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Oil writeup by Steve "K14 SUP"


Ian C
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Maybe we could get a table of different oils and all their viscosity, VI, flash point, pour point, ash content, zinc content, and API classifications? Would probably be a PITA to create such a document but would surely be beneficial and not only to our group!

I'm probably saying that in the hope that there'll be a definitive oil we should all use - and I'll be really disappointed when the table arrives! :D

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I have all the data on numerous oils but flashpoint, pourpoint, viscosity at 100degC and VI Index actually tell you nothing of interest.

 

What you really need to know is the HTHS number and Noak volatility % as they give the best clues to the actual quality of the basestock used.

 

Unfortunaltely for obvious reasons many oil companies do not publish these figures and are reluctant to give them.........it just makes me suspicious of their claims!

 

What I can say is that over the last 2 years we have tested more than 50 oils in the lab and have been mightely dissapointed over the results compared to the claims. American oils seem to fare worse but there are many European oils that have less than a decent percentage of the good stuff in them.

 

By far the best quality oils that we have tested are the Silkolene Pro S and Pro R plus the Motul 300V but to be fair they are race oils that can be used on the street and therefore contain extremely high quality basestocks and high ester content.

 

Believe me when I say oil is not oil I sincerely mean it, don't be fooled by the fancy marketing and the word synthetic, in 90% of the cases we have seen, it's a much abused and used word!

 

Cheers

Simon

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Agreed, the High Temp High Shear test gives a good indication of the oil's ability to cope under the most stressful conditions. These are similar to the conditions the cam & follower generate & the more an oil can hold its viscosity under this punishment, the better the quality. Also the NOAK is good to indicate how the oil will thicken due to evaporative loss during extreme service. Basically, the higher the HTHS number for the hot weight of the oil the better, and the lower the NOAK % the better.

 

But add in all the rest of the information & it all gives an indication of the quality of the oil. If its all we've got to go by then it all helps.

 

Other than that, there's recommendation by the Oilman :D

 

As Simon says (I'm sure that's a game??) there's a lot of supposed synthetics out there that are pure c**p compared to the best. You get what you pay for, just be sure you're paying for the best!

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You know your stuff matey, spot on and well explained.

 

You'll not find may with higher HTHS and lower Noack numbers than the Silkolene Pro or the Motul 300V, very similar brews with a almost identical chemical traces.

 

Cheers

Simon

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You know your stuff matey, spot on and well explained.

 

You'll not find may with higher HTHS and lower Noack numbers than the Silkolene Pro or the Motul 300V, very similar brews with a almost identical chemical traces.

 

Cheers

Simon

 

Simon, how does Amsoil compare with these two?...

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