hadyn Posted September 15, 2007 Share Posted September 15, 2007 Hello all, I've just got meself one of these: Am I right in presuming that the green wire goes into the speed signal of the ecu and the white wire goes back into the harness? I presume black and red are earth and ignition live? Whats the best wires to splice into for that? Cig lighter/clock etc? Also is the speed signal pinout the same on the j-spec TT ecu as in this diagram? http://www.plxdevices.com/ECUDatabase/Toyota/TOY_SUP_93_98.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadyn Posted September 15, 2007 Author Share Posted September 15, 2007 and a bump for tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadyn Posted September 16, 2007 Author Share Posted September 16, 2007 can anyone help me with this? Heres a diagram from Greddy if this helps: http://greddy.com/img/PHP/products/pdf/683.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatSport Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 courtesy of `Bondango` ...Marty.... pm him for any more info.. http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/2943/bccat8.jpg "So the Speed sensor wire is cut... White wire joins the wire which heads away from ecu to sensor. Green joins the wire which goes to ECU. You can use ANY switched 12v feed and earth, you dont have to tap the ECU wires for power" "ive attached a rough diagram i did for you. Its shows the ECU terminals. And which pins you need to work with (remember you need to imagine the loom as thats what you will be cutting into.. I think the Speed sensor wire is Pink with brown stripe on the N/A As i said you can use any 12v and earth which is switched at ignition, but ive also labeled which pins are used for Switched power and earth on the ECU We ALWAYS remove the ECU, then work from inside the car with the loom pulled as far forward as possible. Its a bitch and awkward especially when Soldering or crimping wires" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadyn Posted September 16, 2007 Author Share Posted September 16, 2007 Am I OK to use connector blocks or scotch locks etc rather than soldering? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 i wouldnt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadyn Posted September 16, 2007 Author Share Posted September 16, 2007 Ive used them before when tapping into ecu's speed signal wires for blitz power meter ids with no issues... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 then use them, what you asking for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadyn Posted September 16, 2007 Author Share Posted September 16, 2007 Oh yeah the toyota 3 is for the autobox and the toyota 2 is for the manual isnt it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatSport Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 Oh yeah the toyota 3 is for the autobox and the toyota 2 is for the manual isnt it? that`a what i always wanted to find out, i have the `toyota 3` and mines the manual N/A?? Anyone know which is which? (haven`t tried fitting yet btw) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadyn Posted September 16, 2007 Author Share Posted September 16, 2007 Guy who gave me this has a GZ auto, so I presume its for an auto? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted September 16, 2007 Share Posted September 16, 2007 I wouldn't (didn't) bother removing the ECU; soldering that pink wire is a piece if wee wee - very accesible compared to most of the wires inside a Supra! I'd solder though, and reinforce with a crimp. Don't forget to make sure you tape up any new wires so that they get into/out of the ECU cover without rubbing or stretching or being crushed (i.e. route them sensibly and use a bit of tape to make sure they have abit of slack but will stay put - common sense really!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadyn Posted April 19, 2009 Author Share Posted April 19, 2009 Oh yeah the toyota 3 is for the autobox and the toyota 2 is for the manual isnt it? Can anyone confirm which is for the autobox and manual? Type 3 or type 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadyn Posted April 20, 2009 Author Share Posted April 20, 2009 bumpage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondango Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 These old SLCC's are a bit of a bitch to work out The T(x) didnt neccesarily refer to the transmission i.e. auto or manual, it also refered to the extra options. Some of the Old greddy SLCC's had optional outputs to trigger the Profec A/B boost controllers and different cut rates selectable via the dip switches. http://www.greddy.com/img/PHP/products/pdf/809.pdf The only Speed cut limiter i would recommend on an Auto is the Thor or HKS SLD Type II/T6 as most simple Speed cut controllers use 4 wires (be it HKS or Greddy) they simply clamp the speed signal going to the ECU. May Work ok on manuals but on autos, its a different Story...The hks Type T6 for the aristo or Supra has 12 wires in total which ensures all the components which use speed signal 2 from the ecu are not effected. I know you want to remove the speed limiter, but Surely you want the car to read in MPH? if so, you may aswell buy the speedM8 or Thor units which do both? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadyn Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 I know you want to remove the speed limiter, but Surely you want the car to read in MPH? if so, you may aswell buy the speedM8 or Thor units which do both? Strangely enough the speedo and odo on my car read in miles? The speedo dial reads upto 180mph and is calibrated correctly (not a 120mph stuck on face for a car still reading in kms). Despite this the 112mph limiter still remains? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 You can buy units that will only convert the speedo (and/or odo, depending on how you wish to fit them), and likewise you can buy units that only delimit the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadyn Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 This one might need a trip to Thor. Only want to get it delimited for a possible trip to the Ring this year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZtwin Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 My Type A GReddy SLC has a black,red,yellow,blue,and brown wire. Anyone have a diagram how to fit this?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZtwin Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Anyone?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZtwin Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Someone MUST have one of these installed!! no?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondango Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 there ya go SCC.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZtwin Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Thanks man, but I already have this. I just really need to know the pin out numbers to use and in which pattern the 8 little switches are used for my 93 MKIV TT Supra RZ 6 spd. there ya go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZtwin Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Has anyone installed one of these Greedy Delimiter's in their J-Spec? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadyn Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 I did and it worked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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