snapped bolt while fitting 1st decat

was fitting my exhaust yesterday and everytghing was going fine until I came to the 3 bolts at the manifold

managed to get the tricky one loose without to much trouble...but one of the nuts was solida nd the stud snapped...anyone any suggestion how I get this sorted? Guessing it'll need to get retapped. Is the turbo elbow difficult to remove?

Is there much work involved in sorting this out?

Any info would be appreciated

cheers

I had this too.. drilled it all out and just used a nut and bolt, i think i was lucky with one of the lucky, easy to get to, bolts!

how much of the stud (bolt) is still there> or is it all sheared off

how much of the stud (bolt) is still there> or is it all sheared off

it looks about level with the 1st decat flange...so theres still quite alot in there

also the o2 sensor bolts rounded off so i'll need to get them with mole grips

is it the bit with the o2 sensor in the stud is snapped in. Dont know what its called not sure if it has a name. Lets call it clint eastwood (the bit with no name).

Anyway theres 3 bolts just above it loosen them and it will drop down. Make sure you remove the o2 sensor 1st. Also be careful when you take it out as the exhaust bypass valve will fall also.

Hope this helps matey.

is it the bit with the o2 sensor in the stud is snapped in. Dont know what its called not sure if it has a name. Lets call it clint eastwood (the bit with no name).

 

Anyway theres 3 bolts just above it loosen them and it will drop down. Make sure you remove the o2 sensor 1st. Also be careful when you take it out as the exhaust bypass valve will fall also.

Hope this helps matey.

it is one of the three bolts holding the 1st cat to the manifold...one has snapped inside

one of the studs where the O2 sensor connects to the 1st cat also broke but that won't be a problem as i can still remove the O2 sensor

is there much work involved in removing the turbo elbow(where the 1st decat connects onto)...as I think I may have to remove this in order to get the stud drilled out.

what else would i have to remove to get access?

would i have to be working from inside the engine bay or under the car...its quite hard to see exactly where the bolts holiding it on are

I remove the elbow and drill it out in the Bridgeport. You MAY be able to get it out with heat and a GOOD stud extractor, if there's enough left sticking out to grip, but if you work harden it and DON'T get it out it will make drilling it a nightmare.

I remove the elbow and drill it out in the Bridgeport. You MAY be able to get it out with heat and a GOOD stud extractor, if there's enough left sticking out to grip, but if you work harden it and DON'T get it out it will make drilling it a nightmare.

i will be able to get it re-tapped etc at work but i need to get it off first which im not sure exactly how i do this

What do you mean when you say 'remove the elbow and drill it out in the Bridgeport'? Chris?

the stud has snapped in such a way that its sitting level with the flange of the 1st cat...so there really is not much to grip onto. Or do you mean removing the 1st cat and then that will give me more to grip onto.

Going to see an enginnering place today to see what they think but reckon they will want the elbow off first

wire brush (spark plug brush is the best) on the rusted threads before you undo the bolt, works wonders, mine come off easy as anything after that as the threads are clean.

obviously no good to you as you've bust it, but remember for next time

Get the cat off, altogether first. Try heat (you'll need oxy / acetylene gear there, a blow lamps no use at all) and see if a stud extractor will get it out, hot. If not, remove the elbow and take it to a decent garage or machine shop. Curse why this is now your problem and how much easier life would be if you'd paid someone else to have the hassle

Get the cat off, altogether first. Try heat (you'll need oxy / acetylene gear there, a blow lamps no use at all) and see if a stud extractor will get it out, hot. If not, remove the elbow and take it to a decent garage or machine shop. Curse why this is now your problem and how much easier life would be if you'd paid someone else to have the hassle

Not sure exactly what oxy / acetylene gear is Chris.

Me and a friend are going to remove the elbow this weekend and I can get the stud drilled out and re-tapped at work. What do I need to remove in order to get the elbow off...do I need to be working from inside the engine bay and remove all the piping/heat shield etc so I can get access? Is it a big job to do all this?

I had the same thing happen to me. AFR duly replaced with them all with new Toyota studs, which are still available to order.

The elbow will unbolt from underneath the car. You need to remove the O2 sensor, a support bracket and the nuts holding it to the turbo stuff. I uses a crow's foot wrench on one of the nuts, but you can struggle with a short combination spanner. Oxy / acetylene = gas welding bottles and torch.

The elbow will unbolt from underneath the car. You need to remove the O2 sensor, a support bracket and the nuts holding it to the turbo stuff. I uses a crow's foot wrench on one of the nuts, but you can struggle with a short combination spanner. Oxy / acetylene = gas welding bottles and torch.

cheers for that...i thought i was going to have to start ripping stuff out the engine bay to get access

another thing...when i was driving home from work on friday there i wasn't even thinking and was going a bit hard on the by pass and then there was a sudden loss of power and a puff of smoke out the exhaust...then the boost gauge showed that it had hit just short of 1.3bar...there is no smoke now but the car hardly has any power at all. I have a restrictor ring etc I was going to fit when i was fitting the 1st decat and it also has the BCC fitted so its nothing to do with fuel cut. I hope I haven't fecked the turbos...what are your thoughts on this?

Baring in mind it was only at 1.3 bar for a few seconds...would this be enough to damage the turbos? I'm hoping that the extra pressure has blown the flanges apart where the stud is snapped and this is the cause for the loss of power...at least i hope

The elbow will unbolt from underneath the car. You need to remove the O2 sensor, a support bracket and the nuts holding it to the turbo stuff. I uses a crow's foot wrench on one of the nuts, but you can struggle with a short combination spanner. Oxy / acetylene = gas welding bottles and torch.

Also how many bolts hold on the elbow and are they easy to get to?

Just get the bloody spanners out, will be quicker and easier to drive up there and do it for you at this rate

another thing...when i was driving home from work on friday there i wasn't even thinking and was going a bit hard on the by pass and then there was a sudden loss of power and a puff of smoke out the exhaust...then the boost gauge showed that it had hit just short of 1.3bar...there is no smoke now but the car hardly has any power at all. I have a restrictor ring etc I was going to fit when i was fitting the 1st decat and it also has the BCC fitted so its nothing to do with fuel cut. I hope I haven't fecked the turbos...what are your thoughts on this?

 

Baring in mind it was only at 1.3 bar for a few seconds...would this be enough to damage the turbos? I'm hoping that the extra pressure has blown the flanges apart where the stud is snapped and this is the cause for the loss of power...at least i hope

Maybe fuel cut, I think most BCC's dont remove you fuel cut, they just fudge the map signal and move it higher up, atleast I think the thor unit does.

lol your prob right...it'll be off the first chnace i get

what about the previous post...any thoughts on that?

cheers for that...i thought i was going to have to start ripping stuff out the engine bay to get access

 

another thing...when i was driving home from work on friday there i wasn't even thinking and was going a bit hard on the by pass and then there was a sudden loss of power and a puff of smoke out the exhaust...then the boost gauge showed that it had hit just short of 1.3bar...there is no smoke now but the car hardly has any power at all. I have a restrictor ring etc I was going to fit when i was fitting the 1st decat and it also has the BCC fitted so its nothing to do with fuel cut. I hope I haven't fecked the turbos...what are your thoughts on this?

 

Baring in mind it was only at 1.3 bar for a few seconds...would this be enough to damage the turbos? I'm hoping that the extra pressure has blown the flanges apart where the stud is snapped and this is the cause for the loss of power...at least i hope

Baring in mind it was only at 1.3 bar for a few seconds...would this be enough to damage the turbos?

Very unlikely.

I'm hoping that the extra pressure has blown the flanges apart

Also how many bolts hold on the elbow and are they easy to get to

 

Have removed the 1st cat, and the bolts holding the turbo elbow to the manifold and the bracket that connects to the elbow. Everything seems to be removed but the damn thing isn't budging...is there anything else holing the turbo elbow to the manifold? Know there will obv be sealant etc holding it on but that shouldn't be causing this much resistance...its as if theres still a bolt on there?

found an extra bolt on there but don't have a clue how i'm going to get at it....looks like it would have to be from insude the engine bay but with a spanner but theres no room to get some leverage

Maybe fuel cut, I think most BCC's dont remove you fuel cut, they just fudge the map signal and move it higher up, atleast I think the thor unit does.

yeah i was thinking it might be fuel cut...its a greddy bcc...does anyone have one of these and know what boost it allows you to go to until it initiates fuel cut?

is this is the problem then why is there still no power? is there a way of resetting it? disconnect the battery for 10mins etc?

yeah i was thinking it might be fuel cut...its a greddy bcc...does anyone have one of these and know what boost it allows you to go to until it initiates fuel cut?

 

is this is the problem then why is there still no power? is there a way of resetting it? disconnect the battery for 10mins etc?

The Greddy is an adjustable BCC there is a little adjustable screw under the badge on the top of the unit. The instructions on how to adjust it are in the Greddy manual I think.

If I recall correctly out the box it allows up to 1 bar but that could be wrong.

The Greddy is an adjustable BCC there is a little adjustable screw under the badge on the top of the unit. The instructions on how to adjust it are in the instructions I think.

 

If I recall correctly out the box it allows up to 1 bar but that could be wrong.

the instructions were in japanese...but i set it to just under 4.3v which is correct for a 93.

not sure what that would let you boost upto though before it initiated fuel cut

it is what allows more than 1bar of boost

I know what the BCC is for fella

yeah just under 4.3v is about right so should allow boost to 1.15/1.2 bar but mine used to cut if it went over 1.3!!

If the exhaust is not fixed to the elbow via all three studs you may get a situation where you get less resistance and allow the boost to creep up hence the fuel cut. Have you experienced fuel cut before? it feels like your heads going through the windscreen but after a few second the ECU should allow full boost again.