had to orient the hub like this so that the larger diameter through hole lined up with this part of the hub and backplate.

Next I placed a drift through the hole and gave it some gentle - meduim hits to put a small dent in the thin backplate material. This creates a little bit more room to accommodate the extended stud length. Once I had given it a few taps and created a bulge of 1-2mm it looked like this from the back (not easy to see).

Once the old stud was drifted out, all that had to be done was feed the stud in carefully..

Rotate the hub until the stud starts to poke into the splined hole..

And then wiggle the hub back and forward and ease the stud through the hole..

Then pull it into place with your fingers and put on the washers and some oil on the threads ready to pull it through with a wheel nut.

Put the wheel nut on and start torquing the nut to pull the stud into place and keep doing this until they all sit in position.

I hope that's useful to someone.

Good write up Dan it will come in handy when i change mine

Last week I managed to shear three of the extended studs that came with my 20mm h&r spacers, this thread was invaluable as it helped me order a set of replacement studs using the dimensions you provided Dan, so thanks very much amigo

For info, the ARP studs are £8 each, £40 a hub's not great lol. I was able to get a local wheel place to order me some in from their supplier for £3 each. H&R also sell them separately for less than the arp ones. No machining required either as the shoulder didn't foul.

Hey

I need extended studs to fit a 20mm spacer , anybody know of an OEM stud fitment

Do any of these suit?

http://www.murraymotorsport.com/products?keywords=wheel+studs&x=8&y=19

Hey

 

I need extended studs to fit a 20mm spacer , anybody know of an OEM stud fitment

 

Do any of these suit?

 

http://www.murraymotorsport.com/products?keywords=wheel+studs&x=8&y=19

How many do you need?

I definitely have 5, and may have another 5

I need 10 for the rear axle

I need 10 for the rear axle

Ok I will check my garage and find them all, if not I will post the 5 to you anyway