Patrick_Devlin Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 How easy is it to replace J Spec brake pads, both front and rear? I've just looked at the manual from mkiv.com and it seems straight forward enough. But I'd like to get some info from folk here who do them. Please bear in mind that I am a technical buffoon when it comes to things like this, but want to learn! How long would it take? What is the likelihood of me loosing the spring clips or breaking them? What are the chances of me having the car with no brakes sitting in the car park for a week? What would someone charge to do it for me? All help gratefully appreciated. Ta guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 Very straightforward. Only problem can be getting the caliper's off as the studs can be a b&stard to loosen if you're using axle stands, difficult to get the leverage. Make sure you have some releasing fluid and a good extension. Other than that you just push the piston right back into the caliper and remove the pads. Make sure you're not tired and in a rush and don't twist the brake pipe when you put the caliper back on. My, er, mate did that once... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 Originally posted by Nick Very straightforward. Only problem can be getting the caliper's off as the studs can be a b&stard to loosen if you're using axle stands, difficult to get the leverage. Make sure you have some releasing fluid and a good extension Did you undo the sliding pins or the main caliper to upright bolts? The latter should be done up to a bazillion Newton-meters, but the sliding pins are little more than hand tight. BIggest problem I had was pushing the piston back with my bare hands (grrrr). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick_Devlin Posted February 27, 2004 Author Share Posted February 27, 2004 Originally posted by Nick you just push the piston right back into the caliper and remove the pads...don't twist the brake pipe when you put the caliper back on. Thanks for the advice, but even this is stretching my understanding I guess I'll have to take the wheel off and get my hands dirty to familiarise myself with the brake assembly. Good news is that I've just been quoted £25 inc VAT labour to change front pads That sounds like a bargain! Darren, how many zeros does a Bazillion have? Not sure my torque wrench does that, its a bit old! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 Originally posted by Darren Blake Did you undo the sliding pins or the main caliper to upright bolts? The latter should be done up to a bazillion Newton-meters, but the sliding pins are little more than hand tight. BIggest problem I had was pushing the piston back with my bare hands (grrrr). Caliper to upright bolts. Won't have this problem any more, the Brembo's have brackets and the nuts are much eaiser to get at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 Originally posted by Patrick_Devlin Good news is that I've just been quoted £25 inc VAT labour to change front pads That sounds like a bargain! should be an indication to you of how little is involved! I did mine for the first time a month or so ago. Guide from memory loosen wheels nuts Jack up Remove wheel loosen the bolts Darren mentions, x2 which were easy to undo. Move caliper away from disk and the remaining fixed part of the system and place on a upturned bucket or something similar that will stop the weigh bearing on the brake line. Loosen Brake fluid cap, check at this point the level of your fluid. If its at normal/full level and you are replacing very worn out pads then the likelyhood is that you will need to remove some fluid after changing a couple corners (syringe / pipet is best for this) Remove old pads if they don't drop out, and then push the piston back, which can take a bit of force but shouldn't cause major problems. Slot in the new pads and lift the caliper back into original position slot the bolts back in and secure. Remember to pump the brake pedal when finished and check the final fluid level etc. i think that's it, worked for me and i too am a 'technical buffoon' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 Originally posted by Nick Caliper to upright bolts. Jeez - No wonder you had problems!! All you have to do completely undo the lower sliding pin bolt, and loosen the top one, then swivel the caliper away from the disc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 Be prepared for the sliding pins to be seized up though. Often happens as the boots split with age. Prepare and get a caliper refurb kit from Toyota, just in case. You'll need to buy some copper slip grease as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 Originally posted by Darren Blake Jeez - No wonder you had problems!! All you have to do completely undo the lower sliding pin bolt, and loosen the top one, then swivel the caliper away from the disc. ah even easier! no unturned bucket or similar required:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick_Devlin Posted February 27, 2004 Author Share Posted February 27, 2004 Scooter, thanks, good detail. Rob, thats what I'm affraid of... the unplanned for happening, I'd have some form of mechanical version of a blue screen of death! How much are these caliper refurb kits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 Originally posted by Darren Blake Jeez - No wonder you had problems!! All you have to do completely undo the lower sliding pin bolt, and loosen the top one, then swivel the caliper away from the disc. There's an easy way and a hard way and it looks like I did it the hard way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 Patrick, you could get Nick's (five years newer?) callipers on the cheap and learn all about the joys of bleeding brakes as well:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick_Devlin Posted February 27, 2004 Author Share Posted February 27, 2004 Good idea, practice on the living room carpet I think I'll take it slowly. But... what about putting in braided lines, what are we talking about then? Does that involve bleeding the whole brake system and then charging it all up again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Need4Speed Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 But... what about putting in braided lines, what are we talking about then? Does that involve bleeding the whole brake system and then charging it all up again? Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkyJawa Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 Fitted the Uks and braided hoses to mine. Hardest part was getting the front disk off, and screwing the braided hoses on true! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Need4Speed Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 More kills than Harold Shipman! Very poor taste Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 Originally posted by Darren Blake Jeez - No wonder you had problems!! All you have to do completely undo the lower sliding pin bolt, and loosen the top one, then swivel the caliper away from the disc. As both pins are swivel there is no need at all to loosen the bolt on the lower one, just to remove the top one, tha caliper will then pivot on the pin itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 Originally posted by Chris Wilson As both pins are swivel there is no need at all to loosen the bolt on the lower one, just to remove the top one, tha caliper will then pivot on the pin itself. LOL. If we keep shaving steps off this job, the pads will soon be changing themselves I think I loosened the other bolt so the sliding pin gaiter didn't twist when I rotated the caliper. Or something... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkyJawa Posted February 28, 2004 Share Posted February 28, 2004 Originally posted by John Packham Very poor taste Sorry John, its just a bit of banter as a result of another thread, I'll remove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geezabloke Posted February 28, 2004 Share Posted February 28, 2004 First time i did mine was a pig.......purley because the pins were siezed........actually managed to bend one getting it out. From experience i would have a spare set of pins when changing again just in case? The rears were even worse as could not get behind to hammer the pins forward......a local garage ended up chiseling the front dome off the knocking through from the front. All new were greased before refitting...... Well hope it may help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Need4Speed Posted February 28, 2004 Share Posted February 28, 2004 I just take off thye calipers - only takes a minute - 2 bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick_Devlin Posted March 1, 2004 Author Share Posted March 1, 2004 Originally posted by Chris Wilson As both pins are swivel there is no need at all to loosen the bolt on the lower one, just to remove the top one, tha caliper will then pivot on the pin itself. Chris, Did you get my email last Friday? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 1, 2004 Share Posted March 1, 2004 Originally posted by Patrick_Devlin Chris, Did you get my email last Friday? NO, not unless it was via a PM, which i just can't find time to process these days. please re send to: [email protected] Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick_Devlin Posted March 1, 2004 Author Share Posted March 1, 2004 Chris, Bugger. Resent email at 11:50 this morning. Can PM details if required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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