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J-spec brake hoses V. UK spec brake hoses


Paul Booth
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I was supposed to take the original hoses with me when I went 'up North' to my sister-in-law's pearl wedding 'do', but I forgot them in our disordered, late, departure from home (hoses in the trunk of the wrong vehicle). DOH!

I know this makes me gormless and I accept the lable.

 

I wrapped them in polythene and posted them off the following week. I haven't chased them as I went over to the Forest of Dean last week-end and that was the last thing on my mind.

 

Tomorrow a.m. I start my first day at 'The Beeb' and I expect to be somewhat busy and so I may not get time to pursue it until Tuesday or Wednesday.

 

It's the holiday time of year and with my job move too, I just had more personal things to think about. Sorry.

 

I will sort it by the end of the week, promise.

 

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Nearly there.

Apparently the suaging kit for the stainless end-fittings will not be up-and-running until the end of this month so these prices are near approximates.

 

Please note, I have specified the hoses I want which are to the very highest spec., someone else may want to price a lower spec. hose.

 

The specification is:

1. 100% stainless steel, end-to-end (including end-fittings), rather than the anodised Aluminium or plated mild steel you'll get on other supplier's hoses.

2. Crimped (suaged) end-fittings, NOT the re-usable type which are typically supplied on 3rd party braided hoses.

3. Clear spiral-wrap covering. This protects against the problem braided hoses have when the braid gets damaged by a flying stone and the Teflon bursts.

 

The price for a set of Supra hoses, if the ends were re-usable stainless but all other parameters remain the same, would be £63-88 +VAT.

 

They have to correct these prices once the crimping suaging tool comes on line but nominally this will add £5-£10, i.e., £68-£73 +VAT per set.

 

There will be a discount (to be negotiated by Justin/John) for an order containing multiple sets of hoses.

 

Mine are on order.

 

 

Afterthought: You can get coloured spiral wrap.

 

 

 

(Edited by Paul Booth at 2:52 pm on Aug. 9, 2001)

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I work for BBC Technology: Product Development (commercial).

Recruited to turn BBC technology patents into commercial propositions which can be sold to other companies.

 

Review internal technology and developments, identify potential markets, address legalities of company owned by government (wot a load of b*****ks this causes), engage market research companies, produce business plan, identify potential partners, negotiate contracts.

 

In my spare time I go to sleep in my straight jacket.

 

 

Oh yeah, sorry, Broadcasting House.

 

 

 

(Edited by Paul Booth at 3:15 pm on Aug. 9, 2001)

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Do you want to see if we can get a group purchase going and get the costs down. I want a full set, 2 rear sets could be considered a single full set. If someone else wants a set we're well on the way to some serious discount.

I'm not looking to make any money on this, I'll leave that to Shop! and I don't want to step on anyone's toes.

I sorta expected to order mine and let Shop! do the discounting for the greater good.

 

Initially, I felt a little embarrassed in using my personal relationship with the supplier but we've got passed that now.

 

So, if it's understood by all that if I front a group purchase it will be an open book deal with everyone getting a copy of the paperwork, I will act as intermediary; this one time.

 

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Paul.....

 

Thanks for your concern but what I think we should do is, as you say, anyone who wants a set pools together this one time and then it's up to you to negotiate with SHOP!! (or whoever, if at all).

 

In any event, one of the rear sets I require is for Justin and the other is for me. So I'm not trying to sell them on to anyone and make a profit or anything.

 

Yours,

J  

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Quote: from Ash on 7:38 pm on Aug. 9, 2001[br]

 

Paul.....

 

Thanks for your concern but what I think we should do is, as you say, anyone who wants a set pools together this one time and then it's up to you to negotiate with SHOP!! (or whoever, if at all).

 

In any event, one of the rear sets I require is for Justin and the other is for me. So I'm not trying to sell them on to anyone and make a profit or anything.

 

Yours,

J  

 

Ian Hamer (MD) has returned to his home in San Francisco until the end of the month and I've been talking to his son Ross as proxy.

 

I'll wait until Ian returns to confirm a discount price for this purchase (Ian and I go back further), so that'll be about the time the suaging tool comes on line, end August, or 3 weeks for those without a calendar.

 

Beyond that, John/Justin will need to negotiate any financial relationship directly with Ian. They'll possibly get a better deal than I negotiate, I don't like using a personal realtionship to screw friends to the ground; Justin won't be limited by that constraint.

I will simply take their standard volume discount. OK, I will look for the highest price break they can afford, but I trust Ian to tell me what that is truthfully.

 

I didn't ask what the lead time is but it should mean delivery first or second week in September.

 

Sorry this took so long. Bad combination of forgetting hoses, going for a vacation, etc. As it turns out, the stainless suaging tool won't be operational until end Aug so it doesn't seem quite so bad in the end.

 

Right now I've got mine, Ash, Gavin and Matt on the list.

 

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Quote: from Eric Kasir on 10:30 pm on Aug. 9, 2001[br]What would be the difference with these hoses, as opposed to say the ones that Leon supplies? ie advantages.

 

Eric

 

Have you read through the thread? If not, you should, with particular attention to the issues around stone damage and salt attack.

 

I happen to have a set of hoses, supplied by Leon as it happens, which came on a set of UK brakes I purchased. I'm not a hose expert so I'm not going to make judgements on the end-fittings. They definitely don't have any protection from stone damage.

 

I'm not going to repeat a long thread but to summarise: plated end fittings, especially if they're the common re-usable type (crimped end-fittings are not normally used on racing applications as they're inspected daily) are vulnerable to attack from road salt.

 

I ended up with this spec. because my friend refused to supply me with plated and/or re-usable end fittings for the sake of my life, even though he could have supplied me (or anyone else) with them for around £50 +VAT.

 

It's not about whether they're good quality, it's more about whether you check them regularly. Aluminium end fittings will corrode under attack from road salt in weeks. I don't want to go under my car in Winter every 2 weeks. Mild steel are better but there's still electrolytic action taking place with issues around the strength being in the braiding, unlike standard hoses.

 

Someone made the point that standard hoses have mild steel end fittings; but then their strength comes in the rubber hoses, which are bonded and I was getting fed up by then as all I wanted to know what was best for me. So I let that passed (it's their life after all).

 

Some people have said they would rather save the £10 per set and go with the non-plastic coated re-usable end-fitting type as supplied by various sources.

Personally, I remember what my advanced motorcycle instructor said when we were looking at new helmets "if you've got a $10 head, buy a $10 helmet".

 

No one is forcing anyone to do anything. we hammered this out. I am happy if I fit these hoses at around £10-£15 more than the hoses commonly available today. I am fitting an almost indestructable solution for road use  not just track.

 

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I too do not want to get into any "whose hoses are best" argument. But I agree with Paul that one basically pays your money and takes your choice.

 

Some may feel Paul is being a little pedantic about the spec. However, I think we would all agree that choice of materials, particularly in this application, is *doubly* important.

 

Consider that these pipes must not only be 100% reliable: they must be 100% reliable under the very worst of winter road-going conditions, year after year, over tens of thousands of miles.

 

Now and again, a particular argument is put across to me in defence of using some component or other. The actual component does tend to differ, but the basic argument is largely the same and that is, "Well, xx race car uses the same on the track, so it must be good for my road car."

 

Not always.

 

With brake fittings, track cars tend to use the re-usable type so they *can* be re-used, i.e. following a collision. Plus, if weight is a concern, ally fittings can be used.

 

In theory, there is no difference between a re-usable fitting and a crimp fitting in the sense of providing a reliable seal. Both perform the same function but in different ways.

 

However, questions come to mind such as: What if a sealing ring starts working loose due to the pinch bolt not having been torqued to the correct setting?

 

I mean, once a pipe is crimped, provided it is sealed and crimped correctly in the first place, then it's crimped for good. Nothing whatever can possibly work loose. Which, to my mind, is precisely the requirement for a road car.  

 

On the other hand, race cars tend to be inspected and maintained to a *much* higher standard than road-going cars. If the odd pinch-bolt works itself a bit loose then it will soon be discovered.

 

I remember having a discussion last year with one of the engineers at AP: reason being, I rather liked the idea of fitting their water-cooled 8-pot brakes to my MKIV. Okay, that was a bit OTT but imagine the kudos of having water-cooled 8 pot callipers!

 

Anyhow, what this guy didn't know about brakes wasn't worth knowing. He was a veritable mine of information. He told me straight that I must NOT fit the 8-pots to my car. But why? I asked. I just *have* to have them; they'll look totally wicked; I don't care if they are OTT; that's precisely *why* I want them... nope, he said, they must not be fitted. Not under any circumstances must these brakes be fitted to a road-going car. They are for race use only.    

 

The reason?

 

Well, several actually. The coating on the calipers (or rather lack of it) was unsuitable for road use. The seals, the piston material. In fact, just about everything about these brakes were severely unsuited for road use.

 

The basic cause, as was explained, had everything to do with winter, water & salt.  

 

So I, for one, think Paul is absolutely correct in his thinking.  

 

Yours,

J

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  • 1 month later...

hi group a newbie here :)

 

how can you tell you have the upgraded version brakes

 

i have a jap spec 96 supra tt auto

 

i was talking to glen warren at cleethorpes car show

he has the gold supra in the revs magazine

 

he was telling me

that the upgraded brakes have supra wrote on the calipers

i have it on my brakes too

 

is there anyother ways you can tell which brakes you have

and the size of discs

 

i was looking round for some new discs and pads

 

i seen brembo do a direct replacement disc for $192 each they are gold

 

also what is a good make pad to use

 

you cant beat good stopping power

 

would like to upgrade to larger discs

 

can you keep the standard toyota calipers with larger discs

 

i have seen porsche 380mm discs on a supra will that change all your stud pattern too ?

 

 

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Regardless of what's 'wrote' on the callipers, standard j-spec brakes are sliding callipers and the j-spec upgrade/uk-spec are 4-pot at the front and twin pot at the rear.

 

It depends on what you want to do as to which pads you select but with the better brakes I would be cautious about using aggressive pads and destroying the disks unnecessarily.

If you're going to track events there are some good pads available from suppliers to this BBS. If you're not, stick with good quality standard pads (IMO).

 

If you're going to get into DIY custom conversions, your on your own and all I ask is that you don't come racing up behind me.

 

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