Replacing rear brake pads

I've never been near the brakes before but the rear pads need changed.

I've had a search and I'm probably more confused than before, although it is frequently referred to as an easy job.

I have managed to change spark plugs, fit a restrictor ring, fit fuel pump and a few other basic things.

Should I:

1 - take it to the garage at the end of the road and pay a small amount of cash to get it done

2 - try it myself to gain experience and get that warm feeling of DIY satisfaction

The job is an absolute doddle, go the DIY route - should take 20 minutes each side and that includes removing and replacing the wheels !!

Anyone fancy giving me a basic run-through for J-spec pads

Originally posted by Grazer

Anyone fancy giving me a basic run-through for J-spec pads

from an old thread

Guide from memory

loosen wheels nuts

Jack up

Remove wheel

loosen both the bolts that are facing you on the caliper. Remove the uppermost bolt and pivot the upper caliper assembly away towards the rear (i think)

Loosen Brake fluid cap, check at this point the level of your fluid. If its at normal/full level and you are replacing very worn out pads then the likelyhood is that you will need to remove some fluid after changing a couple corners (syringe / pipet is best for this)

Remove old pads if they don't drop out, and then push the piston back, which can take a bit of force but shouldn't cause major problems.

Slot in the new pads and pivot the caliper back into original position slot the bolt back in and secure.

Remember to pump the brake pedal when finished and check the final fluid level etc.

i think that's it, worked for me and i too am a 'technical buffoon'

Cheers

I was getting confused about removing bolts and UK-spec vs J-spec - that sounds pretty straightforward

Just a couple of points:

The caliper pin bolts don't face you, they point away from you (into the wheelarch).

You will need a 17mm open ended spanner and a 14mm socket or ring spanner to loosen the pins.

You will need to transfer the shims from the old pads to the new ones. This is easy as they just unclip. Apply a fresh smear of copper grease to the back of the pad before you clip on the shims.

Do the pin bolts back up to a firm "hand tight". I did mine to 30Nm with a torque wrench but that was purely my own preference.

One pad had a noise maker to indicate when it is wearing low. It looks like an oversized spring clip on one corner. This goes at the bottom on the inside pad (not sure if it really matters but that is where it went on mine).

Don't forget to replace the anti-rattle springs when you have put the pads back in!

It really is a doddle. Allow about 2 hours if you are doing it on your own.

Hi guys

My pads are also running out on the rear!

Can anyone advise what sort of pads to replace the old ones with?

Shall I just use the standard Toyota spec ones or is it worth investing in some 'better' make of pads?? Any difference?

Thanks

Nick

P.S - I own a NA Jap 96 car

I think you will be fitting my fast road pads? If so I suggest you leave off the shims, as they give a markedly spongier pedal. It's very unlikely you will get brake noise with my fast road pads, even without the anti squeaql shims fitted, and you WILL get a better pedal feel wwithout the shims. Follow the instructions someone posted, they are excellent. Use a broad bladed large screwdriver or small jemmy to lever the piston back in, lever against the back a single old pad, left in for this purpose, rather than risk marking the discs surface. Loosely refit the caliper bolts whilst you lever, so nothing is likely to slip and you smash your face into the rear wing The pads will be with you tomorrow and will need signing for. Cheers, HTH.

Hi Chris

I also need a set of rear brake pads (see post above).

How much are you selling them for? Are they a marked improvement over the originals?

Thanks

Nick

front and rear here, if u could oblige a nice xmas deal 4 us!!

I think my pads on back have just started making the noise, ill be looking at car today. Its sort of a creek/ small scrap everytime the wheel rotates once.

Also it is louder when i reverse. Im pretty sure not a wheel bearing had one go before and there no knocking or it gettin worse at high speed. It just turns into a much quicker same noise.

Sound like the pads?

Ok - I'm trying to do this over the weekend and have a couple of questions.

I take it these are the shims that don't necessarily need to go back on:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/gcsimpson/2004_12_brakes_small01.JPG

What are these called, and do they do anything meaningful:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/gcsimpson/2004_12_brakes_small02.JPG

The discs look a bit crap - quite a lot of rust in the centre and the edges - is this ok or should I be thinking about new discs?

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/gcsimpson/2004_12_brakes_small06.JPG

how the hell u get your nuts off!!! mine arent budging! im sat here in wd40!!

Well, if your as stupid as me you might be turning them the wrong way for 10minutes

Once I realised my error they came off no probs

Yes, bin the shims, and you bin the anti rattle wire hairpin clips too. Discs don't look TOO bad, they should be OK. Hard to tell from a photo though.

Cheers Chris.

Last question (for today!)

After pushing the piston in using the prising with a screwdriver technique - there was what looked like a rubber seal unevenly protruding from the caliper - is that normal?? (sorry - no pic)

mine pretruded when pushed in fully, mate. not unevenly till i almost pinched the rubber!

That'll be the dirt seal, jsut gently push it back into the recess using a blunt screwdriver. Often they are torn, if so in theory it should be replaced, but they are a bit of a whatsit to do in situ.