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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Help! My Aristo Just Won't Go


beefweasal
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Hi guys, i'm a brand new member and i have been pointed in your direction for some much needed help. I've got a 1995 MK1 Aristo, with the 2JZ-GTE engine i believe you guys are familiar with! it's in for some paintwork, and the bodyshop called me to say she won't start:( I've been over to have a look at it and i'm not sure where to start. i can't find anyone who knows much about the Aristo, but i'm lead to believe it's basically an uncool supra, with the same ECU and running gear hope someone can help!

The first thing i did was remove the fuel filler cap, and she gave me a reassuring hiss. i think that's a good thing? I've removed the front coil pack, and checked that we have a spark, so i think the ignition system is o.k. I've also checked all the fuses, and the feed directly to the fuel pump. All is fine. I've tried delivering 12 volts direct to the pump, and she still didn't want to start!!! the tank is reading three quarters, but to check i removed the sender unit. sure enough it's got £60 worth of optimax slopping around in it. The last thing i did was undo the fuel pressure regulator in the front of the injector rail, on cranking i got a 'healthy' spurt. i'm guessing the pressures there, but i'm not an expert, so i can't be sure! no idea what to try next. As far as i'm aware, there is no immobiliser of any type on the car, just remote locking built into the key.

If i have fuel and spark, but no go what do i check next. If anyone can shed any light i'd really appreciate it! gotta go back tommorow and have another look :search:

Cheers guys. Phill

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If you have fuel and spark, it would sound like your starter motor is shagged if its not turning over.

 

Interesting theory, but does anyone know if you can bump start a car if the starter motor is knackered? after all if you have the car moving whilst in gear, you are effectively turning the engine over without the starter motor...

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hi guys, she turns over a treat. no problems with inhibitor switch, just won't fire. i stuck my arm up one of the twin powerflow 4" pipes and it smelt of fuel. i just can't figure it. how do i reset the ECU? sounds like a plan!!!

 

You can definately bump start a car with a knackered starter motor. it will do the same job. often frees up the starter motor at the same time too.

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if the engine is turning over, and you can smell fuel out the downpipe, it sounds like your sparkplugs could be soaked with fuel. the lads at the body shop probably had the foot on the gas while starting her up :D

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sounds possible, thanks. is it possible to flood these engines? the car first didn't start yesterday morning. would it still be flooded now? if so do you know how i could drain it? it's allways started first time, on the button for me. really appreciate your help OSSO.

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I've never had any experiences or heard of any experiences with supra's with flooded engines. If it happens to be flooded, and you've left it over night then try cranking the engine for 30 seconds, you may find that once one cylinder has fired, the others will slowly follow suit. just avoid pumping the accelerator before and during starting up the car, or you'll probably flood it again...

 

I found this on the AA website this morning, download the audio clip, sound familiar?

 

 

Immobiliser, Flooded Engine or Ignition Problem

(petrol engines only)

Immobiliser audio clip (right click and save as)

File size: 955Kb

Download time: 2min 19sec at 56Kb/s

Sound:

Engine cranks at normal speed, but doesn't start.

Probable fault:

For petrol engines, the most common causes are flooding (too much petrol entering the cylinders) or no spark at the spark plugs.

Other simple symptoms to look for:

Watch the dashboard lights. A flashing key symbol indicates an immobiliser problem – check the manufacturer's handbook for the correct starting procedure. A strong smell of petrol from under the bonnet is a sign that flooding is the likely cause.

Possible cause:

A cold engine needs extra petrol to start, but too much petrol will mean there is not enough air for it to ignite. A car due for a service may suffer from this problem. In damp weather, moisture on the spark plug leads can stop the ignition system working. A car which has been started when cold, then turned off within a minute or so will often suffer from flooding the next time you try to start it.

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Hi guys! Problem Solved. I went back down to the paintshop today, feeling quite negative about getting my ARISTO going. She cranked the same as yesterday, so I disconnected the battery for half an hour as resetting the ECU had been suggested. After staring at the engine for another 20 minutes, trying to convince myself I knew what I was doing, I followed the instructions on how to access the fault codes through the diagnostics port under the bonnet. I found it easiest to run a long loop of cable with a push switch in it into the car. That way I could link the terminals E1 and TE1 when I could see the MIL on the dash by pushing the switch. The light flashed twice a second, which when referenced on the table means ‘NO FAULT’. I started to sweat a bit more. So, back to basics. I got a can of easystart,( which was rusty around the bottom as it hadn’t left the garage shelf since I owned my 1973 mini 1000 8 years ago). And sprayed it directly into the air intake. Nothing. Not a sausage. After removing the coilpack and checking for a spark on cylinder no.1, I thought I’d check for fuel in the cylinder. It was soaked and I couldn’t understand why I had fuel, spark, ECU and No GO. There was one thing left. Check the plug I’d just removed. Sure enough, after cleaning it up and putting it back in, up she fired, with the BLITZ air intake trying to suck in various tools, my tea, and anything in close vicinity.

 

 

Just goes to show Check the basics first! I’m still grinning, and feel very clever indeed.

 

Thanks for everyones help and suggestions, I really appreciate it. I’ll be a regular to this site!:D

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