V8 Autobox no drive

As a lot of you know I've been working on my V8 setup for a very long time now Sunny and I installed the engine and box together quite a while ago now and I've been doing the wiring myself. I thought I had the wiring complete as the engine was firing up and idling nicely however I still am not able to engage drive or reverse. I have checked the autos fluid and all seems good. I've asked this question on lextreme and the guys there reckoned there had been a problem with the Torque converter bolts being left out but I've not remove the box from the engine at all so everything in there should be intact. There are two wires not connected however but as my notes I've downloaded are for converting an na 5 speed to V8 there's a plug greyed out on the notes it is IJ2 the tow wires on here I think look important are pin 3 a yellow wire which the description is 'to kd @ ecu (A/T)' the other one is pin 12 which is grey yellow I think and the description is 'to M @ ecu (A/T)'.

However there is a guy on lextreme saying the box should have drive without power to the solenoids in the box so what do you guys reckon where the hell have I gone wrong lol

Thanks for the help Scott-tt

You should still have 1st, 3rd, and 4th (O/D) with the solenoids disconnected.

Autobox_Troubleshooting.pdf

Could it be the linkage from the shifter to the box. I know on the 1jz conversions you have to use the Soarer one.

I've tried even disconnecting the shifter and moving the linkage into gears when in park the propshaft will lock in position. If I move te linkage to any other gear it just does nothing. So should it still engage gears without using the shifter at all and simply using the linkage arm that attaches to the side of the box?

Hi Scott

I have *just* finished getting my head around the wiring for the auto box (well, I hope I have) and I have determined the following for the two wires you mentioned:

JZA80 connector IJ2, Pin 3 (Yellow) is from the Kick Down switch and goes to the ECU - the Soarer equivalent is IJ2, Pin 17 (Blue).

JZA80 connector IJ2, Pin 12 (Green with Yellow stripe) is from the Manu button and goes to the ECU - the Soarer equivalent is IK1, Pin 21 (Green with Orange stripe)

I am yet to test this, as I am about to start soldering my adaptor together, but if the above does work/help, I would be VERY greateful if you could let me know!

Am I right in thinking even if I've made mistakes elsewhere in the wiring the auto box doesn't really need the ecu and should still engage while manually moving the shift linkage arm if this is the case then I might be screwed

Hi Scott

 

I have *just* finished getting my head around the wiring for the auto box (well, I hope I have) and I have determined the following for the two wires you mentioned:

 

JZA80 connector IJ2, Pin 3 (Yellow) is from the Kick Down switch and goes to the ECU - the Soarer equivalent is IJ2, Pin 17 (Blue).

JZA80 connector IJ2, Pin 12 (Green with Yellow stripe) is from the Manu button and goes to the ECU - the Soarer equivalent is IK1, Pin 21 (Green with Orange stripe)

 

I am yet to test this, as I am about to start soldering my adaptor together, but if the above does work/help, I would be VERY greateful if you could let me know!

That makes sense thanks mate that will explain 'm' and 'kd' I'll get them connected up. I just need to figure out why I'm not getting drive as people are saying the box should still have drive without input from the ecu to the solenoids

Mine was a fluid issue, I'd drained the box completely down, replaced the filter etc and upon fire up I had no gears but as soon as the new fluid circulated it was ok....I was very worried for the five or so minutes.

Probably no help....sorry.

I wonder if it could be a fluid issue the level shows being good on the dipstick while cold but is it possible for fluid to drain back down into the sump and just sit there until it resirculates I've never ran the car from more than 30 seconds since its been in the car also the lines coming from the box to the cooler were open while the engine was being put in and moved about so if some has ran out could it be low enough to not engage if the dipstick shows ok when cold?

The only correct way to read the gearbox level is when hot with engine running, if it were me and all else was failing then I would fire it up and let it tick over until warm probably moving the shifter through all gears a good few times and see what happens and what the fluid level reads when warm.

I'll pick up some fluid this week and get back on it Saturday I do have a spare auto box if all else fails but it is a supra tt auto box so I don't know how compatible it will be but if all else fails I do have a backup plan at least lol

Thanks to everybody who got back to me if things go well at the weekend I'll try and do a video and some pics I really should have done a build thread

The T.T. box could be used.

Using the bellhousing, torque-converter and valve-body from your current transmission (N/A pre facelift valve-body is best) and using a T.T. auto transmission crossmember and front section of prop, all is plug & play.

Well it was fluid thanks for the advice guys she lives!!!!!!!!

Thought so you're welcome, glad its sorted.

Excellent! Glad it's alive and well

Great news Scott, let's set a weekend aside to get this ready for the SCS?

Great news Scott, let's set a weekend aside to get this ready for the SCS?

I could definitely use some help Sunny there's a lot to do yet I've been sorting out the rev gauge today I think I've pretty much figured that out now too

Okay bud, I'll fire round after work, looking forward to seeing this move

Okay bud, I'll fire round after work, looking forward to seeing this move

What time were you thinking just as Sams going to the gym for a wee while its just for Rebecca I can drop her off at my mums the supra up at my garage anyway which is just round the corner