Fitting Single Advice?

Hi Guys

Just starting to fit my PHR stage 1 single kit and just thought i would ask anyone who has done it any pitfalls or stuff to look out for etc. I have done loads of searchs, got a workshop manual and printed off instructions etc. Seems fairly straight forward, and i've allowed 3 full days todo it.

Any advice would be great

Cheers

Rob

I am sure someone wrote a "In Hindsight what would you have done differently" thread somewhere.....

Cheers mate i will have another search about

Check out Nic Import Pimp for an Emanage group buy mate.

Respect for trying it yourself to. Might be an idea to pm RobAce as he did his own BL t61 kit. He may have some tips for you.

Getting your stock turbos off will be the biggest bastard by far!

Yeah, getting the stock ones off can be a pain. Once you've done that you're home and dry. There are various techniques, some people take them both off in one go. I took the front one off first - takes a bit longer but is easier I reckon.

Best advice I have is make sure you have the right tools before you start. You're going to want a nice big breaker bar, and a good set of wobble bar extensions (Machine Mart do a great set pretty cheap), good set of sockets and do yourself a favour and get some of the ratchet spanners from Halfords. Can't remember the sizes you'll need now, but IIRC it's 10mm, 12mm, 13mm and 14mm. Oh, and get a set of torx spanners too, for undoing studs. Then just take your time.

10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm. Also long sockets in all these bar the 17mm would be handy. And a knuckle joint. A long, medium, and short extension bar for your mid-sized ratchet. A big ratchet and a small ones too. And God's own Halfords tool, the swivel head ratchet spanner set.

Big and little flat blade screw drivers. A cheapie angle grinder for the manifold studs. Plenty of WD40 for the exhaust nuts.

A set of Allen keys. Thin nose and flat nose pliers. Oh, and cutty ones too.

Patience, grim determination, and a willingness to not give in.

Bandages

-Ian

(that's for getting the stock stuff off - if you are fitting an American kit the rules go out the window as they use a mix of imperial and metric stuff in odd sizes, the bastards )

with all these tools, sounds cheaper to pay someone.

good luck mate, keep us posted on your progress

Took me 1.5 days to remove stock setup and .5 day to fit the single, all done in a weekend

You will prob lose alot of skin off your knuckles too.

Personally I'd fit the electronics first...test.

Then fit the single...and test.

Then fit the fueling upgrades, map and test.

Nah, spam it all on in one go Just make sure your car is working 100% before doing anything

The tools last a bit longer than the one job They are an investment and the ones I listed will rush you about £100. Barg.

-Ian

Cheers guys tbh my car very is much a hobby and for me rebuilding it is part of the fun may be its just me! I have a large snap on tool kit (if you excuse the expression) as I’ve been building different cars for a few years. It seems fairly straight forward so far, got the car on ramps as well which is making things a bit easier. I've been documenting it as I’ve been going along to make a bit of guide together just so people can see what involved

On another note should be ready for mapping fairly shortly and obviously I can really do that myself I have been quoted 400 pounds does that sound about right, that’s using a greddy ultimate and 650cc injectors

Will update you tomorrow with progress Cheers

Just thought I would give an update have a bit of a false start the other week a minor family problem. Anyway though i would have a go today, I managed to get the turbo off in a couple of hours, I know what you guys meant by being a bit tricky I’m glad I bought a new set of racket spanners!

Just a couple of quick questions?

The kit I’ve got has a HKS GT 60mm wastegate with an adjusting screw on the top. Which way do i need to turn this to open the wastegate 0.8bar or less. As I’m running 440cc injectors and I don’t want to max them out! Really this is a very short term solution as i have a set of PE 650cc injectors coming on Tuesday. Also there are no gaskets on the exhaust flanges are they required?

Thanks Guys

I used all new gaskets on mine, but not sure what others have done. Just seemed like a good idea as if they decided to go later i didn't really wanna be mucking about again.

Can't really help with the wastegate, but i thought it was the actuall spring inside that dictated what pressure to open at.

I used all new gaskets on mine, but not sure what others have done. Just seemed like a good idea as if they decided to go later i didn't really wanna be mucking about again.

 

Can't really help with the wastegate, but i thought it was the actuall spring inside that dictated what pressure to open at.

Yeah i thought that the wastegate spring was 0.8bar but thought if i could set it lower just as a temp measure to be on the safe side

There gaskets for the turbo and manifold but the down pipe is a v-band flange and i thought there would have been a gasket but there isn't one. But i was thinking about using some high temp gasket glue.

Is there an easy way to spin the engine over without starting so i can prime the turbo?

Ah for the back of the hot side to the downpipe?? No you don't need a gasket there. Just tighten the V-Band clamp up as much as possible.

Nice one It is from the hot side to down pipe then down pipe to the mid pipe and they are all v-band flanges. Cheers matey. Will post some pictures when i'm done

Hi Guys just a few quick questions on the Pictures I’ve uploaded.

Pic1:

Arrow 1 is the crankcase breather pipe, can this be made to face upwards to allow the fitment of the small K&N breather on?

Arrow 2 this pipe goes the black pressure canister on the far right hand side; can this just be blocked off?

Pic2:

Arrow 1 can this be blocked off?

Thanks guys

Rob

pic 1 arrow 1: yes you can twist this around. Just get a pair of grips on it and give it some.

Pic 1 arrow 2: Yes you can just block that off, or remove the charcoal cannister completely, or hook it into the intake between the filter and turbo (IIRC) to make it work like stock.

Pic 2 arrow 1: No you can't block that off. That's where the air for the idle control solenoid (the bit it leads to) comes from. Most people put another K&N filter on there, or you can hook it into the intake between the filter and turbo.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=19417&highlight=single+build

try this

we need him back

pic 1 arrow 1: yes you can twist this around. Just get a pair of grips on it and give it some.

Pic 1 arrow 2: Yes you can just block that off, or remove the charcoal cannister completely, or hook it into the intake between the filter and turbo (IIRC) to make it work like stock.

Pic 2 arrow 1: No you can't block that off. That's where the air for the idle control solenoid (the bit it leads to) comes from. Most people put another K&N filter on there, or you can hook it into the intake between the filter and turbo.

Pic one, K&N filter here is very risky, If you lose a piston, your car will go up in flames! Connect this to your intake tube (ideally with braided pipe)

Thanks guys that clear that up, the problem is that i've seen a few different setups were Pic1 Arrow 1: has the K&N. The problem is that i thought that the kit would have a nipple on the intake tube to connect to but it does'nt May have to use another K&N until i can get a tube with a nipple on.

Thanks again for the advice

Rob

Thanks guys that clear that up, the problem is that i've seen a few different setups were Pic1 Arrow 1: has the K&N. The problem is that i thought that the kit would have a nipple on the intake tube to connect to but it does'nt May have to use another K&N until i can get a tube with a nipple on.

 

Thanks again for the advice

 

Rob

Or just vent to atmosphere. Pipe it away from the hot area to a temp catch can or below the engine.

Ok i've hit real problem, the oil feed return pipe does'nt want to fit how do you with a PHR kit over come fitting it to the block return as it seems to be fouled by steering rack and Hydraulic pipe etc? Any pictures would be great thanks in advance!