juanchan Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 Firstly, thanks to JohnK for giving me a couple of hours of his time tonight (on his day off work) to try and help me change my front disks and pads. Secondly, anyone got a bigger hammer than we did?! The disks have clearly not been changed recently and have rusted up good and proper. There are 2 pins that slot through each caliper that need to be removed before going anywhere. These are well and truly rusted to the calipers and refused to budge. Has anyone changed their disks recently and encountered this issue? If so, how did you remove these pins without destroying them? If the only way is through mindless destruction, would anyone know the part number for them so I can get some from Mr T? I've got no cables for my phone or camera, so I can't post any pics of the pins in question sorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 These can be a pig if there siezed in there, normally a good squirt with some penatrating lube and a small drift they should move, or try gripping them in the middle with mole grips so you can twist them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juanchan Posted April 17, 2007 Author Share Posted April 17, 2007 May have to invest in some molegrips then....! We tried some WD40, but that made no apparant difference! It's probably going to be easier to remove them by destroying them and replace them with fresh ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 try and get some end cutting pliers like these? and then on the front mushroom/doomed head try and bite down behind the head of the caliper bolt.... This can eek it out a few mm, then you can lever it against the caliper with the pliers and get a few more........if it gets stuck a bit tap it back in and try again............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juanchan Posted April 17, 2007 Author Share Posted April 17, 2007 try and get some end cutting pliers like these? and then on the front mushroom/doomed head try and bite down behind the head of the caliper bolt.... This can eek it out a few mm, then you can lever it against the caliper with the pliers and get a few more........if it gets stuck a bit tap it back in and try again............ That sounds like a plan! The only issue I can see is that the pins literally won't budge, even a mm or 2, so the mushroom/domed ends are pretty much rusted up against the calipers. I'll be having another crack at the later in the week I hope, so I shall try any ideas out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 I had to cut mine out on a pillar drill the other week. Pig of a job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra-mike1984 Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 Hi, I had to use a set of Molegrips on my pins after applying loads of wd40 n wiggle them about until they either moved or snapped. When they snapped i cud remove half of the pin, and then used a 6mm dia bolt as a 'punch' to remove the rest via the help of a hammer. My pins had rusted themselves well and truly to the caliper so it woz the only way i cud remove them. The pins cost £1.50 each from Toyota and I had to replace them all. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 You can (and plenty of people do...) get into a RIGHT mess if you don't have the right gear. The calipers need removing and the pins grinding flush, then use a milling machine to accurately centre mark and then drill out the pins from each side. You CAN do it freehand if you are GOOD with a drill, but you can also effectively scrap the calipers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mk47 Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 i had the same problem about a week back.. used a hammer and a thin pointy iron thing to bang them out.. worked fine after a few hard taps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 Once you peen the end over the fun starts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uk-rich Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 i used a chisel to remove the heads and then drilled them out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juanchan Posted April 18, 2007 Author Share Posted April 18, 2007 You can (and plenty of people do...) get into a RIGHT mess if you don't have the right gear. The calipers need removing and the pins grinding flush, then use a milling machine to accurately centre mark and then drill out the pins from each side. You CAN do it freehand if you are GOOD with a drill, but you can also effectively scrap the calipers. No worries for us beginners then?! If only you lived down south mate, I'd probably just ask you to do them for me Cheers for the responses guys. I've just ordered some new pins, so if it all goes wrong on Friday afternoon and I have to break them to remove them, no worries(ish). I've also just read the other thread that's been started today about changing the pads, so I won't be undoing the wrong bolts hopefully! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 Give Stuart Sandy at Toyoda Tech (Fareham) a call when he's back off holiday next week. He'll sort you out. Can't remember the number, but it'll listed in about a million threads if you search. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juanchan Posted April 18, 2007 Author Share Posted April 18, 2007 Give Stuart Sandy at Toyoda Tech (Fareham) a call when he's back off holiday next week. He'll sort you out. Can't remember the number, but it'll listed in about a million threads if you search. If I can't get them sorted then Toyodatech are gonna be my first port of call. He did my cambelt/aux belt recently and he seemed pretty knowledgeable when I spoke to him. I'd prefer to have them changed before going to Pod though as the disks on it at the moment have seem far better days! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juanchan Posted April 22, 2007 Author Share Posted April 22, 2007 These can be a pig if there siezed in there, normally a good squirt with some penatrating lube and a small drift they should move, or try gripping them in the middle with mole grips so you can twist them. i used a chisel to remove the heads and then drilled them out Again, thanks to JohnK for sorting me out here for the entirety of Friday afternoon. We tried the molegrip method and ended up shearing one of the pins, they were that rusted up! In the end a large hammer used with force, removing the ends of them, and John being pretty nifty with a drill we got them out. Can't complain at the £1.50 price tag of new ones either. If I could get photos up, I'd post some of the old disks to show the attrocious condition they were in and how small the contact areas actually being used by the inside pads were. It stops so quickly now compared to previously! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 Nice one! I did my fronts a couple of weeks ago, and it was about as much of a pig as it was for you. Looked at my rears today, and they might be even worse!!! A job to start Saturday morning I think, when my mate with the pillar drill is already expecting me. Not a job to start Sunday afternoon with the car needed for work on Monday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juanchan Posted April 22, 2007 Author Share Posted April 22, 2007 Nice one! I did my fronts a couple of weeks ago, and it was about as much of a pig as it was for you. Looked at my rears today, and they might be even worse!!! A job to start Saturday morning I think, when my mate with the pillar drill is already expecting me. Not a job to start Sunday afternoon with the car needed for work on Monday. Given the condition of the fronts, I think I need to check my rears too, just in case. I hope they're ok given that the rear disks are more expensive than fronts! Very nice car you've got there. Looks awesome and sounds fantastic. One of the best subtly modded Supras there yesterday! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 Given the condition of the fronts, I think I need to check my rears too, just in case. I hope they're ok given that the rear disks are more expensive than fronts! Get out of here! They CAN'T be more expensive - they're half the width and 20mm less diameter! Very nice car you've got there. Looks awesome and sounds fantastic. One of the best subtly modded Supras there yesterday! Thanks dude! I guess it's a street sleeper - visually it's just the Blitz and 285s that give anything away With all the mileage and track abuse I give it, fancy paint and bodykits would just wilt, so I haven't bothered so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juanchan Posted April 22, 2007 Author Share Posted April 22, 2007 Get out of here! They CAN'T be more expensive - they're half the width and 20mm less diameter! Thanks dude! I guess it's a street sleeper - visually it's just the Blitz and 285s that give anything away With all the mileage and track abuse I give it, fancy paint and bodykits would just wilt, so I haven't bothered so far. I could be wrong on the disk pricing, but I'm fairly certain that the rears are more pricey purely because they produce less of them. I hope that you're right on that one though! I prefer the stock look to aftermarket bodykits personally, so it's the sleepers that appeal to me. If I ever decide to venture to the dark side and mod mine, it'll be mechanical mods and nothing too serious. That said, John is always trying to spend my money on this decat pipe, that FCD, these guages. It's probably only a matter of time before I cave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 Ah, you know you want to! I'm getting _all_ the gauges in so I can see what's what before going for any more power mods. Definitely need to sort the running gear though, so I can spank the Scoobys on track Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 The rears have the handbrake shoe drum cast into them, and another machining operation, hence they can be more expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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