cookci Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 the coolant from my radiator pushes its way into the expansion tank overfilling it? the radiator is left with air at the top. I either have to refill the radiator or leave it running with the rad cap off. This happening? please help. i fear the worst... although the heaters blow warm and there is no leak in the cockpit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 Knackered Rad Cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookci Posted February 28, 2007 Author Share Posted February 28, 2007 ive replaced it with a TRD rad cap from nic. also tried it with another one (from andrew page... cost £3). sorry i should of mentioned this before hand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookci Posted February 28, 2007 Author Share Posted February 28, 2007 although to be fair ive not given the £3 rad cap a good chance. what should i try next? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soop Dogg Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 Could be early signs of Head Gasket failure I'm afraid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookci Posted February 28, 2007 Author Share Posted February 28, 2007 how much we talking for someone that know supras to replace it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookci Posted February 28, 2007 Author Share Posted February 28, 2007 i drew a line on the expansion tank to where id filled it... then a week later its gone up by an inch and the radiator is down by an inch... to double check ive just pumped the expansion tank liquid back into the radiator! im not missing any? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranz Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 An air lock in the coolant system???? Use a poweraid (sp) drink bottle and top the coolant up while running at idle with the heater on full. Give the top hose a squeeze now and then and make sure it gets to proper operating temp. Use the poweraid bottle as a header tank and keep it about 1/4 filled so the rad is totally full. Also park on a slope & make sure the front of the car is at the high end to encourage trapped air to move uphill to the rad. Worth a try for 20 mins work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soop Dogg Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 When you say it is overfilling the expansion tank, is it actually causing it to overflow at any time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookci Posted February 28, 2007 Author Share Posted February 28, 2007 i guess if i dont interveine i think it would overflow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECK Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 i would flush the coolant from the car with some sort of radiator flush (forte)etc then drain the coolant system down and replace the coolant with fresh stuff it may just be a slight blockage oh and remember to use toyota forlife coolant the gaskets dont like antifreeze!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookci Posted March 1, 2007 Author Share Posted March 1, 2007 the coolant is nice and clean as i changed it about 3 months ago. its been fine up until a couple of weeks ago though... have given it another bleed as suggested k14 sup. seems there was alot of air in the system... will post back after a day of 2 with results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra ST Myster Posted March 2, 2007 Share Posted March 2, 2007 have you checked that your whole rad is the same temp, as i had this and turned out to be a knackered rad as i could feel half it was stone cold, replaced it with a flyidyne in the end, sorted and never over heated since.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toyotasuprauk Posted March 2, 2007 Share Posted March 2, 2007 I've had/having overheating problems in the summer with the air con on, and parts of my rad are stone cold. Is this not a blockage that can be flushed out? Or am I likely to need a new rad? Sorry to sort of hijack your thread, but defiantly check all over the rad to make sure its the same temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminator Posted March 2, 2007 Share Posted March 2, 2007 When are you checking fluid level? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranz Posted March 3, 2007 Share Posted March 3, 2007 I've had/having overheating problems in the summer with the air con on, and parts of my rad are stone cold. Is this not a blockage that can be flushed out? Or am I likely to need a new rad? Sorry to sort of hijack your thread, but defiantly check all over the rad to make sure its the same temperature. What parts are stone cold??? Have you ever used one of those *SHUDDER* rad weld products?? What coolant are you running/have you previously run?? What's the colour inside the rad (rusty/creamy/clean)?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toyotasuprauk Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 What parts are stone cold??? Have you ever used one of those *SHUDDER* rad weld products?? What coolant are you running/have you previously run?? What's the colour inside the rad (rusty/creamy/clean)?? I've not used a rad weld type product, and use Toyota Red coolant. I've just ordered some more ready for the flush. If I remember rightly there are cold patch's around the rad towards the bottom I believe. Maybe I should use a rad flush product before the change? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranz Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 . If I remember rightly there are cold patch's around the rad towards the bottom I believe. Sometimes there are cooler patches towards the bottom as that's where the cooled coolant flows out & there are higher flow areas across the radiator than others.... but it shouldn't be much different?? Try a twin pack flushing thing. Halfrauds do one that I tried the other week. No problems. Try and reverse flush the rad too by stuffing the hosepipe in the bottom pipe of the rad, sealing it in there and then giving it full blast. The twin pack flushing stuff takes a while as you need to run then flush then add part 1 then fill then run then flush then fill and flush then add part 2 than fill and flush ......... you get the idea! How did the bleeding work??? Has it stopped burping coolant out?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toyotasuprauk Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 Thanks for the advice K14 don’t want to hijack cookci’s thread too much it’s just having similar issues I thought the information could be related. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Intrinsic Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/overheating/index.html Air in radiator, but expansion reservoir full Coolant leak Too much air in system after fluid change Bad radiator cap Bad seal between radiator cap and expansion reservoir Failed head gasket When the gasket goes, typically the first thing that happens is that combustion chamber gases are pumped into the water jacket. You will see this as bubbles in the expansion reservoir. This will quickly lead to low coolant level in the engine, and overheating at idle, even if the fan comes on, since the water pump can't move the coolant around properly any more. If the engine starts to overheat at idle, or in heavy traffic, and the gauge goes down when you rev it, the coolant is low. The symptoms are similar to a failed rad cap. If you top up the rad, replace the rad cap and the problem persists, the head gasket is definitely questionable. To confirm this, a garage can apply a pressure test (NOT a "compression test"), where air is blown into each cylinder in turn until the technician sees bubbles in the radiator. If no bubbles are seen, the problem is elsewhere, such as an external leak. This can be accompanied by an expansion reservoir level that is much higher than normal, and which does not go down once the engine cools off. If you choose to simply add fluid and ignore the issue, eventually oil and coolant will begin mixing together, and coolant will get sucked into the combustion chamber. Ignoring this is a good way to toast a perfectly good engine. Get it fixed early and there will be no further issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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