Car won't start

That goes outside my comfort zone as well unfortunately

RAC?

Yeah would be well outside mine also.

Do you not know anyone local that could take a peek before getting the RAC involved?

Will they come to see your car at your house?

Scott =op

Got home start so should be fine.

In the meantime I'm gonna get these comps fitted. Girlfriend lost the head unit passcode so can't even test they're working!

RAC came, and went. Said the pump should be drawing about 3-4 amps but was only getting around 1 and thus wasn't shooting the fuel as efficiently as it should. Apparently this could be down to a dodgy wire somewhere causing resistance or just a knackered fuel pump itself....

Walbro time then

Well I have given up, I am going to have to get it trailered to a AFR to have a look at it, RAC guy said the fuel pump isn't putting enough fuel into the engine so that's why it's not starting, I'm still not sure if it's the pump itself or just the fuel pump relay? should I get an auto electrician to check it out before I get it trailered to the garage?

Nell, I have a spare J spec TT fuel pump you can try. Only takes half an hour to fit and should answer the question whether its the pump or wiring.

Personally my money's on the pump.

Thank you that would be very helpfull

I am waiting to hear from Matt to know when he can fit me in, are you anywhere near crawley?

Nell

I work near Crawley. Not working until Saturday though. Will you need it before saturday??

I'm not too sure when Matt can fit me in, he said he was very booked up so it may not be till next week anyway, just waiting for him to get back to me

Yeah it clicks and turns over fine. Just doesn't start

Have you done any wiring for the stereo or speakers?

could be that a wiring error is draining the battery.

Have you done any wiring for the stereo or speakers?

 

could be that a wiring error is draining the battery.

I was under the impression that a dead battery would mean that the car wouldn't even turn over...

I'm sure the wiring is fine. Only cut the plug off of the - and + wires and linked them to the crossover. I'd be very surprised if that was the cause of the problem.

Either something is causing resistance to the pump (be it the immob or something else to do with the electronics) or the pump itself is knackered.

Kranz, thanks for coming to look at the car tomorrow. Really is very nice of you.

u say its turning over faster that it did might be cam belt? hope not tho

it could be broken cam belt if its turning over quick or fuel pump but sounds very doubtfull why either should just break like that. if you have been playing with wires then it will prob be a dodgey connection you have knocked or a blown fuse

Had a peek at this yesterday.

The fuel pump is fine, as are the relays and fuses in the main fuse box by the battery.

The car will start & run fine if voltage is supplied to the connector on top of the tank. It'll also run fine if a jumper wire is stuck in the +B to FP connections of the diagnostic port on the engine (i.e. voltage fed to the pump all the time the ignition is on).

Otherwise the pump isn't getting any voltage I didn't check fuse 5 in the second fuse box in the passenger compartment (driver's side??). Could that be it?

Does the NA have a fuel pump computer as the TT has???

Anyway, very nice to meet you Nell

Any ideas anyone, this is desperate now

My guess is that the jumper wire I fitted in the diagnostic port as a temporary fix has now knackered something else?? Or whatever the original problem is has got worse and affected that fix somehow.

My thoughts are that the +B to FP jumper wire in the diagnostic socket on the engine has knackered the FP wire as its not big enough to carry the 9+ amps that the pump draws??

My guess is that the jumper wire I fitted in the diagnostic port as a temporary fix has now knackered something else?? Or whatever the original problem is has got worse and affected that fix somehow.

 

My thoughts are that the +B to FP jumper wire in the diagnostic socket on the engine has knackered the FP wire as its not big enough to carry the 9+ amps that the pump draws??

Problem solved...

You can NOT use +B and the FP jumper long term or for anything more than a very quick test. It is meant as an output not a place to feed power to.

The issue with this car was surprisingly simply once I had checked the FP wire and the +B wire.

During the fitting of the rear speakers, the loom which runs up to the fuel ecu had been unplugged and not been plugged back in properly, so as Peter hit a bump or something of that nature, it dropped out slightly breaking the connection on the master FP wire (blue and orange).

+B and FP in the engine bay are of a very thin gauge and cannot handle the 6A's or so that the FP required.

But all is good and the fuel sender issue was sorted as well.